Knots, Splices and Rope Work.pdf

KNOTS, SPLICES and ROPE WORK

A PRACTICAL TREATISE

Giving Complete and Simple Directions for Making All the Most Useful and Ornamental Knots in

Common Use, with Chapters on Splicing, Pointing, Seizing, Serving, etc. Adapted for the Use of

Travellers, Campers, Yachtsmen, Boy Scouts, and All Others Having to Use or Handle Ropes for Any

Purpose.

A. HYATT VERRILL

Editor Popular Science Dept., "American Boy Magazine."

SECOND REVISED EDITION

Illustrated with 156 Original Cuts Showing How

Each Knot, Tie or Splice is Formed and Its

Appearance When Complete.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER I

CORDAGE

Kinds of Rope. Construction of Rope. Strength of Ropes. Weight of Ropes. Material Used in Making

Ropes.

CHAPTER II

SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS

Parts of Rope. Whipping and Seizing Rope. Loops. Cuckolds' Necks. Clinches. Overhand and Figure-

eight Knots. Square and Reef Knots. Granny Knots. Open-hand and Fishermen's Knots. Ordinary Knots

and Weavers' Knots. Garrick Bends and Hawser Hitches. Half-hitches.

CHAPTER III

TIES AND HITCHES

Larks' Heads. Slippery and Half-hitches. Clove Hitches. Gunners' Knots and Timber Hitches. Twists,

Catspaws, and Blackwall Hitches. Chain Hitch. Rolling and Magnus Hitches. Studding-sail and Gaff-

topsail Halyard Bends. Roband and Fisherman's Hitches.

CHAPTER IV

NOOSES, LOOPS, AND MOORING KNOTS

Waterman's Knot. Larks' Heads with Nooses. Cleat and Wharf Ties. Bow-line Knots. Loops and Loop

Knots.

CHAPTER V

SHORTENINGS, GROMMETS, AND SELVAGEES

Two-, Three-, and Fivefold Shortenings. Single Plaits and Monkey Chain. Twist Braids and Braiding

Leather. Open Chains. Seized and Bow Shortenings. Sheepshanks and Dogshanks. Grommets. Selvagee

Straps and Selvagee Boards. Flemish and Artificial Eyes. Throat Seizings. Lashed Splices.

CHAPTER VI

LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, SPLICES, ETC.

Wedding Knots and Rose Lashings. Deadeye and Loop Lashings. Belaying-pin Splice. Necklace Ties.

Close Bands and End Pointing. Ending Ropes. Short Splices. Long Splices. Eye and Cut Splices.

CHAPTER VII

FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK

Single Crown Knots. Tucked Crowns. Single Wall Knots. Common and French Shroud Knots. Double

Crown and Double Wall Knots. Crowning Wall Knots. Double Wall and Crown. Manrope Knots.

Topsail-halyard Toggles. Matthew Walker and Stopper Knots. Turks' Heads and Turks' Caps.

Worming, Parcelling, and Serving. Serving Mallet. Half-hitch Work. Four-strand and Crown Braids.

Rope Buckles and Swivels. Slinging Casks and Barrels. Rope Belting.

INDEX

INTRODUCTION

The history of ropes and knots is so dim and ancient that really little is known of their origin. That

earliest man used cordage of some kind and by his ingenuity succeeded in tying the material together, is

indisputable, for the most ancient carvings and decorations of prehistoric man show knots in several

forms. Doubtless the trailing vines and plants first suggested ropes to human beings; and it is quite

probable that these same vines, in their various twistings and twinings, gave man his first idea of knots.

Since the earliest times knots have been everywhere interwoven with human affairs; jugglers have used

them in their tricks; they have become almost a part of many occupations and trades, while in song and

story they have become the symbol of steadfastness and strength.

Few realize the importance that knots and cordage have played in the world's history, but if it had not

been for these simple and every-day things, which as a rule are given far too little consideration, the

human race could never have developed beyond savages. Indeed, I am not sure but it would be safe to

state that the real difference between civilized and savage man consists largely in the knowledge of

knots and rope work. No cloth could be woven, no net or seine knitted, no bow strung and no craft

sailed on lake or sea without numerous knots and proper lines or ropes; and Columbus himself would

have been far more handicapped without knots than without a compass.

