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Simple construction and a minimum
of time required for building make
Quickie popular with the beginners.
THE QUICKIE is designed for swift
construction and snappy performance. Although we
do not recommend trying to build it at a single sitting,
two evenings should be sufficient to get it into the air.
Structural pieces are held to a minimum; curved
sections of wing and tail are cut from sheet balsa in
the easiest manner possible. Minutes have been
sacrificed here and there to provide a few frills to
make the job more attractive.
the plans. Cross pieces are cut to size and cemented in
place. When dry, remove the side frames from the
form and assemble them to each other at Stations 3, 4,
and 5. Wrap a rubber band around the nose to pull it
into position while its remaining cross pieces are
glued in position. Pull the rear of the longerons
together, install the rudder post complete with rubber
hook, and the remaining top and bottom cross pieces.
Cut two cabin sides from 1/8" soft balsa sheet and
glue one atop each upper longeron in the proper
position. A 1/16" sheet bulkhead holds these cabin
sides in alignment and supports the 1/16" sheet V-
shaped cabin roof. Details of the landing gear are
given on the plan. Finish the landing gear and install
it before covering the fuselage. Use hardwood wheels.
Tail. The stabilizer is made from four pieces
of 1/8" soft sheet as shown by the plan. The rudder
Fuselage. The side view is symmetrical,
both 1/8" square longerons following the same bend.
The nose cross pieces are wider to take knocks. The
top and bottom cross pieces are shown in a group. No
top view is necessary. Lay wax paper over the
drawings and pin the longerons in place directly on
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requires three pieces. Notches are cut for the cross
pieces and the tail is constructed by pinning the
various parts directly over the plans until the cement
has dried. Round the leading edges and taper the trail-
ing edges.
Wings. Thirteen ribs are cut to the pattern
given from 1/16" sheet balsa. Pin one of the 1/16 x
1/4" spars over the plans as the rear spar and cement
the ribs on it in the proper locations. Preshape the 1/8
x 3/8" trailing edge and pin it to the bench. Then slide
the 1/16 x 1/4" leading edge into the leading edge
notches cut in the rib noses. Lastly, glue the top spar
in place. Cut the wing-tip pieces from soft 1/8" sheet
and cement them in place. After the wing is removed
from the form, round the front edge of the tip and
shave the rear edge to a sharp-edged taper. Brace the
tip with short pieces of 3/32" square to prevent
warping when covered. Dihedral is accomplished by
cracking the wing at the center and blocking up one
tip three inches off the bench. Hold the other side flat
on the bench. Cement the cracked center generously
to hold position.
Covering. Using thick dope for adhesive,
attach the paper to one fuselage side at a time. Trim
the edges neatly before going on to the adjacent side.
The stabilizer and rudder are each covered with two
pieces of tissue (Silkspan was used on the original
model), one piece for each side of the surface being
covered. The wings are covered with three pieces of
paper, one for the bottom, and one for each side on
the top. Attach the paper to end ribs and wing edges
only. Spray the finished covering with water and
allow to dry taut. Then follow up with a coat of thin
clear dope. When spraying the tail surfaces and
wings, pin them to the bench until dry to prevent
warping. The wet paper will not adhere to the bench.
Spray one half of the wing at a time.
Propeller. The propeller blank is cut to the
outlines on the plan from a medium-hard balsa block
1-3/4 x 1 x 8". Do not round the tips until carving is
finished. Carving is, done in the usual way. Carefully
balance and sand the finished prop. Use at least eight
strands of 1/8" flat rubber with no slack. The nose
block is shown. Glue a washer to it for a bearing and
another to the rear of the prop hub. Use a loose
washer on the shaft.
The tail surfaces are cemented permanently in
position. The wing is loose for convenience, being
held in place by rubber strands run over the wing and
around two wire hooks fastened one on each side to
the fuselage at Station 4. Test glide the model over
tall grass if possible. If properly built, the model will
be tail heavy. Since the wing cannot be moved back
and forth for adjustment, a slight amount of
downthrust will remove any stall, but if the stall
should be severe, add a little weight to the nose. Insert
a sliver of wood behind the top of the block for
downthrust. Remember occasionally to place a drop
of oil on the propeller shaft between the bearing
Scanned From November 1941
Air Trails
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