corsica-4-calvi-la-balagne.pdf

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CALVI •• The Balagne

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Calvi & La Balagne

Two of Corsica’s finest seaside towns, each with a gorgeous beach, an interior with scenery

that’s gentler on the eye than the starkness of so much of inland Corsica, rural hamlets that

ooze character and a southern coastal fringe with a hold-on-to-your-hat coastal drive: the

Balagne is almost a microcosm of the island.

Calvi, landing point for the tens of thousands who pour off the ferries from mainland

France and Italy and one of the first Corsican towns to embrace tourism, contrasts with

its quieter northern neighbour, Île Rousse. Linking them is the dinkiest train you’ve ever

bucked and swayed on, a great ride for its own sake and sole means of access to lots of

getaway beaches and coves.

Inland is another, more tranquil world where low hills unfurl eastwards from the coastal

plain to the Monte Cinto massif. Man has left his stamp upon the interior, often called the

‘garden’ or ‘orchard’ of Corsica, reflecting its fertile soil and mild microclimate. Citrus orchards

and ancient olive groves abound despite recurrent and devastating fires, the latest and among

the most disastrous as recently as 2005. The craft hamlets of Pigna and Lama; the fortress

villages of Speloncato and Sant’Antonino, each perched atop a knoll with heartstopping

360-degree views; Calenzana, starting point of two major long-distance trails and bustling

with walkers – these and others each tempt you to linger.

Too gentle for you? Need a little adrenalin pumping? Then take the coastal drive from Calvi

to Galéria. Both the scenery and thrill of the drive are heartstopping in equal measure.

HIGHLIGHTS

Scents of the Maquis

Linger in the Parc de Saleccia (p136), savouring the trees, shrubs

and flowers of the island

Seek Your Fortune

Explore the abandoned silver mine at

Argentella ( p135 )

Shopping

Snoop out local specialities along the Balagne

craft trail (p139)

Music Maestro

Bop with the best at the renowned jazz

festival in Calvi (p130) or hum to Corsican choral

singing at Festivoce in Pigna ( p144 )

Bump & Sway

Jump aboard the Tramways de Balagne (p133) for an unforgettable trip along the coastline

Parc de Saleccia

Tramways de Balagne

Pigna

Balagne Craft Trail

Calvi

Argentella

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CALVI •• History

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CALVI •• Information

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CALVI

pop 5200

The most dramatic way to arrive in Calvi,

‘capital’ of the Balagne region, is by boat

from mainland Europe, ideally as dawn bursts

above its backdrop of mountains. A thriving

little town, it stretches lazily along the bay

under the watchful eye of its citadel. It’s the

Corsican town that’s closest to the Mediterra-

nean coast of metropolitan France and, with

its thriving café culture, restaurants ringing

the port and sandy beach, it resembles any

number of the smaller towns along the French

Riviera.

Explore the lanes and alleys of the citadel,

dine at one of the restaurants that fringe quai

Landry, loll on the long strand of beach to

the south or indulge in some more strenuous

aquatic activity. Do reserve at least half a day to

jump aboard the Tramways de Balagne (see the

boxed text, p133) and trundle to Île Rousse and

back, stopping off at some delightful beaches

on the way. Calvi is also a major access point

for the villages of the Balagne interior (see the

driving route described on p139).

On the downside, the little town at-

tracts more holidaymakers than any other

Corsican destination except Porto-Vecchio

and the Ajaccio area. In July and August,

when the resident population swells to over

40,000, prices are correspondingly high and

hotels and camping grounds are stretched to

bursting.

HISTORY

It was in the 1st century AD that the Romans

laid the foundations of the town of Calvi, al-

though the Golfe de Calvi had been a port of

call for sailors from even earlier times. Sacked

subsequently by Barbary raiders, Calvi got

back on its feet under the Pisans between the

11th and the 13th centuries. Rivalries between

local lords, especially those from Cap Corse,

finally led the population to turn to Genoa

for protection in 1278. The then-powerful

republic on the Italian mainland could not

have asked for better luck and wasted no

time in turning the inhabitants of Calvi into

good Genoese citizens. Using Calvi as a base,

along with the southern town of Bonifacio

(which it already controlled), Genoa was

able to exert its power over the rest of the

island.

Calvi came to be so totally identified

with its loyalty to Genoa that many other

Corsican communities considered Calvi,

rather than Genoa, the oppressor. It was

under the Genoese that Calvi’s citadel was

built and fortified against the outside world.

Over the centuries of Genoese overlordship,

Calvi would nevertheless be put sorely to

the test.

In the mid-16th century Corsica was caught

up in the rivalry between Henri II of France

and Charles V of Spain (king of Spain and

also holy Roman emperor). In 1553 France

dispatched a squadron made up of French

troops and Turkish forces under the com-

mand of the Turkish privateer Dragut. This

fleet captured Bastia, St-Florent and Bonifacio

but failed to take Calvi. It was on this occa-

sion that Genoa gave the town its motto in

recognition: Civitas Calvi Semper Fidelis (City

of Calvi forever faithful).

ORIENTATION

The citadel – also known as the upper town

(haute ville) – is built on a promontory to

the northeast of the lower town (basse ville) ,

which is home to most of the town’s eat-

ing, sleeping and shopping options. The

hub of activity by day is centred around the

long beach that stretches southeast of town.

By night it transfers to quai Landry (along

the front of the marina) for bars, beers and

brasseries. Blvd Wilson is the main shopping

street and the place to find banks and shops.

Rue Alsace Lorraine, part of the small cob-

bled pedestrianised area, is worth a browse

for its handful of artisan workshops and craft

studios.

INFORMATION

Bookshops

Black ‘n’ Blue (20 blvd Wilson) French and a few

foreign-language books, guides, maps and a selection of

Corsican CDs.

Press’Info (av de la République) A good range of

French-language and foreign newspapers, magazines and

guidebooks.

CALVI

200 m

0.1 miles

L I G U R I A N S E A

To Notre Dame de la Serra

(4km); Pointe de la Revellata

(5.5km); Galéria (37.5km);

Porto via D81

(82km)

Haute Ville

(Citadel)

Pl Bel

Ombra

d'Armes

Basse Ville

Christophe

Colomb

Pl Docteur

Marchal

Corse Voyages....................... B2

EPIC....................................... A3

L'Hippocampe.....................(see 20)

Pl de

L'Église

Les Beaux Voyages Ticket

Office................................ A3

To Nice (80km);

Marseille (120km);

Savona (Italy, 120km)

Oratoire de la Confrérie

St-Antoine......................... C2

Pl de la

Porteuse

d'Eau

Plaque Marking Reputed Birthplace

of Christopher Columbus... C2

Port

Plaisance

Tour de Sel............................

SLEEPING

Train

Station

G o l f e

d e

C a l v i

Casa Vecchia.........................

Hôtel Belvédère...................... B2

Hôtel du Centre..................... B2

Hôtel Le Magnolia.................. B2

Hôtel Le Rocher..................... A3

Marina

(Port de

Plaisance)

EATING

INFORMATION

Aux Bons Amis....................... B3

Black 'n' Blue........................... A3

Best Of................................... B3

Café de I'Orient....................... B3

Covered Market..................... B3

Corsica 2B Informatique........... A3

Emile's.................................... B3

Emergency Medical Centre...... A4

L'Abri Cotier........................... B3

Laundrette............................... B3

Le Jardin..............................(see 28)

To Hôtel Les Aloes

(1.8km); Hôtel La

Villa (5km)

Laundrette............................... A5

Le Tire Bouchon..................... B2

Post Office............................... A3

U Callelu................................ B3

Press'Info................................. A3

U Fornu................................. A2

Seasonal Tourist Office

U Minellu............................... B2

Annexe............................(see 16)

Tourist Office.......................... A3

DRINKING

Chez Tao............................... C2

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

L'Havanita...........................(see 33)

A Scimia Calvese.................... B5

To Relais

International

de la Jeunesse

(2km)

Bastion Celle.......................... C2

TRANSPORT

Calvi Nautique Club............... A4

Europcar................................ A3

N197

Calvi Plongée......................... B3

Ferry Quay............................ C2

To Camping

Paduella (1.5km);

Camping La Pinède (1.5km);

Hôtel Cyrnea (1.5km); A Cavallu Riding

Centre (2km); La Camargue (2.5km);

Calvi-Ste-Catherine Airport (6.5km);

Calenzana (10km); Algajola (17km);

Île Rousse (24km)

Caserne Sampiero.................. C2

Garage d'Angeli..................... B2

Cathédrale St-Jean Baptiste.... C2

Hertz...................................... B3

Citadel Entrance..................... B2

Les Beaux Voyages Bus Stop.. A3

Club de Plongée Castille......... B3

Super U Carpark....................(see 6)

Colombo Line......................... B3

Taxi Rank..............................

Laundry

Laundrette (10 blvd Wilson; h 7am-10pm)

Laundrette (av Christophe Colomb; h 7.30am-10.30pm)

Above Super U car park.

