dragonfly2.pdf

$ Dragonfly, version 2

This model’s design borrows from Robert Lang’s dragonfly in The Complete Book of Origami (Dover, 1988). For your first

attempt, begin with a 3x7 rectangle considerably larger than a dollar bill. A dollar bill makes a model 45mm long with a 63mm

wingspan, and requires tweezers.

1. Begin green side up.

Valley-crease the long way,

mountain-crease the short

way.

2. Bisect the middle 4

right angles with valley-

creases.

3. Rabbit-ear. Repeat on left.

1/4

4. Fold and unfold. Turn

over and rotate 1/4 turn.

5. Crease bisectors,

stopping where shown.

Then swing flaps around.

6. Crease bisectors.

1/4

7. Collapse. A layer swings

out from behind at the 4 tiny

arrows, and the long flaps

stand straight up.

8. Swing the left half of the central

diamond under the right half; the

standing flaps fall to the left. No

new creases. Rotate.

9. Reverse-fold on

existing creases.

$ Dragonfly, v2 (continued)

10. Flip one layer down,

incorporating a reverse-fold.

Unfold. Repeat on left, and

twice behind.

11. Lift bottom point,

opening paper completely.

12. The central diamond-shape

sticks up. The indicated points

are concave. Push them up

from behind to invert them.

13-14

13. Pinch together all the edges

in the range “A”, swinging them

under. Meanwhile, divide the

central diamond. Only the tiny

valley fold is a new crease.

14. Flip one flap to the right.

Repeat 13-14 on the left.

Turn over.

15. Reverse-fold, in-and-out.

Repeat on left.

16. Reverse-fold, 1 layer

over 2. Crease only the front

half sharply. See next

diagram for positioning.

17. Flip the rectangular

section behind and upwards.

This is a reverse-fold. Do

not crease sharply.

18. Reverse-fold, 1 layer

over 2. Crease only the rear

half sharply. Note bisected

angle.

$ Dragonfly, v2 (continued)

16-20

19. Pull single-ply black triangle

to the left. This will drag the

single-ply rectanglular piece of

the upper wing downwards.

Don’t crease.

20. Reverse-fold, flipping over

the rectangular single-ply.

Press flat and sharpen all

creases.

21. Repeat 16-20 on left.

Turn over.

not to

corner

22-23

22. Flip 1 flap over, and pull

the next flap towards the left.

Model won’t lie flat.

23. Bisect lower angle,

swiveling at the upper edge.

Release the stretched layer,

and flip the long flap back to

the right.

24. Repeat 22-23 on left.

Turn over.

not to tip

25. Fold top point to center.

Turn back over.

26. Valley fold,

creasing sharply.

27. Bring one layer to

front (closed sink).

$ Dragonfly, v2 (continued)

Note: bottom of

squashed triangle

crosses point

where wing meets

body.

28. Valley-fold next flap over

on the sink line (stretching at

the wing). Unfold it.

29. Fold over again, spread-

sinking assymetrically. The

x-ray line is the other side of

the spread.

30. Reverse-fold (symetrically) tip

of tiny hidden waterbomb base,

as far as possible. (Temporarily

unfold point from step 25.)

26-31

1/4

31. Tuck left edge into the

sink. Mountain-fold right edge

behind the edge under it

(creasing sharply).

32. Repeat 26-31 on left

side. Unfold point from

step 25.

33. Fold model in half.

Rotate 1/4 turn.

2-ply here

34. Reverse-fold twice. The

valley-fold is the crease from

step 25.

35. Note: front of head is

vertical. Unfold the crimp and

spread the 4 ridges along upper

edge of head.

36. Triple-crimp along

existing creases.

$ Dragonfly, v2 (continued)

not to

corner

follow edge

behind

note: outermost

layer is “trapped”

37. At wing, swivel. At head,

flip over a layer, incorporating

a reverse fold.

38. Wrap swivelled layer

around (sort of a closed-sink).

39. Valley-fold along edge of

the wrap. Tuck under where it

overlaps the front of the wing.

37-40

40. Tuck back of wing into the

wrapped bit from step 38

(locking wing). Repeat 37-40

on other side.

41. Detail of head. Sink as

shown. If opened flat, this would

be a mountain-fold joining point

“A” with its counterpart.

42. Like so. Spread top

of head apart a bit.

Be careful of

tearing stress!

43. Top-view of head. Push

down the crimp, unsinking

the front of the head, and

close back up.

44. Closed-sink along

existing crease.

45. Dent the top corner

of the head. Tuck in at

bottom. Head is now

locked.

Optional: underneath the head,

twist the extra sunken material

towards the rear.

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika: