Troll z masy solnej-projekt free.doc

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Troll:

Troll:

 

THE TROLL BODY

BY CHRISTEL JENSEN

Photos Ray Jensen

 

The Troll Project Part 1 - The Head

The Troll Project Part 2 - Hands and Feet

The Troll Project Part 3 - The Body (this page)

 



Assembling the troll body.

This troll will have a bendable body with wire and fiberfill.

You need to cut two pieces of wire, one 22 inch (55cm) piece for the body, and one 12 inch (30cm) piece for the arms.

Materials for making the body

·         Wire

·         Needle nose pliers

·         Wire cutter

·         Super glue

·         Fiberfill

·         Thread

BODY

Click on picture for larger photo

STEP ONE:
Use the longest wire for the body.

Bend it in half, and use your pliers to make the twist on top. This is where the head will be glued on.

STEP TWO:
Use the smallest wire for the arms.

Bend the wire of the body/leg part to each side. Lay the arm piece of wire behind.

STEP THREE:
Start twining it around so it is nicely attached.

STEP FOUR:
Bend the wire for the body and legs downwards.

STEP FIVE:
Start twining it around.

STEP SIX:
Use fiberfill and attach it to the body with thread. Make sure you tighten the thread, so the body is stable. Put on more layers of fiberfill if you want it to be fatter.

STEP SEVEN:
Continue covering both arms and legs.

STEP EIGHT:
Make sure that the wires are the right length for all his parts. You have to cut them a bit to make them fit. It is better to make the wire too long, then cut off some wire, than having the wire too short!!

Glue his head, hands and feet to the wire, using superglue.

 

 

 

"Ahh, now I am done. I have clothing and a tail attached to my butt, and I am ready to make a pretty girl my wife.. Anybody interested? (I am rich!!)"

THE TROLL HANDS AND FEET

BY CHRISTEL JENSEN

Photos Ray Jensen

 

The Troll Project Part 1 - The Head

The Troll Project Part 2 - Hands and Feet (this page)

The Troll Project Part 3 - The Body (coming next)

 



Sculpting troll hands and feet. Trolls only have four fingers and toes. I use the same method for smaller sized dolls too - just add an extra finger. These fingers and toes are rough to fit the troll look.

Materials for making the hands and feet:

·         Flesh colored polymer clay (I've used Fimo Soft clay)

·         Sharp cutting blade

·         Knitting and wool/yarn needles and dental tool (optional)

·         Brush with a round back

·         Matt  polymer clay varnish

·         Nail tool or needle

·         Talcum powder

·         Water based antiquing medium

 

HAND

Click on picture for larger photo

STEP ONE:
Start with a log of clay about 1.6 inches (4 cm) long.

STEP TWO:
Make indentations for the wrist 0.6 inches (1.5 cm) into the log. Roll a knitting needle around the log.

STEP THREE:
Press the 0.6 inches (1.5 cm) part of the log down to your working surface with your finger.

STEP FOUR:
Cut away clay from both sides to shape three fingers, the one in the middle being the largest.

STEP FIVE:
Cut with a sharp blade to separate into three fingers.

STEP SIX:
Start rounding each finger with your hands. It is easier if you spread them apart. Also round the back side of each finger.

STEP SEVEN:
Blend the clay with your knitting needle to make a nice wrist shape.

STEP EIGHT:
Let the fingers rest over your own fingers, and make the indentations for knuckles.

STEP NINE:
Look at your own hands, and try to make the hand more lively. Press the clay with your knitting needle so it will be higher where the finger ends. Smooth it nicely with the needle.

STEP TEN:
Make the indentations for the lower knuckles, where the fingers meet the hand.

STEP ELEVEN:
Turn the hand and start working on the palm of the hand. Dust a rounded tool (back side of a brush) with talcum powder and press it into the hand. Do not press too hard because it will ruin the front. Make a nice round shape.

STEP TWELVE:
Roll a log for the thumb. Roll it more on one end to get a cone shape.