Post

Post office (cnr blvd Wilson & av de la République)

Internet Access

Café de l’Orient (16 quai Landry; €1 connection plus per

min €0.10; h 10am-midnight) Quayside café with a set

of computer terminals.

Corsica 2B Informatique (av Santa Maria; per hr €3;

h 9.15am-9pm Mon-Sat, 3.30-9pm Sun) Half the price

and twice as fast.

Tourist Information

Tourist office ( % 04 95 65 16 67; www.balagne-corsica

.com in French; port de plaisance; h 9am-12.30pm &

3-6.30pm daily Jul & Aug; 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat

May, Jun, Sep & Oct; 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr)

Medical Services

Emergency Medical Centre ( % 04 95 65 11 22; rte

du Stade; h 24hr) Off rte de Santore.

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Covers Calvi and all La Balagne. English-language website

under construction at the time of writing.

Seasonal tourist office annexe ( h 10am-1pm &

3-6pm Tue-Sat Jul & Aug, 11am-6pm Tue-Sat Jun & Sep)

Just inside the citadel; offers audio-guided tours (€7).

SIGHTS

Citadel

For superb wraparound views of Calvi and

its bay, haul yourself up to the citadel. Built

at the end of the 15th century by the Genoese,

it towers over the town from atop its 80m-

high granite promontory. A handful of cafés

and restaurants set out tables in the shadow

of its ochre walls but, unlike its Bonifacio

counterpart, it’s not an integral part of the

town and most of its buildings are closed to

the public. All the same, it more than merits

the climb, not least for the spectacular view

it offers across the Golfe de Calvi.

Pass through the entrance arch, just off place

Christophe Colomb, with the town’s motto in-

scribed above it. From here little alleyways lead

steeply upwards to the place d’Armes, with

the former Palais des Gouverneurs Génois

(Genoese Governors’ Palace) on the left. This

imposing building, renamed Caserne Sampiero ,

was built by the Genoese in the 13th century

and extended during the 16th. It serves as the

barracks and mess hall for the French Foreign

Legion (see the boxed text, below).

The Cathédrale St-Jean Baptiste is on the other

side of the place d’Armes, halfway up a lit-

tle alley. This 13th-century church narrowly

escaped obliteration when an adjacent powder

store exploded in 1567; it was rebuilt and con-

secrated as a cathedral in 1576. The dome is

superb and the interior boasts a high altar of

polychrome marble dating from the 17th cen-

tury, to the right of which is the Christ des Mira-

cles (Christ of The Miracles). This ebony statue

has been venerated since the town was besieged

in 1553. According to legend, the ships of the

besieging Franco-Turkish forces simply turned

tail and sailed back out to sea after the popula-

tion of Calvi carried the statue in a procession

through their streets. The Vierge du Rosaire

(Virgin of the Rosary) statue has three different

robes: a black one for Good Friday, a purple one

for the Wednesday after Palm Sunday and a rich

brocade cloth for use in processions. The nave

is now often used to host polyphonic singing

(p40) evenings in summer.

Retrace your steps to the place d’Armes and

take a little street to the left to come to the Ora-

toire de la Confrérie St-Antoine (Oratory of the St Antoine

A CALVIAN CALLED COLUMBUS?

Place Christophe Colomb, ave Christophe Colomb, a commemorative plaque to mark the 500th

anniversary of the discovery of the Americas… Calvi latches on to the memory of Columbus,

discoverer of the New World, as Ajaccio venerates Napoleon and Île Rousse celebrates Pascal Paoli.

Why, there’s even a plaque in Calvi’s citadel that claims to mark the explorer’s birthplace. A little

72-page book, Christophe Colomb , Corse , written by Joseph Chiara and available from the Calvi

tourist office (but only in French, regrettably), makes the case for Columbus’ Calvian birth.

Roger Caratini, however, in his masterly Histoire du Peuple Corse (1995), mocks the Corsican

‘amateur historians’ who have made ‘dogma’ of Columbus’ Calvian origins. All serious scholars

and documents agree, Caratini asserts, that Columbus was the son of a Genoese weaver; the first

person to argue the case for Columbus’ birth in Calvi, in the mid-19th century, was a ‘credulous

churchman’.

But Chiara believes that Columbus’ birth in Genoa (distinct from his undisputed Genoese

‘citizenship’) will itself never be more than a hypothesis. He suggests that when Columbus went

looking for underwriting at the Spanish court, he would have blown his chances by admitting

to being of Calvian origin since the Calvians had massacred a Spanish garrison, thus putting an

end to Spanish ambitions in Corsica. Chiara’s arguments, supported by reference to Columbus’

name and own recorded use of language, have irresistible romantic appeal.