History abounds with mention of knots, and in the eighth book of "Odyssey" Ulysses is represented as

securing various articles of raiment by a rope fastened in a "knot closed with Circean art"; and as further

proof of the prominence the ancients gave to knots the famous Gordian Knot may be mentioned.

Probably no one will ever learn just how this fabulous knot was tied, and like many modern knots it was

doubtless far easier for Alexander to cut it than to untie it.

The old sorcerers used knots in various ways, and the witches of Lapland sold sailors so-called "Wind

Knots," which were untied by the sailors when they desired a particular wind. Even modern conjurors

and wizards use knots extensively in their exhibitions and upon the accuracy and manner in which their

knots are tied depends the success of their tricks.

In heraldry many knots have been used as symbols and badges and many old Coats of Arms bear

intricate and handsome knots, or entwined ropes, emblazoned upon them.

As to the utility of knots and rope work there can be no question. A little knowledge of knots has saved

many a life in storm and wreck, and if every one knew how to quickly and securely tie a knot there

would be far fewer casualties in hotel and similar fires. In a thousand ways and times a knowledge of

rope and knots is useful and many times necessary. Many an accident has occurred through a knot or

splice being improperly formed, and even in tying an ordinary bundle or "roping" a trunk or box few

people tie a knot that is secure and yet readily undone and quickly made. In a life of travel and

adventure in out-of-the-way places, in yachting or boating, in hunting or fishing, and even in motoring,

to command a number of good knots and splices is to make life safer, easier, and more enjoyable, aside

from the real pleasure one may find in learning the interesting art of knot-tying.

Through countless ages the various forms of knots and fastenings for rope, cable, or cord have been

developed; the best kinds being steadily improved and handed down from generation to generation,

while the poor or inferior fastenings have been discarded by those whose callings required the use of

cordage.

Gradually, too, each profession or trade has adopted the knots best suited to its requirements, and thus

we find the Sailor's Knot; the Weaver's Knot; Fishermen's knots; Builders' knots; Butchers' knots; and

many others which have taken their names from the use to which they are especially adapted.

In addition to these useful knots, there are many kinds of ornamental or fancy knots used in

ornamenting the ends of ropes, decorating shrouds of vessels, railings, and similar objects; while certain

braids or plaits, formed by a series of knots, are widely used aboard ship and on land.

In many cases ropes or cable must be joined in such a way that they present a smooth and even surface

and for such purposes splices are used, while knots used merely as temporary fastenings and which

must be readily and quickly tied and untied are commonly known as "bends" or "hitches." Oddly

enough, it is far easier to tie a poor knot than a good one, and in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred the

tyro, when attempting to join two ropes together, will tie either a "slippery" or a "jamming" knot and

will seldom succeed in making a recognized and "ship-shape" knot of any sort.

The number of knots, ties, bends, hitches, splices, and shortenings in use is almost unlimited and they

are most confusing and bewildering to the uninitiated. The most useful and ornamental, as well as the

most reliable, are comparatively few in number, and in reality each knot learned leads readily to

another; in the following pages I have endeavored to describe them in such a manner that their

construction may be readily understood and mastered.

THE AUTHOR.

JANUARY, 1917.

CHAPTER I

CORDAGE

Before taking up the matter of knots and splices in detail it may be well to give attention to cordage in general.

Cordage, in its broadest sense, includes all forms and kinds of rope, string, twine, cable, etc., formed of braided or

twisted strands.

In making a

rope or line the

fibres ( A , Fig. 1)

of hemp, jute,

cotton, or other

material are

loosely twisted

together to form

what is

technically

known as a

"yarn" ( B , Fig.

1). When two or

more yarns are

twisted together

they form a

"strand" ( C , Fig.

