tonia shorts instructions.pdf

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Microsoft Word - Tonia7909.doc
Pattern Pieces
1 Front Pant Piece
2X
2 Pocket
2x
3 Hip Yoke Piece
2x
4 Back Pant Piece
2x
5 Waistband
2x
6 Pocket
2x
7 Cuff
2x
8 Belt Loops
1x
Copy Paper with DinA4 Print:
The pattern pieces are printed with a narrow border onto 24 pages. Wait until all pages are printed. Arrange
the pages as depicted in the page with instructions on how to put the pages together.
Cut the pages at the upper right edge along the narrow border. Start with the lower left page and glue the
pieces together at the border lines.
Choose the size of the patter according to the Burda measurement chart. The sizes for dresses, Blouses,
Jackets and Coats are determined by the bust measurement, the sizes for pants and skirts are determined by
the hip measurement.
Adjust, if necessary, if your measurements differ from the Burda measurement chart.
Cut the pattern pieces for your size.
⇒Upper Waistline: 2 cm below the waist.
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Sizes 34 to 46
In part 1, the stitching line is depicted for a size 32. For other sizes, draw the stitching
line, ending at the slit marking, at the same distance of the front middle.
Lengthening or Shortening the Pattern
Our cut is designed for a height of 168 cm. (5 feet 5 inches). If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the
pattern at the lines that say, “shorten or lengthen here”. That way, the fit remains the same.
⇒Always change all pattern pieces at the same line and the same length.
How to shorten or lengthen your pattern
Cut the pattern lines at the marked lines.
To lengthen: Push the pieces apart as far as necessary.
To shorten: Push the pieces together as far as necessary.
Adjust the side edges.
Cutting out
Fabric Fold (-----) means : This is the middle of a pattern pieces, not an edge or a seam. The piece is cut
twice the size of the pattern; the selvage is the middle axis of the piece.
The pattern pieces with interrupted outlines are placed onto the fabric with the printed side facing
down. The cutting plans show how to arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric.
If fabric is not folded , pin the pattern pieces to the right side.
If fabric is folded, pin the pattern pieces with the right side of the fabric facing inside. Pin pattern pieces
on wrong side.
Place cutting plan over the selvage, finally, cut with fabric not folded.
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Seam and Hem Allowances are included in the
pattern:
1.5 cm (1/2 inch) at all edges and seams
With Burda copy paper, transfer the lines and
marking on the pieces onto the wrong side of the
fabric. Instructions are included in the package.
Interfacing
Cut interfacing according to drawings and iron
onto the wrong side of the fabric.
Sewing
When sewing, the right sides of the fabric are
facing.
All lines within the pattern pieces should be
transferred onto the right sides of the fabric with
batching stitches.
Pants
Darts
1.) Stitch darts of the back pant pieces from
edge toward point.Tie thread. Iron dart
to the back middle. (1a).
Pockets
2.) Trim edges. Turn trimming outside at
the wrap line. Stitch small edges onto
the pocket. Fold over trimming and
seam allowances
3.) Lay pleats of the front pant pieces in the
direction of the arrow. Pin.
Hip Yoke Pockets
4.) Place pocket right sides facing onto the
front pant piece. Pin pocket edges
Onto each other (seam number 1) and
stitch. Fold over and pin pocket to the
inside. Iron edge and stitch, allowing
0.7cm (1/4 inch) (4a).
5.) Pin the front pant piece to the hip yoke
piece so that the opening of the pocket
Meets with the line marked BASE, right
sides of the pocket and the hip yoke are
facing. Adjust the pocket opening, pin
as depicted.
6.) Place the pocket piece onto the hip yoke
piece; do not take in the front pant
piece.Stitch. De-baste seam allowances
held together. Pin the side, upper and
front edges of the hip yoke pieces onto
the front pant piece. Pay attention: At
the right hip yoke piece, cut the seam
allowance of the front edge at the front
middle (arrow)
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Side Seams/ Inner Leg Seams
7.) Place front pant pieces right sides facing
onto the back pant pieces. Stitch side seams
(seam number 2), pin inner leg seams (seam
number 3). Stitch seams. Trim seam
allowances and finish.
Front Middle Seam
8.) Turn one pant leg. Push pant legs into each
other, right sides facing. Stitch middle seam
from the slit marking until you reach the
inner seam lines. Secure seam ends.
Cut back the seam allowances at the
rounded edge. Trim seam allowances; also
trim them at the front trimmings and the
back middle seam.
9.) Pin the trimming of the right front pant
piece to the inside of the front middle.
At the left front pant piece, let the trimming
stick out 1 cm as underlap- this will cover
the zip later. Fold and pin the remaining
trimming, iron.
10.) Pin the trimming close to the zip teeth onto
the zip band and stitch neatly.
11.) Close zip. Pin slit close middle on middle.
12.) Pin the zip band onto the right trimming, do
not take in the pant piece. Stitch.
13.) Stitch right slit edge as depicted, taking in
the trimming.
Back Middle Seams
14.) Push pant legs into each other again, right
sides facing. Stitch back middle seam. Fold
apart and iron the seam allowances from the
top to the point where it starts curving.
Waistband
Place waistband pieces onto each other, right sides
facing. Stitch middle seam. Finish seam allowances.
15.) Pin waistband middle on middle onto the
upper pant edge (seam number 4).
Stitch. Iron the seam allowances into the
waistband, iron the allowances of the
Other long edge to the inside.
16.) Fold waistband at wrap line, right side inside.
Stitch narrow edges onto another, at the right
for the front middle, at the left for the
underlap. Trim seam allowances. Cut edges
diagonally.Turn waistband, pin to the base
seam on the inside. Stitch all waistband edges
neatly, stitching the inner half.
Integrate buttonhole into the right side of the
waistband. Sew button to the underlap.
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Pant Cuff
Fold cuff, right side inside. Stitch narrow edges onto each
other. Finish seam allowances.
17.) Take in lower pant edge, stitching with wide
stitches from star symbol to star in two rows
next to each other. Pull bobbin thread so it
matches cuff width. Tie thread. Distribute
width evenly.
18.) Pin cuff half with interfacing onto the lower
pant edge right sides facing (seam number
5). The cuff seam meets the side seam; the
horizontal line meets the inner leg seam.
Stitch cuff. Iron seam allowances into the
cuff. Finish the seam allowance of the other
long ends.
19.) Turn cuff to the inside at the wrap line, pin
to the base seam. Stitch cuff edge
Neatly, stitching the inner half as well.
Loops
20.) Fold strip lengthwise, right side inside.
Stitch long edges onto each other 2
Cm (3/4 inch) from the wrap line. Trim seam
allowances. Turn strip. Pin edges, iron and
stitch neatly. Cut strip into 5 pieces of equal
length. De-baste ends.
21.) Stitch loops between the pleats, above the
darts and the back middle seam according to
the drawing and stitch 0.7 cm (1/4 inch)
from the waistband seam base.
Turn loops up, fold in and stitch neatly onto
the upper waistband edge (21a).
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