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Burda Download Pattern

Fifties Style Dress – Instructions

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44

Length of dress from waist: 75 cm

(29 3 ⁄ 4 ins)

Pattern pieces 1 to 6

Size 36 333333

Size 38 444444

Size 40 555

Size 42 666666

Size 44 777777

Materials:

135 cm (53 in) fabric with crosswise

stretch:

2.20 m (2 1 ⁄ 2 yds).

A piece of lining about 20 x 20 cm

(8 x 8 ins).

A piece of fusible interfacing Vilene/

Pellon G 785. 1 invisible zip, 40 cm

(16 ins) long and a special presser

foot.

Recommended fabrics: Fabrics with

crosswise stretch and some body,

e.g. denim, chintz, satin, gabardine.

Use stretch fabrics only.

Preparation:

The pattern pieces are printed on

24 pages framed by a thin line. Wait

until all of the pages have been

printed. Put the pages in the correct

order (see separate sheet with the

print overview).

Cut each page along the thin line at

the top and right edges, begin with

the lower left page and then stick

the pages together exactly on the

thin lines. Now cut out the pattern

pieces.

Important: Seam and hem allow-

ances are not included on the pat-

tern pieces.

size 44: 46 cm (18 1 ⁄ 8 ins) long, 3 cm

(1 1 ⁄ 4 ins) wide (incl. seam allowances).

stitching line. Press the seam allow-

ances open from the upper edges to

the clipping and neaten. Press the

pleat folds toward the centre back.

Stitch the inside pleat seams from

the upper edges to about 10 cm

(4 ins) above the marked hem line.

Stitch the upper edges of the pleat

folds together, beginning exactly at

then end of the panel seam and

stitching in a shallow curve toward

the inside pleat seam.

Transfer the pattern markings to the

fabric pieces:

Use BURDA dressmaker's carbon pa-

per and a tracing wheel to transfer

important pattern piece lines and

markings (seam and hem lines)

except for the grain line to the

wrong side of the fabric pieces (see

intructions included with the pack).

Stitch the back skirt panel to the

back piece, matching the panel

seams. Press the seam allowances

open and neaten.

Interfacing: Iron strips of interfacing

about 10 cm (4 ins) wide over the

tabs on the wrong side of the fabric

(see shaded area on pattern layout).

Cutting out:

Use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark

the seam and hem allowances on

the fabric round the paper pattern

pieces: 4 cm (1 5 ⁄ 8 ins) for the hem,

1.5 cm ( 5 ⁄ 8 in) at all other seams and

edges.

1 front on a fold

Pin the upper edges of the side

front skirt panels each right sides

together with the respective lower

edges of the front piece beginning

at the side edge (seam number 1).

Stitch. Clip the seam allowance of

the front 1.5 cm ( 5 ⁄ 8 in) wide (width

of seam allowance) next to each

marked dart line. Press the seam

allowances of the skirt joining seam

open. Lay the side skirt panels right

sides together with the front. Pin

the lengthwise panel seams and go

on to pin the bust darts. Stitch,

beginning at the lower edge. End

stitching at point of dart. Press the

seam allowances open, press the

dart ﬂat. Neaten the seam allow-

ances.

Neaten the seam allowance at the

neck edge of the centre back piece,

press to the inside and stitch loosely

by hand.

2 side front skirt panel

Lay each side back piece on the

centre back piece from the marking

(seam number 2). Pin the back panel

seams. Stitch. Press the seam allow-

ances open and neaten.

3 centre back on a fold

4 side back

5 centre back skirt panel

on a fold x1

6 side back skirt panel x2

a) 2 bias strips to face the armhole

edges for

size 36: 42 cm (16 1 ⁄ 2 ins),

size 38: 43 cm (17 ins), size 40: 44 cm

(17 1 ⁄ 4 ins), size 42: 45 cm (17 3 ⁄ 4 ins),

Lay the side back skirt panels

right sides together with the centre

back skirt panel. Stitch the panel

seams from the upper edges to the

marking, go on to baste the pleats

like a seam. Clip the seam allow-

ances of the side skirt panels at the

top end of the pleat close to the

Pattern layout

for 135 cm fabric

Integral tabs: Face the slash lines

on the front with lining: Cut 4 strips

of lining each 20 cm (8 ins) long and

5 cm (2 ins) wide. Mark the centre.

