Adjustable Taper Ripping Jig.pdf
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ADJUSTABLE
TAPER/RIPPING
JIG
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co.
J
igs
&
F
ixtures
A
dJustAble
t
Aper
/r
ipping
J
ig
Onesimplejigallows
youtoripastraightedge
onroughlumberorcuta
perfecttaperwithease.
S
ometimes a jig turns out even
better than expected. That is
exactly what happened with this
adjustable taper/ripping jig.
It started out quite simply — a
platform that slides across the table
saw and carries the workpiece past
the blade. But it ended up as a jig
that can do much more.
ADJUSTABLE.
The first improvement
was a built-in system that allows
you to adjust the size of the taper.
It’s really nothing more than a piece
of hardwood and a steel pin (see
inset photo). But it makes it easy to
remove the exact amount of material
you need to form the desired “foot-
print” on the bottom end of the leg.
Once the jig is adjusted, you can
cut four identical tapers in a matter
of minutes — without changing the
basic setup of the jig.
ANGLED CUTS.
But as easy as it is to
cut tapers, you’ll probably use this
jig just as often for another job. With
two simple hold-downs clamping a
workpiece securely in place, you can
make long, angled cuts safely and
accurately (see photos below left).
STRAIGHT-LINE RIPPING.
These same
hold-downs can be used when
ripping a straight edge on a piece
of rough-sawn lumber (see photo
and inset directly below).
{
Angled Cuts.
Twoadjustablehold-
downsclampworksecurelyinplace
whenmakingangledcuts.
{
Ripping.
Toripastraightedgeona
roughboard,justremovetherunner
andusetheripfencetoguidethejig.
1
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
And if the workpiece is particu-
larly long (or wide), you can remove
the adjustment system and the
runner that rides in the miter gauge
slot and use the rip fence.
1
PLATFORM
The main part of this jig is a
platform with four T-shaped slots.
These T-slots serve as tracks for the
adjustable hold-downs.
T-SLOTS.
An easy way to form these
T-slots is to make the platform out
of two pieces and cut part of the
slot in each one.
The bottom (A) has four wide
dadoes cut in it to accept the head
of a toilet bolt (Fig. 1). Then, after
gluing on a hardboard top (B),
complete the T-slots by cutting
narrow dadoes for the shank of the
bolt (refer to Fig. 4 on page 4).
RAIL.
To ensure that the platform
remains flat after it’s built, I added a
hardwood rail (C), see Fig. 2. It’s simply
glued to the edge of the platform.
RUNNER.
The platform is guided
by a hardwood runner (D) that
slides in the miter gauge slot of the
saw table, see Fig. 2. To avoid any
“play” in the platform, you want the
runner to fit snug in the slot, yet
not so tight that it binds.
GROOVE.
Once you’re satisfied
with the fit, the next step is to cut
a groove in the bottom of the plat-
form to accept the runner. Since the
runner determines the position of
the jig on the saw table, the location
of this groove is important.
What you want is to locate the
groove so when you install the
runner later, there’s some waste
a.
a.
2
a.
on the edge of the platform. This
waste will be trimmed off when
you make your first pass.
REFERENCE EDGE.
At this point, the
edge of the platform becomes a
reference edge that indicates the
path of the saw blade. So, to make
an accurate cut on a workpiece, all
you’ll need to do is align the layout
marks with the reference edge.
THREE STEPS.
An easy way to create
this reference edge is to use a
simple three-step process, as shown
in the drawings below. But before
trimming the edge of the platform
(Step 3), you’ll need to attach the
runner with machine screws and
T-nuts, see Figs. 2 and 2a.
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
2
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
Adjustment Bar
The most unique thing about this
taper jig is the adjustment bar. It’s
just a slotted wood strip and a block
with a metal pin, see Fig. 3. But it
does two important things.
First, it makes it easy to
adjust the size of the taper.
Second, it provides a way to
cut perfectly identical tapers.
SIZE.
The secret is a pin
that fits in a centered hole in
the end of the leg. This pin
determines the position of
the leg on the platform. By
adjusting the bar, you can
move the pin (and the leg)
in two directions: side to
side and up and down.
Say you want to cut a
1
⁄
4
"
taper for instance. Just slide
the bar to the side so the
leg overhangs the refer-
ence edge by
1
⁄
4
". To allow
for pieces of different thick-
nesses, simply adjust the
height of the bar.
IDENTICAL TAPERS.
The pin
also makes it easy to cut identical
tapers without changing the setup
of the jig. That’s because it’s cen-
tered on the end of the leg. Since
the cut is referenced off a center-
point, all you need to do is rotate
3
a.
Hardware
•
(5)
1
/
4
"T-Nuts
•
(3)
1
/
4
"x1"FhMachine
Screws
•
(2)
1
/
4
"x3"
HexBolts
•
(6)
1
/
4
"HexNuts
•
(9)
5
/
16
"Washers
•
(1)#8x1
3
/
4
"Fh
Woodscrew
•
(3)
1
/
4
"Knobs
•
(2)
1
/
4
"x3
1
/
2
"
b.
ToiletBolts
•
(2)Aluminum/Wooden
ALUMINUM
HOLD-DOwN
the leg between each pass.
CONSTRUCTION.
The adjustment bar is
simple to make. After cutting slots in
the rail (E), the block (F) is glued on.
And a cutoff screw serves as the pin.
The adjustment bar is attached
to the platform by means of two
bolts that thread into T-nuts, see
Fig. 3b. A pair of nuts “capture” the
bar on the bolts. And tightening a
single nut against the platform
holds the bolts in place.
FULL-SIZE PATTERN (GRID LINES ARE ¼" APART)
Hold-Downs & Stop
All that’s left to complete the taper
jig is to add a pair of wood hold-
downs and a simple stop.
HOLD-DOWNS.
Like their name
implies, the hold-downs clamp work
securely in place as you make a cut.
By sliding them along the T-shaped
slots in the platform, you can clamp
different size pieces.
The unusual thing about the
hold-downs is their angled shape,
see pattern and drawing at left.
This shape allows the long, straight
end to rest on the platform and the
short, angled end to apply pressure
on top of a workpiece.
The clamping pressure is pro-
duced by tightening a knob on the
3
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
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