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PATTERN PIECES:
1 Front
1x
fit your size at the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here".
→
Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model by the
same amount at the same lines.
2 Back
1x
3 Casing Strip
2x
4 Tie Band
2x
5 Casing Strip
2x
How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:
Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.
To
lengthen
, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far
apart as necessary.
To
shorten
, overlap the two halves of the patten piece as far
as necessary.
Even out the side edges.
CUTTING LAYOUTS ARE ON THE PATTERN
SHEET
PREPARING PATTERN PIECES
Choose your size according to the Burda measurement chart
on the pattern sheet: dresses, blouses, jackets and coats
according to your bust measurement, pants and skirts
according to your hip measurement. Adjust the pattern
pieces, if necessary, by adding or subtracting the number of
inches that your measurements differ from the measurements
given in the Burda chart.
CUTTING OUT
FOLD (– – – –) means:
this is the center of a pattern piece
but in no case a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut
double, with the fold line forming the center line.
Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the
cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric.
Cut out all pieces in the required size from
the pattern sheet:
The cutting diagram on the pattern sheet show how the
pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.
LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING PATTERN PIECES
Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5 feet, 6 inches (168
cm). If your are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to
SEAM AND HEM ALLOWANCES are included on the
pattern pieces: 1 5⁄8" (4 cm)
for hem,
5⁄8" (1.5 cm)
at all other
seams and edges.
Cutting from a double layer of fabric:
Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in and
matching the selvages. Pin the pattern pieces to the wrong
side.
side of the fabric as shown in the cutting diagram. Cut out the
SEWING
When sewing, right sides of fabric should be
facing.
DRESS
Neckline / Bias Tape
Fold bias tape in half lengthwise, press.
→
Trim the allowance at front and back edge of
neckline to 1⁄4" (0.7 cm).
1.)
Baste bias tape right sides together with front and
back edge of neckline so that the open edges lie on
the seam allowance. Stitch bias tape 1⁄4" (0.7 cm)
wide. Trim allowances, clip curves. Turn bias tape to
inside, baste and press. Topstitch 3⁄16” (0.5 cm) next
to edge of neckline, catching bias tape.
Shoulder Seams
2.)
Lay front right sides together with back. Baste
shoulder seams (seam number 1) and stitch. Trim
seam allowances, neaten together and press onto
back. Sew seam allowances to bias tape (2a).
Armholes / Bias Tape
Neaten edges of armholes as instructed for neckline
(see steps 1 and 2).
Side Seams / B Slits
3.)
Lay front right sides together with back. Baste
side seams (seam number 2). Stitch side seams from
upper to lower edges. Secure ends of stitching.
Neaten seam allowances and press open.
Drawstring Casing
4.)
Lay casing strips (
A
piece 3) right sides together
and stitch center back seam. Press seam allowances
open.
5.)
Press lengthwise edge of casing to center.
6.)
Baste casing strip on right fabric side of front and
back pieces over marked lines. Turn in ends of casing
strip in front. Stitch casing close to edges. Secure ends
of stitching.
TIP: It will be easier to pin on the casing strip if you
slip the dress/tunic over your ironing board.
Tie Bands
7.)
Press allowance at long edges to center. Press one
end of each tie band to wrong side. Press strips in half,
wrong side facing in. Stitch together close to edges.
8.)
Stitch open ends of tie bands onto ends of elastic.
9.)
Use a safety pin as a bodkin to insert tie bands with
elastic through casing.
Hem
10.)
Neaten hem, turn in, baste and press. Topstitch
lower edge 11⁄2" (3.5 cm) wide, catching hem.
11.)
Turn slit allowances to inside again, baste in place.
Topstitch slit edges 1⁄2" (1.2 cm) wide, catching
allowances.
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