1). Three or

more strands

form a rope ( D ,

Fig. 1), and

three ropes form a cable ( E , Fig. 1). To form a strand the yarns are twisted together in the opposite direction from

that in which the original fibres were twisted; to form a rope the strands are twisted in the opposite direction from

the yarns of the strands, and to form a cable each rope is twisted opposite from the twist of the strands. In this way

the natural tendency for each yarn, strand, or rope to untwist serves to bind or hold the whole firmly together (Fig.

1).

Rope is usually three-stranded and the strands turn from left to right

or "with the sun," while cable is left-handed or twisted "against the

sun" ( E , Fig. 1). Certain ropes, such as "bolt-rope" and most cables,

are laid around a "core" ( F , Fig. 2) or central strand and in many

cases are four-stranded (Fig. 2).

The strength of a rope depends largely upon the strength and length

of the fibres from which it is made, but the amount each yarn and

strand is twisted, as well as the method used in bleaching or

preparing the fibres, has much to do with the strength of the finished

line.

Roughly, the strength of ropes may be calculated by multiplying the

circumference of the rope in inches by itself and the fifth part of the

product will be the number of tons the rope will sustain. For

example, if the rope is 5 inches in circumference, 5 X 5 = 25, one-

fifth of which is 5, the number of tons that can safely be carried on a

5-inch rope. To ascertain the weight of ordinary "right hand" rope,

multiply the circumference in inches by itself and multiply, the

result by the length of rope in fathoms and divide the product by

3.75. For example, to find the weight of a 5-inch rope, 50 fathoms in

length: 5 X 5 = 25; 25 x 50 = 1,250; 1,250 ÷ 3.75 = 333-1/3 lbs.

These figures apply to Manila or hemp rope, which is the kind commonly used, but jute, sisal-flax, grass, and silk

are also used considerably. Cotton rope is seldom used save for small hand-lines, clothes-lines, twine, etc., while

wire rope is largely used nowadays for rigging vessels, derricks, winches, etc., but as splicing wire rope is

different from the method employed in fibre rope, and as knots have no place in wire rigging, we will not consider

it.

CHAPTER II

SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS

For convenience in handling

rope and learning the various

knots, ties, and bends, we use

the terms "standing part,"

"bight," and "end" (Fig. 3). The

Standing Part is the principal

portion or longest part of the

rope; the Bight is the part curved

or bent while working or

handling; while the End is that

part used in forming the knot or

hitch. Before commencing work

the loose ends or strands of a

rope should be "whipped" or "seized" to prevent the rope from unravelling; and although an expert can readily tie almost

any knot, make a splice, or in fact do pretty nearly anything with a loose-ended rope, yet it is a wise plan to invariably

whip the end of every rope, cable, or hawser to be handled, while a marline-spike, fid, or pointed stick will also prove of

great help in working rope.

To whip or seize a rope-end, take a

piece of twine or string and lay it on

the rope an inch or two from the end,

pass the twine several times around the

rope, keeping the ends of the twine

under the first few turns to hold it in

place; then make a large loop with the

free end of twine; bring it back to the

rope and continue winding for three or

four turns around both rope and end of

twine; and then finish by drawing the

loop tight by pulling on the free end

(Fig. 4).

All knots are begun by "loops" or

rings commonly known to mariners

as "Cuckolds' Necks" (Fig. 5).

These may be either overhand or underhand, and

when a seizing or fastening of twine is placed around

the two parts where they cross a useful rope ring

known as a "clinch" is formed (Fig. 6).

If the loose end of the rope is

passed over the standing part

and through the "cuckold's-

neck," the simplest of all knots,

known as the "Overhand

Knot," is made (Fig. 7). This

drawn tight appears as in Fig.

8, and while so simple this

knot is important, as it is

frequently used in fastening the

ends of yarns and strands in

splicing, whipping, and seizing.

The "Figure-Eight Knot" is almost

as simple as the overhand and is

plainly shown in Figs. 9 and 10.

Only a step beyond

the figure-eight and

the overhand knots are

the "Square" and

"Reefing" knots (Figs.

