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Image-Transfer

Technique for Metal

Use image-transfer solution to add

photocopies to your metal jewelry.

by Sherri Haab

The panels of this bracelet are decorated

with 3 ⁄ 4 x 7 ⁄ 8 -in. (19 x 22 mm) image

transfers of copyright-free pictures.

decal-transfer paper at my local copy

center, I knew I’d have to find a different

approach to achieving my goal of adding

images to metal clay and other metal surfaces.

My failed attempts motivated me to keep

searching for a better method.

Eventually, I stumbled upon just the right

solution — a water-based transfer-agent

solution that could be used with a certain type

of laser copy paper. I experimented with the

solution and this paper until I developed a

technique to successfully transfer photocopied

images onto metal clay.

My technique works with copies of your own

photographs, artwork, or copyright-free art.

The resulting durable image looks as though it’s

printed directly on the metal’s surface.

any form without permission from the publisher.

www.A r t J ew e l r y M a g . c o m

WORKSONMETALANDMETALCLAY

A fter jamming two photocopiers with

Before you start

materials

ITS laser copy paper

Fired metal clay piece with a flat surface,

or metal sheet

Image Transfer Solution

■

Select high-contrast images (i.e., they have well-defined areas of dark and

light) that are sharply focused with crisp lines.

■

TIP: Use the “mirror” setting on the photocopier to make

copies that will have the same orientation as the original

after they are transferred. This is particularly important if

you are copying text!

tools & supplies

Brass brush

Wet/dry sandpaper: 600 grit

Soft cotton cloth

Paintbrush: flat tip

Hair dryer (optional)

Oven, toaster oven, or craft heat tool

Wet/dry polishing paper: 1200 grit

Liver of sulfur (optional)

Renaissance wax (optional)

■

Use either a color or black-and-white toner-based photocopier to make copies

onto Image Transfer Solution (ITS) laser copy paper. Ink-jet copies do not work

with this process!

The copy paper you need for this project is a little thicker than average copy

paper. You may need to set the photocopier on its “thicker” paper setting to

prevent paper jams.

Practice this transfer technique on scrap metal to get a feel for the process.

■

suppliers

Image Transfer Solution, ITS laser

copy paper (www.sherrihaab.com,

www.pmcsupply.com)

Craft heat tool (local craft stores)

Sandpaper, polishing paper

(Rio Grande, 800.545.6566,

www.riogrande.com)

Renaissance wax

(Restoration Products, 772.219.0436,

www.restorationproduct.com)

■

1 Prepare the metal’s surface

■

Images adhere better to a surface that is

flat and slightly rough. Rub a dry brass

brush over the area of the metal where

you’ll place your image.

Use 600-grit sandpaper to remove all

dirt and oils from the image area of the

metal and to give the surface tooth.

This area shouldn’t have any shiny

spots. Rinse the metal with water to

remove the sandpaper dust, and then

dry the metal with a soft cloth.

www.A r t J ew e l r y M a g . c o m

■

Transfer the image

Cut your photocopied image to match

the dimensions of the image area of

your metal. Brush an even layer (about

1 mm thick) of Image Transfer Solution

onto the image area of your metal.

While the solution is still wet, proceed

to the next step.

Press your photocopy image-side down

onto the wet solution. Use your fingers

to carefully apply pressure to the paper,

pressing from the center of the paper

outward to the edges to remove any

air bubbles. The paper should be in full

contact with the metal to achieve a

good transfer.

Remove excess solution from the back of

the paper and from the paper’s edges,

using the corner of a damp paper towel.

Next, you need to heat-set the image

to make a durable transfer. Place the metal

in a preheated oven (or toaster oven) set to

325°F (163°C), and bake for 30 minutes.

NOTE: Excess solution left on the back of

the paper will make the paper more

difficult to remove later. Also, excess

solution on the metal will act as a resist to

any patina you might want to add later.

NOTE: As an alternative to using an oven,

place the assembly on a heat-resistant

surface and use a heat gun (craft heat tool)

to cure the piece for about 2 minutes.

Allow the paper to dry completely. You

can either let it dry overnight or use a hair

dryer to speed up the process.

IMPORTANT: Allow the piece to cool

completely before you do the next step!

Soak the cooled assembly in water for

about 10 minutes. Then remove the

assembly from the water and use your

fingers to gently rub the paper off,

working from the center outward. Dip

the assembly in water and use your

fingernails to scrape away any remain-

ing paper, but be careful not to remove

the edges of the image.

After you remove the paper, a thin layer

of paper fibers will remain, leaving a

white film over your image. Working

underwater (I’ve removed the assembly

from the water to show this step), use

a piece of 1200-grit wet/dry abrasive

polishing paper to remove the remain-

ing paper fibers. Don’t rub too hard or

sand too long, or you could begin to

remove some of your image. If you

have difficulty with this step, see

“Troubleshooting Tips,” page 4 .

www.A r t J ew e l r y M a g . c o m

3 Finish your piece

tips

To successfully transfer an

image to metal, make sure to:

•

Use toner-based copies instead of

ink-jet copies.

Rough up the surface of your

metal, and sand it to remove

dirt and oils before you transfer

your image.

Apply a thick enough layer of

transfer solution to the metal.

If you brush on only a very thin

layer, the image will not transfer to

the metal properly.

Press the paper into the wet

solution so that the paper makes

complete contact with the surface

of the metal.

Heat-set the image according to

the project instructions, and be

sure to allow the heat-set assem-

bly to cool completely before you

attempt to remove the copy paper.

•

Dry the surface of your piece with a soft

cotton cloth. If desired, add a liver of

sulfur patina to the metal according to

the manufacturer’s instructions. Rinse

and dry the piece.

Whether or not you patinate your piece

with liver of sulfur, you need to seal the

image. Either use the cloth to apply a

light coat of Renaissance wax, or apply

a coat of transfer solution.

•

Sherri Haab is a

best-selling craft

author who has

published more

than 22 books.

She’s also a

certified metal

clay instructor

who leads numerous craft and

jewelry-making workshops interna-

tionally. Haab has released DVDs on

working with both metal clay and

resin and has appeared on several

television programs (HGTV, DIY, and

PBS). She lives with her family in

Springville, Utah. You can contact

her through her Web site,

www.sherrihaab.com.

What if...

The paper won’t come off?

Excess transfer solution probably

dried to the back of your paper. If

you can’t remove the paper, see

the next suggestion.

You’re not satisfied with the result

of your image transfer? No problem.

Start over. Simply use 600-grit

wet/dry sandpaper to wet-sand

the image off the surface of

your metal.

The liver of sulfur solution left a

spotty patina?

Excess transfer solution has dried

on the surface of the metal and

acted as a resist when you added

your patina.

See the previous suggestion to

learn how to remove your image.

Then, be careful to remove all

excess transfer solution before

you heat-set your image.

Or, remove your unwanted image

and then add the liver of sulfur

patina to the metal before you

transfer your new image. Rough

up and clean the image area of

your piece. Then apply transfer

solution and transfer the image.

•

online extra

To watch a video tutorial

on how to add a liver of

sulfur patina to metal, go to

www.artjewelrymag.com/howto.

•

www.A r t J ew e l r y M a g . c o m

troubleshooting

•

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