Pin the lining pieces each over the

marked slash lines on the front with

right sides facing so that the strips

of lining overhang by 1 cm ( 3 ⁄ 8 in) at

the bottom and the marked centre

lies between the slash lines. Stitch

Fold the fabric

as shown in the

pattern layout,

right side

facing in.

page 1 of 2

Construction:

Burda Download Pattern, Instructions for Fifties Style Dress

page 2 of 2

Tabs: Gather the slashed edges of

the front. Fold the tabs down onto

the right side of the fabric to do

this. Smooth the lining pieces at the

cut edges of the front forward and

to the side. Take small running

stitches by hand exactly along the

marked seam line and go on in the

line of the lining joining seam (3) or

machine stitch at a long stitch set-

ting. Push the fabric of the slashed

edges together along the gathering

threads until the edges are as long

as the respective edges of the tabs

up to the fold line. Conceal the ends

of the gathering threads. Distribute

the gathering evenly. Pin the edges

of the tabs to the slashed edges up

to the fold line, sew by hand. Fold

the top edge of the tab to the inside

on the fold line, sew in place inside

the dress.

marked ends of the opening. Close

the zip.

Place the other zip band face down

on the right fabric side of the front

opening edge and pin at the top

with a single straight pin. Open the

zip again. Place the presser foot on

the top end of the zip so that the

coil is in the notch to the left of the

needle (5). Sew the zip in place from

the top to the end of the opening.

Close the zip.

Stitch the side seam from the top

(marking) to the zip opening. Turn

the loose lower end of the zip back

toward the seam allowance and

stitch as close as possible to the ﬁrst

stitch of the zip seams. Stitch the

side seam below the zip opening

likewise, beginning at the lower

edge. Neaten the seam allowances

and press open. Go on to press the

bias strip at the armhole to the in-

side. Cut off surplus zip and bind the

end with a scrap of fabric.

Stitch the bias strips on loosely at

the armholes by hand.

Armhole edges: Neaten one long

edge of each bias strip. Pin the

unneatened edge of the bias strips

right sides together with the edges

of the armholes, leaving the ends of

the bias strips overhanging at the

markings. Stitch from the wrong

fabric side of the dress, beginning

and ending exactly at the markings.

Leave the bias strip lying right side

facing down and fold the ends up

from each marking, pin in place.

Hem: Undo the basting at the

pleats. Neaten the hem allowance,

turn to the inside, baste and press.

Stitch the hem loosely by hand.

Stitch the remaining inside pleat

seams across the ﬁnished hem. Turn

in the seam allowances at the edge

of the hem toward each other.

Neaten the inside pleat seams

together.

Lay the front right sides together

with the back. Stitch the right side

seam. Press the seam allowances

open, go on to press the bias strip to

the inside at the edge of the arm-

hole.

right

fabric side

wrong

fabric side

inter-

facing

lining

Invisible zip and left side seam:

Open the zip and push the coil back

with your thumbnail to reveal the

seam between the band and the

coil. Place the open zip face down

on the right side fabric side of the

back opening edge. So that the zip

can be stitched in place exactly

along the marked seam line, calcu-

late the distance between the band

and the fabric edge as follows: seam

allowances width minus 1 cm ( 3 ⁄ 8 in)

band width = distance from fabric

edge. Pin the top end of the zip

band in place the calculated distance

from the edge of the fabric with a

single straight pin. The teeth of the

zip begin at the marked top end of

the opening. The bottom end of the

zip will overhang the marked end of

the opening. Place the presser foot

on the zip so that the coil is in the

notch to the right of the needle (4).

Stitch zip in place between the

from the wrong fabric side of the

front piece as follows: along the

edge of the tab from the top to the

tip, then from the tip along the

other marked slash edge for about

3 cm (1 1 ⁄ 4 ins) more upward. Slash the

front and strips of lining 2 mm ( 1 ⁄ 8 in)

next to the tab edges, cut close to

the stitching at the pointed ends of

the slash lines (1). Trim off the loose

ends of the lining strips and neaten

the cut edges. Turn the lining pieces

to the inside. Press the edges of the

tabs (2).

Neckline: Neaten the allowances

of the neckline edges on the front

and back, press to the inside and

stitch loosely by hand.

All styles, pattern pieces and illustrations are copyrighted, commercial reproduction is prohibited.

The publisher cannot be held responsible for damages due to incorrect use of the pattern or materials,

incorrect application of tips or failure to follow instructions, or inappropriate use of the projects.

Shoulder seams: Lay the front

right sides together with the back.

Stitch the shoulder seams. Press the

seam allowances open, neaten.

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