STEP THIRTEEN:
Press the thumb into the palm of the hand.

STEP FOURTEEN:
Blend the seams with your knitting needle.

STEP FIFTEEN:
Make wrinkles with a dental tool or a little needle where the fingers meet the palm.

STEP SIXTEEN:
More wrinkles. Look at your own fingers and see where the bendable spots are. There are three for each finger!

STEP SEVENTEEN:
Make wrinkles on the front of the hand.

STEP EIGHTEEN:
For nails, I like to use nail tools bought from Weefolk. These come in several sizes. This one is called Large. This lovely tool makes a nicely shaped nail every time you press it into the clay.

If you don't have these tools, you can use a little needle and make indentations for nails.


STEP NINETEEN:
Make a hole by pressing a wire or a knitting needle in the hand. Make sure the hole fits the wire you plan to use for the troll's skeleton body.

Make the right hand as a mirror of the left hand - same size, but with the thumb on the other side.

Bake the hands on fiberfill for 30 minutes, using the recommended temperature for your clay.

 

 



FOOT

Click on picture for larger photo

STEP TWENTY:
Start with a 2 inch (5 cm) log for the foot.

STEP TWENTY-ONE:
Bend it into shape. Press your thumb down and inward to the clay.

STEP TWENTY-TWO:
While holding the front in place with your thumb, use your other thumb to press the clay into the form of a heel.

STEP TWENTY-THREE:
Shape the foot and smooth over all rough edges.

STEP TWENTY-FOUR:
This is a left foot. Press the clay into a narrower shape where the smallest toes are, and start rounding and forming the leg and flatten the underside of the foot.

STEP TWENTY-FIVE:
Make little indentations with a needle for four toes and cut the indentations with a sharp blade.

STEP TWENTY-SIX:
Separate the toes and round them with your fingers.

STEP TWENTY-SEVEN:
Make wrinkles using a dental tool or needle.

STEP TWENTY-EIGHT:
Make nails with a nail tool or a needle.

STEP TWENTY-NINE:
Make a right foot. Make a hole in each leg the same size as the wire armature you will be using for the body. Bake the feet on a tile, standing up, for 30 minutes, using the recommended temperature for your clay.

STEP THIRTY:
After the hands and feet are baked, let them cool. Apply a water-based antiquing medium with a brush and wipe away the excess with tissue paper. (See instructions on antiquing in the troll head lesson.)

Seal the feet and hands with Fimo lacquer.

 

 I am still missing my body!

THE TROLL HEAD

BY CHRISTEL JENSEN

Photos Ray Jensen


Troll (Norwegian): n. A very large creature seen in the woods of Norway. Living in caves in the mountains, with rooms full of gold and silver. Well known to capture the oldest princess for some hero to rescue.

Sculpting a troll face is not that difficult, mainly because the proportions don’t have to be as accurate as when sculpting a human being. You can make funny faces and big noses, and they still look like that's what they were meant to be. The lesson is a good choice for beginners in 'humanized' claying.  I hope you will give it a try.

This head measures 2 inches (5cm) and his full body around 10 inches (25cm). We will only make the head in this lesson.

Materials for making the head:

·         Foil

·         Flesh colored, black, white and translucent blue polymer clay (I've used Fimo Soft clay)

·         Sobo or TLS (attaching unbaked to baked clay)

·         Pasta machine or brayer

·         Sharp cutting blade

·         Knitting and wool/yarn needles

·         Brushes

·         Acrylic antique medium, light pink and red-orange acrylic paint

·         Matt and glossy polymer clay varnish

·         Aleene's Tacky glue

·         Sheep wool for hair

·         Wire or other decorations for jewelry

 

 

Click on picture for larger photo

STEP ONE:
Start with a aluminum ball. Crumple it together and pack it hard until you have a shape around 1 1/4 inches (3cm) in diameter. Attach three or four needle pins to make it stand on your work surface while sculpting.

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