quikie.pdf

QUICKIE

BY JOHN SPRAGUE

Simple construction and a minimum

of time required for building make

Quickie popular with the beginners.

THE QUICKIE is designed for swift

construction and snappy performance. Although we

do not recommend trying to build it at a single sitting,

two evenings should be sufficient to get it into the air.

Structural pieces are held to a minimum; curved

sections of wing and tail are cut from sheet balsa in

the easiest manner possible. Minutes have been

sacrificed here and there to provide a few frills to

make the job more attractive.

the plans. Cross pieces are cut to size and cemented in

place. When dry, remove the side frames from the

form and assemble them to each other at Stations 3, 4,

and 5. Wrap a rubber band around the nose to pull it

into position while its remaining cross pieces are

glued in position. Pull the rear of the longerons

together, install the rudder post complete with rubber

hook, and the remaining top and bottom cross pieces.

Cut two cabin sides from 1/8" soft balsa sheet and

glue one atop each upper longeron in the proper

position. A 1/16" sheet bulkhead holds these cabin

sides in alignment and supports the 1/16" sheet V-

shaped cabin roof. Details of the landing gear are

given on the plan. Finish the landing gear and install

it before covering the fuselage. Use hardwood wheels.

Tail. The stabilizer is made from four pieces

of 1/8" soft sheet as shown by the plan. The rudder

CONSTRUCTION

Fuselage. The side view is symmetrical,

both 1/8" square longerons following the same bend.

The nose cross pieces are wider to take knocks. The

top and bottom cross pieces are shown in a group. No

top view is necessary. Lay wax paper over the

drawings and pin the longerons in place directly on

requires three pieces. Notches are cut for the cross

pieces and the tail is constructed by pinning the

various parts directly over the plans until the cement

has dried. Round the leading edges and taper the trail-

ing edges.

Wings. Thirteen ribs are cut to the pattern

given from 1/16" sheet balsa. Pin one of the 1/16 x

1/4" spars over the plans as the rear spar and cement

the ribs on it in the proper locations. Preshape the 1/8

x 3/8" trailing edge and pin it to the bench. Then slide

the 1/16 x 1/4" leading edge into the leading edge

notches cut in the rib noses. Lastly, glue the top spar

in place. Cut the wing-tip pieces from soft 1/8" sheet

and cement them in place. After the wing is removed

from the form, round the front edge of the tip and

shave the rear edge to a sharp-edged taper. Brace the

tip with short pieces of 3/32" square to prevent

warping when covered. Dihedral is accomplished by

cracking the wing at the center and blocking up one

tip three inches off the bench. Hold the other side flat

on the bench. Cement the cracked center generously

to hold position.

Covering. Using thick dope for adhesive,

attach the paper to one fuselage side at a time. Trim

the edges neatly before going on to the adjacent side.

The stabilizer and rudder are each covered with two

pieces of tissue (Silkspan was used on the original

model), one piece for each side of the surface being

covered. The wings are covered with three pieces of

paper, one for the bottom, and one for each side on

the top. Attach the paper to end ribs and wing edges

only. Spray the finished covering with water and

allow to dry taut. Then follow up with a coat of thin

clear dope. When spraying the tail surfaces and

wings, pin them to the bench until dry to prevent

warping. The wet paper will not adhere to the bench.

Spray one half of the wing at a time.

Propeller. The propeller blank is cut to the

outlines on the plan from a medium-hard balsa block

1-3/4 x 1 x 8". Do not round the tips until carving is

finished. Carving is, done in the usual way. Carefully

balance and sand the finished prop. Use at least eight

strands of 1/8" flat rubber with no slack. The nose

block is shown. Glue a washer to it for a bearing and

another to the rear of the prop hub. Use a loose

washer on the shaft.

FLYING

The tail surfaces are cemented permanently in

position. The wing is loose for convenience, being

held in place by rubber strands run over the wing and

around two wire hooks fastened one on each side to

the fuselage at Station 4. Test glide the model over

tall grass if possible. If properly built, the model will

be tail heavy. Since the wing cannot be moved back

and forth for adjustment, a slight amount of

downthrust will remove any stall, but if the stall

should be severe, add a little weight to the nose. Insert

a sliver of wood behind the top of the block for

downthrust. Remember occasionally to place a drop

of oil on the propeller shaft between the bearing

washers.

Scanned From November 1941

Air Trails

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