There’s something more at stake for Corsica in the dispute. If Corsica gave the world Napoleon

but not Columbus, well, maybe it was just chance. If Corsica gave the world both Napoleon

and Columbus, then there begins to be a pattern, which could be seen to indicate an inherent

Corsican desire to dream more boldly and travel further than other ethnic groups. What’s certain

is that, wherever Columbus himself might have been born, there were a lot of Calvians among

his crews, and by the mid-16th century Calvians were living in the New World in numbers out

of all proportion to the Corsican population.

Brotherhood; h 10am-6pm) , a charitable institution

that has been active in Corsica since the 14th

century. Behind the façade, which features

a primitive slate lintel depicting the abbot St

Antoine, are walls painted with 15th- and 16th-

century frescoes (some, alas, severely time-

worn) and, on the north wall, an ivory Christ

attributed to the Florentine sculptor Jacopo

d’Antonio Tati, known as Le Sansevino .

The citadel has five bastions , each offering

wonderful seascapes. One of the most famous

attacks on the citadel came in 1794 when the

town, which Genoa had ceded to France 30

years earlier, came under attack from the Brit-

ish army and Corsican separatist forces led by

Pascal Paoli. It was heavily bombarded and

largely destroyed during the battle, which cost

Admiral Horatio Nelson his right eye. Follow-

ing the onslaught, Calvi eventually capitulated

and ceded to the combined forces. The Anglo-

Corsican kingdom was short-lived, however,

and Calvi returned to French control no more

than two years later.

Near Bastion Celle in the northwest corner

is a marble plaque marking the alleged birth-

place of Christopher Columbus (see the boxed

text, above).

At the far end of the ferry quay, and stand-

ing in the shadow of the citadel, is the Tour de

Sel , built for defence and subsequently used

as the town’s salt store.

THE FRENCH FOREIGN LEGION

In the lanes of the citadel or around the port, you’ll probably come across members of the

Deuxième Régiment Étranger de Parachutistes (REP) of the Légion Étrangère (Foreign Legion),

cutting a swathe through the tourists and enjoying some off-duty time from Camp Raffali, their

military base out near Calvi’s airport. These burly recruits are the latest incarnation of the French

Foreign Legion, an elite body of crack troops for whom a tour of duty in one of the world’s

danger spots is second nature.

You’ll spot them by their distinctive garb: on their close-cropped heads, a white pillbox-shaped

képi or green beret with the Legion’s winged-hand-and-dagger emblem, red shoulder epaulettes

and a green tie (implausibly, the symbol of celibacy!).

The Legion is a career choice that has been shrouded in mystery ever since King Louis Philippe

founded the force in 1831, principally to add extra punch to the conquest of Algeria.

Many of the myths of the Legion now look rather outdated but there are two maxims that

still hold true: anonymity is guaranteed and, in return for five years of service, soldiers can earn

French citizenship – not to mention a decent wage. That’s why many of today’s recruits who

put themselves through the notoriously challenging entrance exam hail from the war-torn Baltic

States and disparate fragments of the former Soviet Republic.

The secretive nature of the force still persists, although since troops have recently seen ac-

tion in Kosovo and Sierra Leone, these days it’s trying to be more transparent to a public still

fascinated by the romance of the Legion’s legacy. Calvi’s Camp Raffali opens its doors to the

public twice yearly – on 30 April and 29 September – giving a rare glimpse of the daily life of

the 1000-odd legionnaires based here.

The April opening coincides with a major procession of the regiment through the streets of

Calvi with recruits dressed in all their finery (including a blue belt a full 4.2m long).

ACTIVITIES

Beaches

Calvi’s lovely sandy beach stretches around the

bay southeastwards for 4km from the marina.

The Tramways de Balagne railway (p133)

links Calvi to a series of charming smaller

beaches that punctuate the coast all the way

to Algajola and beyond to Île Rousse.

Boat Trips

Between April and October Colombo Line ( % 04

95 65 32 10; www.colombo-line.com in French) organises

excursions in glass-bottomed boats from its

kiosk-style office right on the harbour. There

are three tours to choose from, each taking in

the magnificent Réserve Naturelle de Scan-

dola (p152).

Tour 1 (adult/child €55/28; h 9.15am-3pm daily

May-Sep) Sails via the Réserve Naturelle de Scandola to

Girolata, where it makes a two-hour stop.

Tour 2 (adult/child €44/22; h 2.30-5.15pm daily

Apr-Oct) To explore the Réserve Naturelle de Scandola.

