PhantomManual.pdf

Technical Characteristics

Scale: 1/8” = 1’ 0” (1:96)

Length: 13-1/2”

Height: 13-1/2”

Hull Width: 2-1/2”

Phantom

1868

The Phantom and Pet , sister schooners, were built in

1868-69 at the Lawlor yard in East Boston,

Massachusetts for the Boston port pilots. Dennison J.

Lawlor designed them, as is evident from his “trade-

marks”: plumb stem, sharp entry, abrupt bilges amid-

ship, very easy run, and drag of keel. These characteris-

tics persist over his long period of successful designing.

and operated out of New York for several years. On

March 14, 1886, Phantom was the first to aid the sinking

British liner S. S. Oregon off the coast of Long Island.

Her crew oversaw the orderly rescue of 852 people, 400

of whom were aboard when she returned to port. At

the time, she was listed as New York Pilot Boat No. 11,

displaying those numerals on her main sail. She was

lost in the Great Blizzard of March, 1888. The boat keep-

er, cook, and four seamen went down with the ship.

Phantom was sold to the Sandy Hook (New York) pilots

MODEL SHIPWAYS

Kit No. 2027

New York Pilot Boat

Instruction Manual

Model Shipways Kit No. 2027

New York Pilot Boat

PHANTOM

1868

By George F. Campbell, 1960

Updated Instruction Manual

By Ben Lankford

Incorporating suggestions by model builder, Arthur Glaser

The Model Shipways plans for Phantom were prepared in 1960 by

Mr. George F. Campbell, who passed away several years ago. Mr. Campbell was a

noted British marine artist, author, naval architect, and historian. He was a member

of the Royal Institute of Naval Architects. One of his most noteworthy publications

is China Tea Clippers . He also developed the drawings for the Cutty Sark restoration

in England, developed the Model Shipways kit of Rattlesnake , and authored Model

Shipways’ model handbook, Neophyte Shipmodeler's Jackstay .

The Model Shipways plans for Phantom are based on hull lines provided

by Howard I. Chapelle, taken from a builder’s half-model in the Smithsonian

Institute. Deck details and rigging are based on photo information from the

Peabody Museum of Salem, Massachusetts.

MODEL SHIPWAYS

Sold & distrubuted by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc.

