Bachelor's Chest linen Press.pdf

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Bachelor's Chest/
linen Press
his bachelor's chest was a prized piece of furni-
ture during the eighteenth century and has re-
mained so. The design, a linen press over a chest
of drawers, is English and was imported to America
more than 200 years ago. It's a large, functional and
attractive piece. The one I have chosen is a copy of one
made in Connecticut circa 1830. You can make it with
three shelves in the press section, or you can leave two
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of them out and use the piece as an entertainment cen-
ter; the top shelf will nicely accommodate a VCR and
the large opening a 19" television.
CONSTRUCTION OUTLINE
The piece is made in two parts, and for the sake of
mobility and convenience, the parts should remain sep-
arate, the upper section freestanding on the lower sec-
tion. For such a seemingly complicated piece, construc-
tion is relatively simple with a couple of exceptions.
The original was made from walnut. I don't think pine
was ever used. Still, there's no reason why it shouldn't
be used. I decided to use furniture grade throughout.
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into the sides; the plywood back is also set into rabbets.
The trim is fastened to the front with biscuits and glue,
and the crown is fastened to the top with glue and
screws. The hardware consists of reproduction brass
knobs and "H" hinges.
It's stable, predictable, easy to work and takes stain well.
The upper section, the press, is no more than a cup-
board with a single shelf (three, if you decide not to
make it as an entertainment center). The shelves are
dadoed into its sides; the top and bottom are rabbeted
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The bottom section is no more than a simple chest of
drawers with web frames dadoed into the sides. The top
is a board constructed from several smaller pieces of
stock; the grains are alternated for stability. The feet are
cut from single pieces of stock. The drawers are
constructed using half-blind and through dovetails.
BUILDING THE
DRAWER SECTION
STEP 1. Cut all the pieces to size and run the edges
through the jointer.
STEP 2. Build the boards that will make the sides, top
and bottom.
STEP 3. Build the four web frames as laid out in the draw-
ing—you can use biscuits, as I did, or lap joints. Note
the offsets, and also the frame, which has an extra
stretcher to carry the separator that will support the
drawers.
STEP 4. Mark the sides for stopped dadoes and top and
bottom stopped rabbets as laid out in the drawing.
STEP 5. Mill the stopped dadoes and rabbets. I used my
router, a 3/4" mortising bit and a T-square jig as described
in the Shop.
STEP 6. Mill 1/4"-deep rabbets to the inside back edges
of both sides; these will receive the plywood back.
When sanding the butt joints on the side section, or any butt
joints, use your belt sander and work first across the joint and
grain in a diagonal direction, and then finish with the belt sander
by working the machine along the direction of the grain.
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STEP 13. From the inside, glue and screw the feet to the
bottom of the carcass, making sure they are level and
true.
STEP 14. Make sure all the pieces for all five drawers are
exactly the right size, then using half-blind and through
dovetail joints, build the drawers. You can see how in
the Shop Tip.
BUILDING THE
PRESS SECTION
STEP 15 . Build the boards that will make the sides,
shelf (or shelves), top and bottom.
STEP 16. Mark the sides for dadoes and top and bottom
rabbets as laid out in the drawing.
STEP 17. Mill the dadoes and rabbets.
STEP 18. Mill 1/4"-deep rabbets to the inside back edges
of both sides to receive the plywood back.
STEP 19. Glue, clamp and toenail the shelf (or shelves),
top and bottom to the sides; make sure everything is
square, then set the structure aside until the glue is
fully cured.
STEP 20. Lay the carcass flat on its back on the bench,
put the trim in place and mark for biscuit slots. If you
don't use biscuits you can glue, clamp and nail the
pieces in place.
Finish sanding with your random orbital sander, making sure to
remove all the tool and belt marks, especially on the knots.
STEP 21. Remove the trim and mill the biscuit slots.
STEP 7. Glue, clamp and toenail the webs and bottom
board to the sides; make sure everything is square, and
then set the structure aside until the glue is fully cured.
STEP 8. Glue and screw the drawer separator in place
between the top and the top web frame as laid out in
the drawing.
STEP 9. Set the top board in place on the top web frame
and fasten it in place using ten no. 6 X 1 5/8" screws:
four at the back and front, and one at each end.
STEP 10. Use the scale pattern to mark the feet details.
STEP 11. Cut the miters to each end of the four pieces
of stock that will make the feet.
STEP 12. Use either your band saw or jigsaw to cut out
the feet.
Use your table saw or router table to mill the groove along the
front and sides of the drawer sections.
Copyright 2004 BM-MA
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