How to Make an Orgone Field Pulser by Jon Logan (2005).pdf

Previously Unreleased Construction Details of 2nd generation Orgone Field Pulser II

M obius-driven Bioenergy Generator Design adapted for construction from readily

available materials with basic handym an skills & tools. Additional free info included

Preface

Hi, and thanks for supporting ongoing Bioenergy research and development taking place at

Wizzer’s Workshop with your purchase of this booklet.

It is to be understood by the reader that in this booklet, “bioenergy” refers to an omnipresent

background energy form which is generally found in higher concentration within living organisms.

This energy is known by various names such as Orgone, Reiki energy, Bioenergy, Biomagnetic

Energy, Odic force, Prana, Chi, Etheric energy, and Aether, to name a few. It is a biological

animative energy which has magnetic, thermal, wave, fluidic and optical properties. It is a form of

energy which is capable of influencing its environment in subtle but powerful ways. It causes

changes ranging from subtle chemical or magnetic effects through to marked emotional

responses in living organisms under some conditions. This is still a growing science.

Personally, it is my view that acknowledging this energy form and understanding it more fully is in

the best interest of humankind, and it is to that end that I offer this and other information on the

subject. The experimenter (that would be you, dear reader) assumes responsibility for any

consequences which arise from the construction of this experimental device and/or its use.

The device illustrated here is a versatile and powerful bioenergy tool which both generates and

modulates life energy. When combined with an audio feed from an audio recording or the

sound card of a PC, it demonstrates many of the capabilities of much more complex and

expensive frequency therapy devices (like “rife” machines). It also has applications in

radionics, providing both an amplified output for radionics circuits, and (via the mobius coil) a

means of modulating the bioenergy discharged with radionic information. It can be used as a

standalone device or in conjunction with existing radionics machines.

The OFP is a design I have had consistently good feedback with over several years. The design

has gone through successive stages of development and adaptation. In this booklet, I have

adapted the design to be made from readily available materials. The design does not depend on

precise geometry, pleasant appearance, or even that the materials used be exactly as depicted

(even though I would suggest that they should be, until you have at least built one as depicted

before making changes to the design). As long as the same basic parts are put together in the

same way, it will work. The quality of workmanship and materials, as well as the care put into the

construction, do of course have an effect on the finished product.

In simple terms, this device makes use of the fluid characteristics of bioenergy, and also makes

use of the wave properties of bioenergy. It is an Aether vortex chamber (created by the mobius

coil) surrounded by a casing of Bioenergy- generating material. The result is that you have a

stream of Bioenergy coming out of the device, and the stream of Bioenergy carries a wave

pattern determined by the signal used to drive the coil. You will get this effect even if you just cast

a coil inside of a rough chunk of Ergonite (my name for the bioenergy-generating material). Even

when there is no current going through the coil there is still a smaller vortex generated by the coil.

The pulser design as offered here is the result of several years R&D and it is my hope that you

will find the information useful and comprehensible. My contact information is included at the end

of this booklet, and I welcome your feedback.

This book is partially the result of requests via email for more information on how to build this

device. If you have just bought this book but have never heard of Orgone Energy before, then

there are several free articles with basic information available for download from

http://www.littlemountainsmudge.com/info.htm and links to other informational resources that

should help to fill in the blanks.

Sincerely,

Jon Logan

- 2 -

Selecting a Crystal

At the core of the OFP is a mobius coil with a quartz core. Selecting a suitable

piece of quartz is the first step. The mass of the quartz is more important than the

quality. That is not to say that the quality of the crystal is unimportant, rather that

a large enough crystal of relatively poor quality will work much better than a

beautiful water-clear crystal which is too small.

If you are a person who already uses crystals

because of their bioenergy properties, then you can

select one that you like. If you are not familiar with

the use of quartz as a bioenergy lens, then it does

not matter that you have any special crystal. It

matters that the crystal you use be about 4.5 cubic

inches in volume or more. I generally use crystals

between 6 and 12 cubic inches in volume. Cracks,

inclusions, chips and so forth in the crystal will not

stop it from working. In short, the better the crystal

quality, the more efficiently the quartz core will work.

But any quartz will work, and it is important that it the

crystal be large enough. If you are going to go to all

the trouble of making this device, you may as well

use a big enough piece of quartz or you will be wasting the effort.

The crystal can have one point or two points. It does not have to be perfectly

shaped or symmetrical. You could also use a cut prism, cylinder or obelisk of

quartz. You could also use Smoky Quartz, Amethyst, Rose Quartz or Citrine,

since all of these minerals are basically quartz with a very small amount of metal

included in the crystal structure. The metal changes the color of the quartz to

give it a yellow, brown, red or purple color.