11 and 12). The

square knot is

probably the most

useful and widely

used of any common

knot and is the best all-

around knot known. It

is very strong, never

slips or becomes

jammed, and is readily untied. To make a square knot, take the ends of the rope and pass the left end over and under the

right end, then the right over and under the left.

If you once learn the simple

formula of "Left over," "Right

over," you will never make a

mistake and form the despised

"Granny," a most useless,

bothersome, and deceptive

makeshift for any purpose (Fig.

13). The true "Reef Knot" is

merely the square knot with the

bight of the left or right end

used instead of the end itself.

This enables the knot to be "cast off" more readily than the regular square knot ( A , Fig. 12).

Neither square nor reef knots, however, are reliable when

tying two ropes of unequal size together, for under such

conditions they will frequently slip and appear as in Fig. 14,

and sooner or later will pull apart.

To prevent this the ends may be

tied or seized as shown in Fig.

15.

A better way to

join two ropes of

unequal diameter

is to use the

"Open-hand

Knot." This knot

is shown in Fig.

16, and is very

quickly and

easily made; it

never slips or

gives, but is

rather large and

clumsy, and if

too great a strain

is put on the rope

it is more likely

to break at the

knot than at any

other spot.

The "Fisherman's Knot," shown

in Fig. 17, is a good knot and is

formed by two simple overhand

knots slipped over each rope,

and when drawn taut appears as

in Fig. 18.

This is an important and valuable knot

for anglers, as the two lines may be

drawn apart by taking hold of the ends,

A , B , and a third line for a sinker, or

extra hook, may be inserted between

them. In joining gut lines the knot

should be left slightly open and the

space between wrapped with silk. This

is probably the strongest known method

of fastening fine lines.

The "Ordinary Knot," for fastening

heavy ropes, is shown in Fig. 19.

It is made by forming a simple knot and

then interlacing the other rope or

"following around," as shown in Fig.

20. This knot is very strong, will not

slip, is easy to make, and does not strain

the fibres of the rope. Moreover, ropes

joined with this knot will pay out, or

hang, in a straight line.

By whipping the ends to the standing parts it

becomes a neat and handsome knot (Fig. 21).

The "Weaver's Knot" (Fig. 22) is more useful in

joining small lines, or twine, than for rope, and

for thread it is without doubt the best knot known.

The ends are crossed as in Fig. 23. The end

A is then looped back over the end B , and

the end B is slipped through loop C and

drawn tight.

Another useful and handsome

knot is illustrated in Fig. 24.

This is a variation of the figure-

eight knot, already described,

and is used where there is too

much rope, or where a simple

knot is desired to prevent the

rope running through an eye,

ring, or tackle-block.

It is made by forming a

regular figure eight and

then "following round"

with the other rope as in

Fig. 25. It is then drawn

taut and the ends seized

to the standing part if

desired.

Sometimes we have occasion to

join two heavy or stiff ropes or

hawsers, and for this purpose

the "Garrick Bend" (Fig. 26) is

preeminently the best of all

knots. To make this knot, form

a bight by laying the end of a

rope on top of and across the

standing part.

Next take the end of the other

rope and pass it through this

bight, first down, then up, over

the cross and down through the

bight again, so that it comes out

on the opposite side from the

other end, thus bringing one end

on top and the other below, as

illustrated in Fig. 27. If the lines

are very stiff or heavy the knot

may be secured by seizing the

ends to the standing parts.

A much simpler and a far

poorer knot is sometimes used

in fastening two heavy ropes

together. This is a simple hitch

within a loop, as illustrated in

Fig. 28, but while it has the

advantage of being quickly and

easily tied it is so inferior to the

Garrick bend that I advise all to

adopt the latter in its place.

When two heavy

lines are to be

fastened for any

considerable time,

a good method is

to use the "Half-

hitch and Seizing,"

shown in Fig. 29.

This is a secure and easy method of fastening ropes together and it allows the rope to be handled more easily, and to pass

around a winch or to be coiled much more readily, than when other knots are used.