Hollywood, FL 33022

www.modelexpo-online.com

CONSTRUCTION STAGES & TABLE OF CONTENTS

Brief History

Cover

Introduction/Credits

Pg 2

Before You Begin

Pg 4

How to Work With the Plans & Parts

Pg 4

What You’ll Need to Start Construction

Pg 5

Painting & Staining the Model

Pg 6

Stage A: Shaping the Pre-Carved Hull

Pg 6

1. Hull Templates

Pg 6

2. Carving the Hull

Pg 6

3. Carving the Deck & Bulwarks

Pg 6

Stage B: Completing the Basic Hull Structures

Pg 8

1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost

Pg 8

2. Installing the Rudder

Pg 8

3. Drilling the Larger Holes in the Hull

Pg 8

4. Holes to Be Drilled as Work Progresses

Pg 8

5. Planking the Deck

Pg 8

6. Installing the Bulwark Stanchions & Cap Rail

Pg 8

7. Coppering the Hull

Pg 8

Stage C: Mounting the Hull

Pg 10

1. Launching Ways

Pg 10

2. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals

Pg 10

Stage D: Adding the Hull Details

Pg 10

1. Wheelbox, Companionways & Skylight

Pg 10

2. Britannia Castings

Pg 10

Stage E: Mast & Spar Construction

Pg 10

1. Shaping the Lower & Top Masts: Fore & Main

Pg 10

2. Assembling the Fore & Main Masts

Pg 10

3. Shaping the Spars

Pg 11

4. Main Boom & Gaff Assemblies

Pg 11

5. Mounting the Mast Assemblies & Bowsprit

Pg 11

Stage F: General Rigging Information

Pg 12

1. Rigging Sail Lines

Pg 12

2. Choosing the Right Size Lines

Pg 12

3. Applying Beeswax to the Lines

Pg 12

4. Seizing the Lines

Pg 12

5. Blocks, Strops & Fittings

Pg 12

Stage G: Standing Rigging

Pg 13

1. Bowsprit Rigging

Pg 13

2. Shrouds

Pg 13

3. Stays

Pg 13

4. Footropes

Pg 13

Stage H: Running Rigging

Pg 13

1. Fore & Mainsail Rigging

Pg 13

2. Jib & Fore Staysail Rigging

Pg 13

3. Main Topmast Staysail & Gaff Topsail Rigging

Pg 13

4. Belaying the Running Rigging

Pg 13

5. Final Touches

Pg 13

Scale Conversion Table

Pg 14

Rigging Line Diameters

Pg 14

Millimeters/Inches Conversion Formulas

Pg 14

Bibliography

Pg 15

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

HOW TO WORK WITH THE PLANS & PARTS

The Phantom is an interesting model

Before starting model construction, exam-

ine the kit and study the plans carefully.

Familiarizing yourself with the kit will

serve two purposes. First, it will let you

determine that all parts have been sup-

plied as listed. And second, you’ll be sur-

prised at just how quickly handling the

parts allows you to better understand the

kit requirements. Try to visualize how

every part will look on the completed

model. Also, determine ahead of time

what must be done first. The instructions

will help you in this regard, but a thor-

ough knowledge of the plans at the outset

is essential.

3. Understanding Hull Lines

Beginners may not be familiar with hull

lines. Buttock lines are vertical longitudi-

nal planes cut through the hull.Water-

lines are horizontal planes, and sections

are transverse vertical planes. All of these

lines define the hull shape and are used

by the draftsman to fair the hull form

(create regular even curves). A complete

set of hull lines is shown on the plans.

for beginner and expert alike. This kit

contains a solid hull which has been

machined carved from select, medi-

um-hard, fine-grained basswood.

This style hull provides a quick and

easy lesson in the basic shapes and

proportions of hull design and helps

to develop woodworking skills.

Although the exterior of the Phantom

4. Kit Lumber

Your kit may contain European lime-

wood, as a substitute for the basswood

most of us are familiar with. Both woods

are similar in grain and workability. In

fact, limewood has superior bending qual-

ities. This will be helpful, since a few of

Phantom’s rails must be bent to the prop-

er curve. Following are three different

methods of bending and shaping wood.

hull has been carved close to the hull

lines as shown on the plans, further

It is suggested that all small fittings and

hardware be sorted into labeled boxes or

compartments to avoid loss during the

building process.

carving and sanding is necessary for

reasons of accuracy. Shaping and fin-

ishing the hull to its final shape are

1. The Plans

Three Plan Sheets and a Template Sheet

are provided:

1. Arrangement & Lines - Sheet 1 of 3

2. Rigging Plan - Sheet 2 of 3

3. Suggested Simplification of Rigging

Details - Sheet 3 of 3

4. Hull Templates on heavy paper stock

for hull carving

The Phantom kit is manufactured to a

scale of 1/8” = 1’ 0”. Plan sheets 1 and 2

are drawn to the exact scale that the

model is to be built, except where some

details have been enlarged for clarity.

Most dimensions can be lifted directly off

the plans by using a set of draftsman

dividers or by using a “tick” strip, which

is simply a piece of paper used to “pick

up” the dimensions (a roll of calculator

tape works very well). Lay your paper

strip over the plan and mark the lengths

of items carefully with a sharp pencil.

Then use the strip to transfer the marks to

the wood or item to be made to scale.

Steam bending - This is done by holding

the wood piece you wish to bend over a

kettle of steaming water and then bending

it. Hold the wood in position until it

cools. It should remain nearly in that posi-

tion, but may spring back slightly.

discussed in the instructions.

Constructing the Phantom model also

will provide you with the opportunity

to develop some scratch-building

techniques. During construction, you

may want to substitute some of the

Soaking - Another method is to soak the

piece in warm water for several hours.

Try adding a little household ammonia to

the water. You can also use pure ammo-

nia. This speeds up the soaking process

and makes the wood fibers slippery so the

wood can be easily bent. After soaking the

wood, shape it to the desired

position,using a form. Let it remain there

until it has dried completely.

kit fittings with your own creations.

By all means try them, especially if

you think you can improve the model.

If you are a beginner, take your time.

This model is fairly simple to build

but it still has a fair amount of detail

Hot iron - You may also bend wood

quickly over a soldering iron, but don’t let

it get too hot. Large soldering irons with a

tubular end is ideal. The tube near the

handle will not be as hot as the very end.

