A244_v04.pdf

7. Two-piece Sleeve

7.1 Introduction of z values

OTMS

PIAS

Only after having created an absolutely perfect fit for the bodice block can the sleeve be developed

First the armhole then the sleeve!

Open a new part in part organisation and insert the lines required for the sleeve. The lines necessary

for an exact sleeve construction are visible in the bodice block. The armhole lines and auxiliary lines

must be entered into the z value menu.

z- value Description

Image

lower front armhole curve

upper front armhole curve

upper back armhole curve

lower back armhole curve

distance from scye line to sleeve pitch (line)

height armhole front

height armhole back

width armhole front

width armhole back

If the exclamation mark (as shown, here) is displayed when calling the sleeve, it indicates missing or

incomplete z value assignment. Only after having determined the z values the sleeve is called. The

draft of the sleeve head and the complete sleeve appear. The sleeve construction is described in the

following drafting instructions.The sleeve head is divided into 10 segments which match

the armhole. The lower front and back armhole curves are

divided by three. A total of 10 segments can

be found analogous to the sleevehead

(see sketch). Each segment of the sleeve

head has an x value for ease control. A line is

drawn at the front sleeve pitch. When measuring

this line the length of the line indicates the ease in

% to the user. The line drawn to the right gives

the total amount of ease of the sleeve in relation

to the armhole in mm. The line drawn downwards

at an angle is the auxiliary line for the mirrored

front sleeve curve from the application of the x values it is obvious

how the sleeve can be manipulated. The following body measurements are required: b Ar, u Oa, l Ar

7.2 Introduction of x values

x10

x11

upper sleeve head height in %

ease in segment A in %

ease in segment B in %

ease in segment C in %

ease in segment D in %

ease in segment E in %

ease in segment F in %

ease in segment G in %

ease in segment H in %

ease in segment I in %

ease in segment J in %

100

x- value

Description

Standard Value

OTMS

7. Two-piece Sleeve

7.2 Introduction of x values

x- value Description

surplus sleeve length

shoulder pad height

relocate hem

position sleeve head point in %

descent at back sleeve head in %

auxiliary point a for auxiliary lines for curve in %

auxiliary point b in %

auxiliary point c in %

auxiliary point d in %

auxiliary point e in %

auxiliary point f in %

auxiliary point g in %

auxiliary point h in %

additional ease for upper arm

shape underarm sleeve head curve

relocate sleeve pitch

shape position at front sleeve head curve in %

shape front sleeve head curve

wrist

position back seam at sleeve head in %

reduce back seam at elbow line

relocate back seam at elbow line

relocate back seam at wrist line

angle back seam to y axis in

angle sleeve hem to x axis in

relocate front seam at scye line

relocate front seam at elbow line

relocate front seam at wrist line

Standard Value

x12

x13

x14

x15

x16

x17

x18

x19

x20

x21

x22

x23

x24

x25

x26

x27

x28

x29

260

33,3

150

170

x30

x31

x32

x33

x34

x35

x36

x37

x38

x39

x40

x41

x42

x43

x44

x45

x46

x47

x48

x49

x50

x51

x52

x53

n otch position front seam

notch position elbow seam

shrinkage warp in %

shrinkage weft in %

shape upper back top sleeve seam

shape upper back undersleeve seam

position curve start undersleeve bk sleeve head in %

shape undersleeve sleeve head curve

shape-press length front top sleeve seam

shape back top sleeve seam from elbow line in %

shape back undersleeve seam from elbow line in %

reduce front seam at elbow line

move sleeve head point

side seam point from sleeve head point

PIAS

7. Two-piece Sleeve

7.3 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

OTMS

upper sleeve head height

(x 1)

The default setting is 100% sleeve head height

=½ (ft armhole height + bk armhole height) - 12mm,

i.e. changing the percentage of sleeve head height stretches or compresses the

sleeve head from the front sleeve pitch to the sleeve head point, only. The lower

sleeve head is not altered. Raising or shortening the sleeve head has no impact

on the width of the sleeve.

The ease is controlled via these 10 x values. The resulting ease is valued as a total

of 100%. These 100% are distributed between 10 segments so that the sum of x2

to x11 always has to amount to 100%.

The pre-set values are empirical values leading to a good fit. The user can

determine how to apply the ease.

ease of the individual segments (x2 )

to (x11)

surplus sleeve length

(x 12)

The default setting is 0, so that the distance of the sleeve head from the sleeve

pitch to the side seam point is adjusted perfectly to the armhole. With a

negative value the lower sleeve head height is increased or with a

positive value reduced. Thus, the upper sleeve head height is controlled

in % via x1 the lower sleeve head in mm via x12.

shoulder pad height

(x 13)

The default setting is 0, no shoulder pad. This value is to be determined in

conjunction with the bodice. The shoulder pad height is absorbed totally in

the sleeve length.

relocate hem

(x 14)

The default setting 0 reflects the wrist height on the body. With a positive value

the sleeve is shortened up to the elbow line, only. With a negative value the

sleeve can be lengthened.

position sleeve head point

(x 15)

The default setting is 57%. Increasing the value moves the sleeve head point

back, reduction moves it forward.

sleeve head descent

(x 16)

The default setting of 30% represents the normal descent. The sleeve head

descent is determined from the sleeve head point into the back sleeve head

(at the back sleeve head construction rectangle) and is stated in % of the total

sleeve head height. Increasing the value makes the sleeve head narrower as the

descent is steeper and vice versa.

auxiliary points

(x 17)

to (x 24)

T hese x values determine the auxiliary points for the auxiliary lines onto which

the sleeve head curve is bound.

additional ease upper arm

(x 25)

The default setting is 0, so that the upper arm width results from the z values

entered. The resulting upper arm width must be measured to check that the

width is acceptable. The ease in the upper arm should correspond with the ease

in the bust: ease upper arm girth = ½

to 1/3 ease bust girth. With a positive value the upper arm width is increased

and vice versa. A change of value results in a change of ease in the sleeve head.