CHAPTER III

TIES AND HITCHES

All the knots I have so far described are used mainly for fastening the two ends of a rope, or of two ropes, together.

Of quite a different class are the knots used in making a rope fast to a stationary or solid object, and are known as

"hitches" or "ties."

One of the easiest of this class to make and one which is

very useful in fastening a boat or other object where it may

be necessary to release it quickly is the "Lark's Head" (Fig.

30). To make this tie, pass a bight of your rope through the

ring, or other object, to which you are making fast and then

pass a marline-spike, a billet of wood, or any similar object

through the sides of the bight and under or behind the

standing part, as shown in A , Fig. 30.

The end of the rope may then be laid over and under the standing

part and back over itself. This knot may be instantly released by

merely pulling out the toggle.

Almost as quickly made and unfastened is the "Slippery

Hitch" (Fig. 32).

To make this, run the end of the rope through the ring or

eye to which it is being fastened, then back over the

standing part and pull a loop, or bight, back through the

"cuckold's neck" thus formed (Fig. 33). To untie, merely

pull on the free end.

Two half-hitches,

either around a post

or timber or around

the standing part of

the rope, make an

ideal and quickly

tied fastening (Figs.

34 and 35). To make

these, pass the end

around the post, ring,

or other object, then

over and around the

standing part

between the post and

itself, then under and

around the standing part and between its own loop and the first one formed. After a little practice you can tie this

knot almost instantly and by merely throwing a couple of turns around a post, two half-hitches may be formed

instantly. This knot will hold forever without loosening, and even on a smooth, round stick or spar it will stand an

enormous strain without slipping.

A more secure knot for this same purpose is

the "Clove Hitch" (Fig. 36), sometimes known

as the "Builders' Hitch."

To make this, pass the end of

rope around the spar or

timber, then over itself; over

and around the spar, and

pass the end under itself and

between rope and spar, as

shown in the illustration.

The Clove hitch with ends knotted becomes the

"Gunners' Knot" (Fig. 37). These are among the

most valuable and important of knots and are

useful in a thousand and one places. The Clove

hitch will hold fast on a smooth timber and is

used extensively by builders for fastening the

stageing to the upright posts. It is also useful in

making a tow-line fast to a wet spar, or timber,

and even on a slimy and slippery spile it will

seldom slip.

For this purpose the "Timber Hitch" (Fig. 38) is even

better than the Clove hitch. It is easily made by passing

the end of a rope around the spar or log, round the

standing part of the rope and then twist it three or more

times around, under and over itself.

If you wish this still more secure, a

single half-hitch may be taken with

the line a couple of feet further along

the spar (Fig. 39).

It is remarkable what power to grip a twisted rope has,

and the "Twist Knots" shown in Figs. 40 and 41 illustrate

two ways of making fast which are really not knots at all

but merely twists.

These may be finished by a simple knot, or a bow-

knot, as shown in Fig. 42, but they are likely to jam

under great pressure and are mainly useful in tying

packages, or bundles, with small cord, where the

line must be held taut until the knot is completed.

This principle of fastening by twisted rope is also

utilized in the "Catspaw" (Fig. 43), a most useful knot or

"hitch" for hoisting with a hook.

To make this, pass the bight of your rope over the end and

standing part, then, with a bight in each hand, take three twists

from you, then bring the two bights side by side and throw over

the hook (Fig. 44).

The "Blackwall Hitch" (Fig. 45) is still simpler and easier

to make and merely consists of a loop, or cuckold's neck,

with the end of rope passed underneath the standing part

and across the hook so that as soon as pressure is exerted

the standing part bears on the end and jams it against the

hook.

The "Chain

Hitch" (Fig. 46)

is a very strong

method of

fastening a line

to a timber, or

large rope,

where one has a

rope of

sufficient

length, and is used frequently to help haul in a large rope or for similar purposes.

It consists simply of

a number of half-

hitches taken at

intervals around the

object and is

sometimes used with

a lever or handspike,

as shown in Fig. 47.