It is also possible to purchase model

plank-bending irons commercially. They

are designed for controlled heat.

and small parts. Make sure you com-

plete one stage before moving to the

next. When something goes awry,

2. Making Allowances

Along the Way

Try to be exact when following the plans,

but use common sense along the way. You

may need to make adjustments or allow

for small differences in how your model is

shaping up; perhaps your mast has too

much rake (the angle at which it sits).

When lines go to belaying points they

should not drape over parts or conflict

with other lines. If necessary, move a

belaying point or a fairlead. In other

words, put yourself on the ship and use

your judgement.

consider doing it over. Completing

this model will prepare you for a

5. Cast-Metal Fittings

The kit is supplied with Britannia metal

castings. The Britannia metal is a great

improvement over the white metal that

was used in some older kits. Unlike white

metal and pewter, Britannia does not con-

tain lead, so there are no possible corro-

sion problems. Many of these fittings,

however, will require final finishing

before they are suitable for installing on

the model.

more complicated model such as the

Sultana or Fair American. The

Sultana is another solid hull model,

but has more rigging and deck detail.

Fair American is outfitted with a

plank-on-bulkhead hull that will

Before painting the cast-metal fittings,

clean them up by removing all the mold-

joint flash. To do this, use a No. 11 hobby

blade to cut the flash, then file or sand it

take you to another level of difficul-

ty. In the meantime, happy modeling!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO START CONSTRUCTION

with fine sandpaper. It is also suggested

that you clean the fittings thoroughly with

warm soapy water before applying primer.

Make sure they are rinsed thoroughly and

allowed to dry before painting.

The following tools and supplies are recommended for the construction process.

Modelers who have built before may have their own favorites.

A. Knives

1. Hobby knife

2. No.11 blades

6. Soldering & Working

with Brass

The Phantom had some iron fittings that

you can make from brass which you sol-

der together. However, you may desire to

use the simplified methods shown on

plan sheet 3 to eliminate much of the sol-

dering. If you do solder, the secret is to

keep the parts to be soldered clean, and

keep the end of your soldering iron clean

and well tinned. File or sand the parts,

then keep your fingers off. Heat the parts

first, then touch the solder. File off any

excess solder.

B. Files

Set of needle files

C. Clamps

1. A few small C-clamps

2. Wooden clothespins

3. Rubber bands, #16 and #33

D. Tool Set (A small carving tool set or individual gouges and chisels

for shaping the hull.

E. Sharpening Stone (Necessary to keep tools razor sharp)

F. Boring Tools

1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80

2. 1/16”, 3/32” and 1/8” drills

3. Pin vise

G. Miscellaneous

1. Tack hammer

2. Tweezers (a few)

3. Small fine pointed scissors

4. Miniature pliers

a. small round

b. flat nose

5. Bench vise (small)

6. Soldering iron or torch

a. solder

b. flux

7. Sewing thread (for seizing; other rigging in kit)

a. black

b. tan

8. Beeswax block (for treating rigging lines)

9. 1/2” or 3/4” masking tape

10. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire and strip metal)

H. Sandpaper - Fine & medium grit garnet or aluminum oxide (#100 to #220)

I. Sail Cloth - Light weave cotton or linen cloth if you intend to add sails.

A suitable cotton cloth is available from Model Expo.

J. Finishing

1. Paint Brushes

a. fine point for details

b. 1/4” to 1/2” flat square for hull

K. Supplies (will be covered in detail in the Painting & Staining section and

throughout the instructions)

1. Paints

2. Primer

3. Stains and varnish

4. White or Carpenter’s (yellow) wood glue

5. Super glue

6. Five-minute epoxy glue

7. Wood filler

Note about glues: White glue, or Carpenter’s wood glue (yellow in color; also

available in tan color), will suffice for most of the model. Five-minute epoxy pro-

vides extra strength for gluing fittings. Cyanoacrylate glue (super glue), such as

Jet, can be used for quick adhesion and is ideal for adding a touch to a rigging

seizing to hold it in place. The best super glue for most applications is a medium

viscosity gap-filling type. The watery-thin type is recommended to fill a narrow

crack by capillary action. Contact cement or model airplane-type cement is best

for gluing the scribed deck sheeting. White glue will warp the wood sheet.

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