Costa Blanca- Ontinyent (topo) Hiszpania, España.pdf
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Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
APPROACHES
All the crags are in an area next to the
major highways of the A-330, the A430
and the N-340, close to the town of
Ontinyent (Onteniente). The climbing is
best approached from there by going
towards the town of Bocairent and signed
Villena.
where you leave the river. In front of you
is the cliff above the railway.
cliff La Via, where there is an belay station
halfway up.
Heavy Pescador and Fragel Rock I and II:
After the end of the two-lane road, leave
the car on the right of the road. Go on foot
along the road to where you can identify
the sectors.
Sector 1: Pou Clar and Sector 2: La Monja
are visble from the parking for Pou Clar,
2km from Ontinyent.
WHERE TO STAY
It is prohibited to camp anywhere in the
sierra. There are hotels and hostels in
Ontinyent.
Sector 3: El Pont: Continue past the second
bridge. You can leave the car before or
after the bridge.
WATER
There is water at Pou Clar and at the
parking for El Camí. Also at the entrance
to the ravine Bocairent, at the cross of
Alfafara.
From there, for Sector 4: La Cequia, Sector
5: El Gegant and Sector 6: El Cagalló del
Gegant go down under the bridge for the
well marked path. When the path
disappears there is a small path through the
reeds to a small ditch at the base of the
wall.
ORIENTATION
The different orientation of the sectors
allow climbing throughout the year by
choosing the right time of the day. It is
possible to climb in the very hot summer
by choosing a crag in the shade, but
breeze is useful. If it’s too hot you have
the option to swim in the river.
For sectors 7,8 and 9 take the single track
off to the right from the main road. Follow
this to a electricity transformer building.
Park here. For sector 7 and 8 take the track
leading to the right up the gully. For
sectors 9, 9a and 9b follow the path next
the river bed.
North facing: La Monja, El Pont and Pou
Clar.
South facing: La Cequia and Patirás.
West facing: La Via and El Gegant.
Sector 7: El Cami: Take the track before
the second bridge and park the car at the
bars.
EQUIPMENT & HEIGHT
All the major areas are equipped with
expansion bolts with occasionally resin
bolts. All the routes can be climbed with a
60 meter rope as the belays are less than 30
meters except "les mil y una nit" on the
Sector 10: La Via: Continue along the
main road and leave the car on the left
Page 2 of 18
© Richard Davies 2003
Page 3 of 18
© Richard Davies 2003
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Barranc de l`Avern. Pou Clar.
Sector 2: La Monja
Barranc de l`Avern. Pou Clar.
Sector 1: Finestres
This section is described from left to right.
8. Xapa Xina . . . . . . . . .
6c/6c+
1. Escalullo . . . . . . . . .
V+
9. Marilo . . . . . . . . . . .
6c
2. El jete dels escolars . . .
6c+
10. Queimada . . . . . . . .
7b
3. Diedre flequillo . . . . . .
V+
11. Monja . . . . . . . . . .
A1
4. Placa flequillo. . . . . . .
V
12. Pilotaris . . . . . . . . .
6b
This wall is characterised by the square holes which are the openings to small rooms inside the rock.
13. Burila alco ana . . . . .
A1
5. Salva. . . . . . . . . . . .
V+
The routes are described from left to right.
6. Iternauta. . . . . . . . . .
7a
14. El daurat . . . . . . . .
A1/6c
1.- Per a calfar . . . . . . . ҏ7a?
4.- KK lorsai . . . . . . . .. ҏ7b
7. Dos germans . . . . . . .
6b+
2.- Putos hijos de Pou Clar . ҏ?
3.- Entre morsas . . . . . .
5.- El maromo de las raiban ҏ7a
ҏ7c
Page 4 of 18
© Richard Davies 2003
Page 5 of 18
© Richard Davies 2003
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Barranc de l`Avern. Pou Clar.
Sector 3: El Pont
Barranc de l`Avern.
Sector 4: La Cequia
The routes are described from left to right.
The routes are described from left to right.