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CALVI •• Tours

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CALVI •• Eating

131

Tour 3 (adult/child €70/35; h 9am-5.30pm once or

twice weekly April–mid-Oct) Sails via the Réserve Naturelle

de Scandola to Ajaccio, with a three-hour stopover.

can mix and pick) of guided rides, lessons

or (for experienced riders) bareback riding

through the surf. The centre is 500m down

a dusty track, left of the N197 about 2km

from the centre of town in the direction of

the airport.

TOURS

Between April and September, Corse Voyages

( % 04 95 65 00 47; blvd Wilson) , in conjunction with

Autocars Mariani, offers coach trips from

Calvi. Destinations, in order of their day of

departure, include the following:

Forêt de Bonifatu (half-day €15; h departs 1.45pm Mon)

Maquis circuit (full-day tour of the interior €27;

h departs 7am Tue)

Villages of the Balagne (half-day €16.50; h departs

1.45pm Wed)

Cap Corse (full-day €27; departs 7.30am Thu)

by contrast are mostly spacious with broad

pitches and excellent facilities.

fresh furniture, attractive fabrics, marble bath-

rooms, flat-screen televisions and balconies.

Its three mezzanine rooms (€105 to €200)

have views of the gulf and can accommodate

up to four people.

Hôtel La Villa ( % 04 95 65 10 10; www.hotel-lavilla

.com; chemin de Notre Damede la Serra; 2-person villas €200-

450; pais ) In a secluded location in the

hills overlooking Calvi and set in gorgeous

gardens, its raft of inhouse facilities includes

four pools, a fitness centre, a beach club with

water-sports equipment and a Michelin-

starred restaurant. There are also suites and

apartments – even a helipad, should you pre-

fer to leave the car at home.

Hotels

Hôtel du Centre ( % 04 95 65 02 01; 14 rue Alsace Lorraine;

d €29-46, tr €36-55; h Jun-Sep) Built in the 19th

century as a police station and barracks, this

simple option is the best budget place in the

heart of town. Its whitewashed rooms have

basic furniture, shower and washbasin; toilets

are in the corridor. The welcome’s friendly

despite the handwritten exhortations that

plaster reception. It doesn’t take credit cards.

There’s also a two-person studio (€235 to €330

per week). Reception’s open all day but closes

promptly at 9pm.

Hôtel Cyrnea ( % 04 95 65 03 35; www.hotelcyrnea

.com; rte de Bastia; s €48-55, d €54-74, tr €72-92, q €86-

112; h year-round; pnas ) Most of the 41

rooms at this great-value hotel beside Camp-

ing Paduella have a spacious balcony and all

have double-glazing. Those facing the rear,

towards the mountains, have the best views.

Reception staff are welcoming and speak good

English.

Hôtel Belvédère ( % 04 95 65 01 25; place Christo-

phe Colomb; d €45-115, tr €70-130; h year-round a )

Overlooking place Christophe Colomb at the

foot of the citadel, and looking fresh after a

recent refit, the Belvédère has 27 smallish but

comfortable rooms, some with magnificent

views of the bay. It’s a particular bargain out

of season, when prices fall as low as €45.

Casa Vecchia ( % 04 95 65 09 33; www.hotel-casa-vec

chia.com in French; rte de Santore; s €50-60, d €55-85; h year-

round; p ) Near the centre of town, Casa Vec-

chia is really several houses, set in and around

a dusty mature compound with an almost

colonial feel. The two-storey hotel building at

its heart has large rooms. Two other houses

consist of apartments that can be rented by the

week while the Maison Corse (minimum stay

one week in July and August) has rooms with

corridor facilities (single/double €40/45).

Hôtel Le Magnolia ( % 04 95 65 19 16; www.hotel-le

-magnolia.com in French; rue Alsace Lorraine; r €60-120;

pa ) Converted from a 19th-century man-

sion and overlooking a vine-shaded garden, Le

Magnolia is a charming spot with 12 rooms,

each decorated in a different style, which are

comfortable and well furnished.

Hôtel Le Rocher ( % 04 95 65 20 04; www.hotel-le

-rocher.com in French; blvd Wilson; r €70-170; h mid-

Apr–mid-Oct; pa ) The 20 spacious rooms of

this central, recently made-over hotel all have

Adventure Trail

Beside the coast among the pines, A Scimia

Calvese (adult/child €18/15; h 9.30am-7.30pm daily Jul &

Aug, 3-7.30pm Wed Easter-Jun, Sep & Oct) is an exhilar-

ating, elevated, 700m-long climbing struc-

ture of bridges, ladders, beams, logs, pulleys

and cables. It’s run by the adventure sports

company Altore ( % 06 83 39 69 06; www.altore.com

in French). To the east of Calvi along the D151

between Montemaggiore and Cateri, Altore

(it’s the Corsican word for ‘bearded vulture’)

also offers introductory flights and paraglid-

ing courses.