The "Rolling Hitch" is a modified Clove hitch and is shown in

Fig. 48.

The "Magnus Hitch" (Fig. 49) is a method

frequently used on shipboard for holding spars;

and the "Studding-sail Bend" (Fig. 50) is also used for this

purpose.

Occasions sometimes arise where a tackle, hook, ring, or

another rope must be fastened to a beam by the same rope

being used, and in such cases the "Roband Hitch" (Fig. 51)

comes in very handy.

These are all so simple and easily understood from the

figures that no explanation is necessary.

Almost as simple are the "Midshipman's Hitch" (Fig.

52), the "Fisherman's Hitch" (Fig. 53), and the "Gaff

Topsail Halyard Bend" (Fig. 54). The midshipman's

hitch is made by taking a half-hitch around the standing

part and a round turn twice around above it.

The fisherman's hitch is

particularly useful in

making fast large

hawsers; with the end of

a rope take two turns

around a spar, or through

a ring; take a half-hitch

around the standing part

and under all the turns;

then a half-hitch round

the standing part only

and if desired seize the

end to standing part.

The gaff-topsail

bend is formed by

passing two turns

around the yard and

coming up on a third

turn over both the

first two turns; over

its own part and one

turn; then stick the

end under the first

turn.

CHAPTER IV

NOOSES, LOOPS AND MOORING KNOTS

Nothing is more interesting to a landsman than the manner in which a sailor handles huge, dripping hawsers or

cables and with a few deft turns makes then fast to a pier-head or spile, in such a way that the ship's winches,

warping the huge structure to or from the dock, do not cause the slightest give or slip to the rope and yet, a moment

later, with a few quick motions, the line is cast off, tightened up anew, or paid out as required.

Clove hitches, used as illustrated in Fig. 55, and known as

the "Waterman's Knot," are often used, with a man holding

the free end, for in this way a slight pull holds the knot fast,

while a little slack gives the knot a chance to slip without

giving way entirely and without exerting any appreciable

pull on the man holding the end.

"Larks' Heads" are also used in conjunction

with a running noose, as shown in Fig. 56,

while a few turns

under and over and

around a cleat, or

about two spiles, is a

method easily

understood and

universally used by

sailors (Fig. 57).

The sailor's knot par

excellence,

however, is the

"Bow-line" (Fig.

58), and wherever

we find sailors, or

seamen, we will

find this knot in one

or another of its

various forms.

When you can

readily and surely

tie this knot every

time, you may feel

yourself on the road

to "Marline-spike

Seamanship," for it

is a true sailor's knot and never slips, jams, or fails; is easily and quickly untied, and is useful in a hundred places

around boats or in fact in any walk of life.

The knot in its

various stages is

well shown in

Fig. 59 and by

following these

illustrations you

will understand

it much better

than by a

description

alone. In A the

rope is shown

with a bight or

cuckold's neck

formed with the

end over the

standing part.

Pass A back

through the

bight, under,

then over, then

under, as shown in B , then over and down through the bight, as shown in C and D , and draw taut, as in E .

The "Bow-line on a Bight" (Fig 60) is just as easily made and is

very useful in slinging casks or barrels and in forming a seat for

men to be lowered over cliffs, or buildings, or to be hoisted aloft

aboard ship for painting, cleaning, or rigging.

A "Running Bow-line" (Fig. 61) is merely a bow-line with the end

passed through the loop, thus forming a slip knot.

Other "Loops" are made as shown in Figs. 62-65, but none of these are as safe,

sure, and useful as the bow-line.

One of these knots,

known as the "Tomfool

Knot" (Fig. 66), is used

as handcuffs and has

become quite famous,

owing to its having

baffled a number of

"Handcuff Kings" and

other performers who

readily escaped from

common knots and

manacles. It is made like

the running knot (Fig.

62), and the firm end is

then passed through the

open, simple knot so as

to form a double loop or

bow. If the hands or wrists are placed within these loops and the latter drawn taut, and the loose ends tied firmly

around the central part, a pair of wonderfully secure handcuffs results.

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