Ausformung Unterärmelausstich (x 26)

The default setting is 20 and determines the shape of the sleeve head curve to

the seam point in the lower area of the back sleeve head. Increasing the value

makes the curve more hollow and thus, makes the sleeve narrower in the lower

sleeve head area. Reducing the value results in a shallower curve and a wider

sleeve.

PIAS

7. Two-piece Sleeve

7.3 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

relocate sleeve pitch

(x27)

During sleeve construction the sleeve pitch is determined at the sleeve head

rectangle in accordance with the distance to the upper arm girth line at the

armhole. A positive value moves the sleeve pitch in the positive y direction

(upwards) and vice versa.

shape position at fron

(x28)

The shape of the lower sleeve head curve to the seam point is determined via

the position of the point pre-set with 45%. Increasing the value moves the

point towards the side seam, the curve becomes more shallow and the sleeve

becomes narrower.

shape front sleeve head curve

(x29)

The default setting is 9. Increasing the value makes the curve more hollow

and vice versa.

Handweite

(x 30)

With this x value the wrist width can be controlled. The default setting is 260.

The following guide lines can be used for orientation:

wrist width for jacket sleeve:260 - 300 mm

wrist width for coat sleeve:280 - 320 mm

The wrist width should always be at least 60 mm larger than the measured

wrist girth.

position back seam at sleeve head (x31)

The default setting is 33.3%. Increasing the value moves the position of the

seam in negative y direction in the sleeve head. The value should be approx.

1/3 (total sleeve head height - sleeve head descent).

reduce back seam at elbow line (x32)

The default setting is 5 mm. The value controls the angle of the back sleeve

seam from the back sleeve head rectangle at the elbow line.

relocate back seam at elbow line (x33)

The relocation of the back sleeve seam from the back sleeve head rectangle

at the elbow is pre-set to 10 mm.

relocate back seam at wrist line (x34)

The relocation of the back sleeve seam at the wrist line towards the front is

pre-set to 0.

angle back seam

(x35)

The angle for the back sleeve seam to the y axis is pre-set to 12. The x value

controls the angle of the seam.

angle sleeve hem

(x36)

The angle for the sleeve hem to the x axis is pre-set to 9. This x value

controls the angle of the hem.

relocate front seam at scye line (x37)

The relocation of the front sleeve seam on the relocated scye line or upper

arm line is pre-set to 25 mm. Increasing the value reduces the width of the

undersleeve and increases the top sleeve width and vice versa.

relocate front seam at elbow line (x38)

The relocation of the front sleeve seam on the elbow line is pre-set to

20 mm.

relocate front seam at wrist line (x39)

The relocation of the front sleeve seam on the wrist line is pre-set to 20 mm.

The x value controls the distribution of the wrist width onto top sleeve and

undersleeve, i.e. wrist w top sl = ½ x30 + x39 and wrist w undersl = ½

x30 - x39. Thus, the wrist width of the top sleeve is 2*x39 larger than the wrist

OTMS

sleeve head curve

wrist

(x30)

Ärmelbruch auf L Eb

aufLHd

7. Two-piece Sleeve

7.3 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

OTMS

notch position front seam

(x 40)

T he position for the notches is pre-set to 150 mm. After shape-press the front

sleeve seams can lie correctly on top of each other.

notch position front elbow seam (x 41)

The position for the notches is pre-set to 170 mm to prevent moving of the

elbow seam.

shrinkage warp

(x 42)

The default setting is 0. This x value is a percentage value; when applied the

pattern is increased in y direction according to the amount given.

shrinkage weft

(x 43)

The default setting is 0. This x value is a percentage value; when applied the

pattern is increased in x direction according to the amount given.

shape upper top sleeve seam back (x44)

The shaping of the upper back top sleeve seam is pre-set to 7 mm and can be

altered as required with x44.

shape upper undersleeve seam

back

(x45)

The shaping of the upper back undersleeve seam is pre-set to 12 mm and can be

altered as required with x45.

curve start for back unders

leeve curve

(x 46)

The shape of the undersleeve sleeve head curve is determined via the position

of the point pre-set to 33%. Reducing the value moves the point towards the

side seam point and vice versa.

shape undersleeve sleeve head

curve

(x 47)

The length of the shaping line for the lower back sleeve head at an angle of 45

to L AV (relocated scye line or upper arm line) is pre-set to 5 mm. The direction

of the auxiliary point is set to an angle within the programme and cannot

be altered.

shape-press length front top

sleeve seam

(x 48)

The default setting is 3 mm. With a positive x value shape-press ensues between

the notches in the front top sleeve. The shape-press length depends on the

elasticity of the fabric.

shape back top sleeve seam

(x49)

The position for the shaping point is determined from the elbow line upwards

and is pre-set to 65%.

shape back undersleeve seam

(x50)

The position for the shaping point is determined from the elbow line upwards

and is pre-set to 55%.

reduce front seam

(x51)

The default setting is 15 mm. This x value controls the angle of the front sleeve

seam from the front sleeve head rectangle at the elbow line.

move sleeve head point

(x52 )

The default setting is 0. Increasing the value moves the sleeve head point to the

back. The sleeve head does not obtain additional width. When moving the

sleeve head point the side seam point should be considered.

side seam point from sleeve

head point

(x53 )

The default setting is 15 mm. Increasing the value moves the side seam point to

the front. When moving the sleeve head point the side seam point should be

moved to the front by the same amount.

PIAS

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