Hostels

Relais International de la Jeunesse ( % 04 95 65 14 16;

dm incl breakfast €15, with half-board €25; h Apr–mid-Nov;

p ) Unless you’re driving (if so, leave your

car at the last bend and continue on foot),

it’s a good 45-minute uphill walk from the

port to this hostel – but it’s worth every step.

Here, way above the town, the panorama is

unbeatable, bar drinks, soft, long and shorts,

are all €1 and the place is friendliness itself.

A couple of dorms sleep 11 but there are also

smaller rooms for two, three and five, some

with en suite facilities.

Diving

The waters off Calvi offer plenty of scope for

diving (including the chance to explore the

wreck of a WWII B-17 bomber), whatever

your level. Typical prices including equipment

hire: introductory dive (€40), beginner’s course

(€230 to €280), open-water course (€380). The

following are all based at the marina.

Calvi Plongée ( % 04 95 65 33 87; www.calviplongee

.com in French) Based on a boat moored to the quayside.

Club de Plongée Castille ( % 04 95 65 33 67; www

.plongeecastille.com)

EPIC (École de Plongée Internationale de Calvi; % 06 13

38 61 26; h year-round)

L’Hippocampe ( % 04 95 60 57 74; www.hippocampe2b

.fr) Visit their great website for a virtual dive.

Les Beaux Voyages ( % 04 95 65 11 35; www.lesbeaux

voyagesencorse.com in French; résidence le Vieux Chalet) or-

ganises a similar set of excursions with almost

identical prices. Both companies offer reduced

fares for children.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Calvi is big on festivals, mostly held during

summer months.

Processions de la Semaine Sainte Fervent Holy Week

celebrations; late March early April.

St-Érasme The blessing of the fishing boats every 2 June.

Rencontres d’Art Contemporain Works by

contemporary painters and sculptors are exhibited in the

citadel throughout the summer between mid-June and

mid-September.

Calvi Jazz Festival ( % 04 95 65 16 67; www.calvi-jazz

-festival.com in French) Open-air and indoor concerts plus

a range of jam sessions featuring big names from the

international jazz scene; held on the June long weekend.

Calvi on the Rocks Three days of electronic and

experimental music in mid-July that pull in international

acts (Neny Cherry, for example, in 2005).

Rencontres de Chants Polyphoniques ( % 04 95 65

16 67) Festival of polyphonic singing held at various venues

in the citadel in mid-September.

Festival du Vent ( % 01 53 20 93 00; www.lefestivaldu

vent.com) An annual festival celebrating the role of the

wind in the arts, science and sport; held in late October.

SLEEPING

In high season, be sure to book a room in

advance or you risk finding yourself on the

beach. At this time, hotels are expensive com-

pared to mainland France. Camping grounds,

Camping

Camping Paduella ( % 04 95 65 06 16; www.camping

paduella.com; rte de Bastia; camp sites per adult/tent/car

€7/2.70/2.70; h mid-May–mid-Oct) This friendly,

well-maintained camping ground is a 300m

walk from the beach. Shaded by mature trees,

it has impeccable washrooms, scrubbed sev-

eral times daily, with some individual cubi-

cles. It also has fully equipped tents for hire

(€46 to €72 for two to six persons, high season

minimum rental one week).

Camping La Pinède ( % 04 95 65 17 80; www.camping

-calvi.com; rte de Bastia; camp sites per adult/tent/car

€8.50/3/3; h Apr-Oct) At the heart of a pine and

eucalyptus wood and a short stroll from the

beach, this attractive choice has a pool and a

couple of tennis courts. It also rents caravans

(€27.50 to €70.50 for two to four persons) and

chalets (€60 to €172 for two to six persons).

EATING

Restaurants

Le Tire Bouchon ( % 04 95 65 24 41; rue Clemenceau; mains

€9-16; h Apr-Oct) This cheerful, animated option,

as much wine bar as restaurant, is a delight.

Also see p79 for more information about

diving.

Windsurfing & Sailing

Calvi Nautique Club ( % 04 95 65 10 65; www.calvinc

.org in French; h May-Oct) , at the northern tip of

the beach, rents windsurfers (€15 per hour),

funboards (€21 per hour) and single or double

kayaks (€10/15 per hour).

In July and August it runs courses (Mon-

day to Friday, two hours per day) in sailing

(Optimist; €157), windsurfing (€157) and

catamaraning (€197).