Most people are able to find natural quartz crystal for sale either on the internet

or through the mail. I generally use medium quality, double-terminated clear

quartz crystals which measure about 4 inches x 2 inches x 1.5 inches. The

design depends on there being a mass of quartz of sufficient volume (4.5 cubic

inches or more) inside the coil. So if you are not a “crystal person” then don’t

worry about it, we are working with physics here (meta-physics, that is) and not

with any individual persons belief system. Just get your hands on a chunk of

quartz that is big enough, and it will work.

You can get quality crystals from

http://www.thecrystalman.com/index.htm

And more quartz vendors are listed on this page:

http://www.littlemountainsmudge.com/links.htm

- 3 -

Supplement

If for some reason you are unable to find the required quartz crystal, you could

use the white variety of landscaping quartz known as “quartzite”, but since it is of

lower quality than the clear quartz crystals, you should use a mass of at least ten

cubic inches if you elect to use Quartzite.

Another less efficient but workable

method of getting the required crystal

mass is to take powdered quartz and

mix it with just enough plastic casting

resin to hold it together. Use polyester

(fiberglass) resin or acrylic (craft) resin.

Cast it in the shape of a simple cylinder,

and make it about 10 cubic inches in

volume or more. It will not work as well

as a nice quartz crystal, but it will work.

You can get landscaping quartz (white

rocks for putting in your garden) from the hardware store. You can get

sandblasting quartz grit (available where welding or auto body supplies are sold)

and reduce it to a powder. You can reduce either one of these products to a fine

powder with a setup like in the picture above. Wear a dust mask, goggles and

gloves, because quartz slivers are very sharp, just like glass.

You could use a length of PVC plastic pipe as the mold to make your own

“reconstituted” quartz. Use piece of 2 inch diameter pipe about 5 inches long.

Brush the inside of the pipe with vegetable oil or petroleum jelly for a mold

release agent. Get some tape and cover one end of the pipe. Mix the resin and

catalyst and then mix in the crystal powder until the mixture is thick like oatmeal.

Stand the pipe on the closed end and pour the mixture into the open end. Shake

it to release air bubbles. If at all possible, expose the mixture to sunlight or bright

moonlight while the plastic resin is setting up. It will most likely come out opaque

and either a milky white or a pastel color derived from the color of the plastic

resin. If you are going to use this method, it may be worthwhile to use acrylic

resin instead of polyester, but either will work.

This method of making a “faux crystal” from quartz powder will work, but not as

well as an actual crystal, and it really is better to use even a low quality chunk of

actual quartz crystal if at all possible.

- 4 -

Making the Mobius Coil

Once you have selected the crystal you are going to use, the next thing to do is

make a Mobius Coil to fit it.

First - Make yourself a

"mobius Cable" to wind

the coil from. While you

can wind a mobius coil

from single strands of

wire, it certainly seems to

be a lot more potent when

you use a cable made in

the manner described

here to wind the coil from.

Take a length of wire, and

double it back on itself

twice as shown to the

right. Pull a little slack out

at the ends of the wire;

this will be the leads of

the coil when it is finished.

You should leave yourself at least 6" for leads; you can always trim the leads to the required

length when the coil is finished. It is much easier to use a drill to twist the wires than doing it by

hand. I generally run the drill in reverse to twist the cable. For making the OFP, I recommend

using the solid copper wire with lacquer insulation commonly called “magnet wire” in North

America. It is called this because they use it to make electromagnets, not because it is magnetic.

If you can’t get this kind of wire, then use any wire between 20 and 14 AWG. Myself, I generally

use #18 AWG copper wire with inverter-duty lacquer insulation. If you are using wire that is not

solid but rather composed of many filaments, then be more careful when you twist it, especially if

it is # 20 AWG or smaller. In my opinion, solid copper wire is much better but any wire that is

insulated will work. Also, it does not have to come out so the spiral is exactly 45 degrees, but get

it as close as you can.

Not shown in the picture above is how to fit the cable end into the drill. Before inserting the cable

end into the drill to twist it, fold the leads back so that they point towards the end of the cable

opposite the end with the leads. Then wrap a few turns of electrical tape around the wires to

protect them from the drill. Use about 5 or 6 turns of electrical tape. This provides a cushion so

that when you tighten the drill chuck on the wires, it will not scrape off the insulation. While

working with the coil in this and subsequent steps to building the OFP, be careful not to scrape

the insulation off the wires, or the coil will short out and not work.

While you are twisting the cable, keep just enough tension on it to keep it from bunching up. Don’t

pull too hard on the wire as you twist it, or you will get knots. If you break the wires by twisting it

too tightly, start over again, don’t try to repair it. Fortunately, wire is something that is not terribly

expensive in most countries. For those of you in industrialized nations, you can generally

purchase magnet wire as described above from electrical supply contractors, or the shops where

they repair large electric motors. Most major cities have a shop that does electrical coil windings

for large motors, and they will often spool you off a few pounds for your “hobby project”.

Otherwise, go to radio shack and get what wire they have. You need about 30 feet of # 18 AWG

to make a coil of appropriate size for the OFP.

- 5 -

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