1. Catarata de merda . . . . . . . . . ҏ6b
2. Hector verdu . . . . . . . . . . . .
1. Espero lunchinin . . . ҏ V
13. Garbancito . . . . . . ҏ V+
6a
2. Ricmos . . . . . . . . .
ҏ V
14. Avi-guai . . . . . . . . ҏ V
15. Mongolo . . . . . . . . ҏ V
3. Vicente Morales . . . . . . . . . .
6b+
3. Ekus . . . . . . . . . .
ҏ V
4. Quarre pa 2 vias . . . . . . . . . .
6a-
4. Trogolitro . . . . . . . . ҏ V
16. Magachi . . . . . . . .
ҏ 6a
5. Pepe soplillo y sus moquillos . . .
6a
5. Petxina . . . . . . . . . ҏ 6a
6. El senor de los anillos. . ҏ 6a
17. Loca la bosina . . . . ҏ V+
18. Carmaic . . . . . . . .
6. Disetu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6c
ҏ V
7. El corsari . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7a
7. Manduca . . . . . . . .
ҏ 6a+
19. Torta . . . . . . . . . .
ҏ V
8. Balido bolilla . . . . . . . . . . . .
6b+
8. Comic’s . . . . . . . .
ҏ 6b
20. Piruli . . . . . . . . . .
ҏ V
9. Sangul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6c+
9. Cuentos chicos . . . . ҏ 6a+
10. Joli . . . . . . .
21. Nyanyes . . . . . . . . ҏ V
22. Caballo molames . . . ҏ V
ҏ V+
11. Flipat perdut per un
23. Pistoles . . . . . . . .
ҏ V
canut . . . . . . . . . . .
ҏ 6a+
12. Avi-cola . . . . . . . .
ҏ 6a
Page 6 of 18
© Richard Davies 2003
Page 7 of 18
© Richard Davies 2003
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Barranc de l`Avern.
Sector 5: El Gegant
Barranc de l`Avern.
Sector 6: El Cagalló del Gegant
The routes are described from left to right.
1.- S´has golo . . . . . . . ҏ 7a+
2.- Barrufets . . . . . . . .
20.- M´han fotut . . . . . . ҏ7b+
21.- Bon tacte . . . . . . . ҏ7a+
22.- Si hay sirocco no te comas el
ҏ6c
3.- Pitufos . . . . . . . . .
ҏ6a
4.- Pelawaudios . . . . . .
ҏ6a
coco . . . . . . . ҏ6c+
23.- Ara no bailo . . . . . . ҏ6c
5.- Esperó boxerini . . . .
ҏ6a
The routes are described from left to right.
24.- Marti tirali . . . . . . . ҏ6b
25.- La penga dels botifarres ҏ6a+
7.- Dolores . . . . . . . . .
ҏ6a
1. Bamcalina . . . . . . . .
ҏ6a
11. Sanson s escora . . . .
ҏ7b+
8.- Tirali Calceti . . . . . .
ҏ6a+
26.- Pablito clavó un clavito ҏ6b
27.- De repent en parapent ҏ6c+
2. Satiro . . . . . . . . . . . ҏV
3. Milotxo . . . . . . . . . . ҏV+
12. Man kane . . . . . . . .
ҏ7a+
9.- Cap de caixo . . . . . .
ҏ6a
13. Hectur . . . . . . . . .
ҏ7a
10.- Dolores con piano . .
ҏ6a
28.- Secció homos . . . . . ҏ6c
4. Jordi . . . . . . . . . . . ҏ6a
5. En un moment . . . . . . ҏ6b
14. Moir d’amor . . . . . . ҏ7a+
15. Lot ras . . . . . . . . .
11.- Flamingo . . . . . . .
ҏ6a
ҏ7a
12.- Tortugo . . . . . . .
ҏ6a
29.- Desastre pe un sastre ҏ6b+
30.- Xe quin bolet . . . . . ҏ6a
6. Pinoxo . . . . . . . . . . ҏ6a
16. Sesion de noche . . . ҏ6c
13.- L´oratge . . . . . . .
ҏIV
14.- Obri llaunes . . . . .
ҏIV
31.- Que content que estic ҏ6c
32.- Relajació i recreo . . . ҏV+
7. J.M.Tempranillo . . . . . ҏ6b
8. Sangurrsa . . . . . . . .
17. Te do tot . . . . . . . ҏ6b+
18. Anillo de cuero . . . . ҏ6b-
ҏ6c+
15.- Sopa de ganso . . . .
ҏ6a+
16.- Va que es per avui . .
ҏ6a
33.- Opa ostil . . . . . . .
ҏ7a
9. Botamons . . . . . . . . ҏ6c
10. Sancalio . . . . . . . .
19. Puntmort . . . . . . .
ҏ7a
34.- Cap finet . . . . . . .
ҏ6b+
ҏ7a
17.- Rocabola . . . . . . . ҏ6a+
18.- Panxa verda . . . . . . ҏ7b
35.- Mano guarra . . . . . ҏ7a+
36.- La trampa . . . . . . . ҏ6a
19.- Mitja via . . . . . . .
ҏ7a
Page 8 of 18
© Richard Davies 2003
Page 9 of 18
© Richard Davies 2003
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
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