Horse Riding

A Cavallu Riding Centre ( % 04 95 65 22 22; www.a

-cavallu.com in French; h year-round) offers trail rides

(€20 per hour) and lessons. Confirmed cow-

boys and cowgirls should consider its carnet

(€160), which entitles you to 10 hours (you

132

CALVI •• Drinking & Entertainment

lonelyplanet.com

AROUND CALVI •• Pointe de la Revellata

133

Order from the dishes of the day, posted on

the chalkboard, and treat yourself to a glass of

the finest AOC wine, available by the glass.

U Fornu ( % 04 95 65 27 60; impasse Bertoni; mains

€16-21, menu €16; h Mon-Sat, dinner Sun Apr-Dec) Raised

above blvd Wilson on a shady terrace with

candles set into the wall, this little eatery of-

fers mainly Corsican dishes. Its dining room

is in what was once a small, pleasantly vaulted

bakery. It doesn’t accept credit cards.

U Minellu ( % 04 95 65 05 52; traverse de l’Église; mains

€17-19, menu Corse €17; h mid-Mar–mid-Oct, closed Mon

except Jul & Aug) This small family-run place

with its vaulted ceiling and exterior tables

beneath a lantern-lit wooden canopy is down

a tight alley, just off rue Alsace Lorraine. It

offers a good-value menu and a decent range

of AOC Corsican wines. The menu Corse

includes specialities such as brocciu cannel-

loni, Corsican cooked pork, and chestnut

and apple cake.

L’Abri Cotier ( % 04 95 65 12 76; rue Joffre; mains €17-

25, menus €21-35; h Apr–mid-Nov; v ) It’s safer to

reserve at this popular spot, just off the quay-

side; ask for one of the coveted tables beside

the panoramic window, one floor up and lord-

ing it over the restaurant terraces below. The

cuisine is imaginative (try, for example the

sea bass accompanied by a basil flan) and

the house desserts are a dream (save a corner

for their chestnut ice cream with toffee sauce).

It also does a vegetarian platter.

Aux Bons Amis ( % 04 95 65 05 01; rue Clemenceau;

mains €18-22, menus €17-26; h Apr-Sep, closed Wed except

Jul & Aug) With its nautically themed décor, Aux

Bons Amis has a short, select à la carte choice

and serves up the best of fresh fish and sea-

food. Two downsides: the flickering TV is an

intrusion, even though the sound’s turned off;

and the house white is best avoided…

Le Jardin ( % 04 95 65 08 02; rue Alsace Lorraine; mains

€18-24, menus €21) This restaurant, which adjoins

the Hôtel Le Magnolia, serves good, whole-

some Corsican food with a nod towards haute

cuisine .

U Callelu ( % 04 95 65 22 18; quai Landry; mains around

€25, menus €20; h Mar-Oct, closed Mon except Jul & Aug)

This quayside restaurant has an attractive

beige interior with a floral theme. Renowned

for the quality and variety of its fresh fish

dishes, it also offers attentive service.

Émile’s ( % 04 95 65 09 60; quai Landry; mains €20-40,

menus €40-60; h Mar–mid-Nov) Keep your eyes open

for Emile’s, up an easily overlooked flight

of steps that leads from the quayside to its

1st-floor panoramic terrace. Here at Calvi’s

choicest restaurant you’ll enjoy a sophisticated

gastronomic experience; why, even the menu

reads like a book of poetry.

TRAMWAYS DE BALAGNE

Every year the spectacular beaches and hidden coves of the Balagne coastline suddenly come to

life with the first beach towel of summer. The lifeline that connects these isolated coves is the

Tramways de Balagne, an offshoot of Chemins de Fer de la Corse (p272).

This bone-shaking little train trundles between Calvi and Île Rousse up to nine times daily

between April and October, calling at 15 stations en route. All stops are request-only with bronzed

groups of bathers and hikers popping out from behind a rock to hail the iron horse as she chugs

slowly by. Someone will come around during the trip to collect the fare and make a note of

where you want to get off.

There has been talk for years of improving the rolling stock but so far little has changed. All

to the good; it’s the train’s uniquely lo-fi quality that is the main source of its charm. Indeed,

rail enthusiasts from all over the world now converge on Calvi to ride the Tramways de Balagne

before she is finally put out to pasture.

The one-way/return fare from Calvi to Île Rousse (50 minutes) is €4.50/8. If you’re likely to be

making multiple journeys, such as return day trips from Calvi to the Balagne beaches, consider

buying a carnet of six tickets (€8). The line is divided into three sectors and you peel off one

ticket per sector.

Quick Eats & Self-Catering

Best Of (1 rue Clemenceau; sandwiches €4-7; h 11.30am-

10pm) If you’re looking for a snack on the

move, call by here to pick up some original

sandwiches, paninis and wood-fired bread

topped with local specialties.

Covered market ( h 8am-noon Mon-Sat) Calvi’s

small market has plenty of pickings for self-

caterers with its richly scented local sausages

and tempting desserts.

DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT

L’Havanita (quai Landry; h from 6pm) This tiny shack

of a place is down by the waterfront, squashed

between a couple of restaurant terraces. It’s a

pleasant place to enjoy a drink and savour a

background drift of Latino music.

Chez Tao ( % 04 95 65 00 73; rue St-Antoine; h 9pm-

5am May-Oct) Within the citadel walls and oc-

cupying what was once the palace of the

bishops of Sagone, Chez Tao is a hip piano

bar that’s a Corsican institution. The lavishly

decorated venue was conceived in 1935 by

Tao Kanbey de Kerekoff, who served in a

White Cavalry regiment during the Russian

revolution, then, defeated in battle, headed

west, winding up on the island. Nowadays,

it’s run in the same opulent, flamboyant style

by his son, Tao-By, who tickles the ivories,

playing a mix of French and Corsican songs

and melodies plus international favourites.

Drinks are from €10.

La Camargue ( % 04 95 65 08 70; rte de Bastia; h Apr-

Sep) About 2.7km from town heading towards

Île Rousse and just before the airport turnoff,

La Camargue has a pool, piano-bar and open-

air dance floor. In high summer there’s a free

shuttle bus from town.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Air

Calvi-Ste-Catherine airport ( % 04 95 65 88 88; www

.calvi.aeroport.fr) is 7km southeast of town. There

are at least four flights daily to Nice, Marseille

and Paris (Orly). Since the runway is so close

to the mountains, flights are sometimes redir-

ected to Bastia when winds are exceptionally

high. There is no bus service from Calvi to the

airport. A taxi ( % 04 95 65 03 10) to/from town

costs around €20.

Boat

Corsica Ferries ( % 08 25 09 50 95; www.corsicaférries

.com) has services to Nice (at least three times

weekly May to August) and to Savona in Italy

(once weekly July and August).

The ferry terminal is below the southern

side of the citadel. You can buy tickets at the

port two hours before departure or from Les

Beaux Voyages ( % 04 95 65 11 35; www.lesbeauxvoyages

encorse.com in French; place de la Porteuse d’Eau) .

For more information on ferry crossings,

see the Transport chapter (p267).

Train

From Calvi’s train station ( % 04 95 65 00 61) there

are two departures daily to Bastia (€15.70,

three hours) and Ajaccio (€24.10, five hours)

via Corte (€13.10, three hours); all journeys

require a change at Ponte Leccia. For Île

Rousse, take the Tramways de Balagne (see

the boxed text, above).

GETTING AROUND

Bicycle

Garage d’Angeli ( % 04 95 65 02 13; www.garagedangeli

.com in French; place Christophe Colomb) rents moun-

tain bikes (€13/36/73 for one/three/seven

days).

Bus

Les Beaux Voyages runs a regular bus ser-

vice, Monday to Saturday, from Calvi to

Bastia (€15, 1½ hours), Île Rousse (€3.50, 30

minutes) and Ponte Leccia (€9, one hour).

Between Monday and Saturday in July and

August it also has a once daily service to

Galéria (€6.50, 1¼ hours) and twice daily

to Calenzana (€6, 20 minutes). Buses leave

across the road from their offices on place

de la Porteuse d’Eau.

From mid-May to mid-October, Autocars

Ceccaldi ( % 04 95 22 41 99) runs one bus daily

(€17, 2½ hours) to/from Porto via Col de la

Croix, start of the footpath for Girolata (see

the boxed text, p152). It leaves from beside

the Super U car park at 1.30pm.

Except in July and August, there are no

buses on Sunday.

Taxi

There’s a taxi rank ( % 04 95 65 30 36) on place de la

Porteuse d’Eau. Taxis run excursions for two

to four people to the Forêt de Bonifatu (€35),

Galéria (€55) and Calenzana (€23).

AROUND CALVI

Three kilometres west of Calvi along the D81B

(direction Galéria and Porto), you have a

tempting choice of two splendid panoramas.

POINTE DE LA REVELLATA

This outcrop of land, across the Golfe de la

Revellata from Calvi’s citadel quarter, offers a

foretaste of the still wilder and more beautiful

coastline that lies beyond along the D81B (see

the boxed text, p134).

Car

For car rental, see p270.

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