Bench - classic cedar garden.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - juan1p

Garden Grace

How to build a classic cedar garden bench.

If the only thing you do in your yard is mow the lawn,

maybe it's time to add some creature comfort to your

outdoor space. Our stately cedar bench is ideal for relaxing

in the fresh air, enjoying the greenery and just getting away

from it all. And, it's more than just a great place to sit.

Featuring a design influenced by the Arts & Crafts style, the

piece will bring an upscale look to any yard. Best of all, the

construction details are solid and simple, giving you a long-

lasting piece of outdoor furniture that's relatively easy to

build.

We used red cedar for the bench--a material that's

generally available at lumberyards and home centers

throughout the country. Since cedar is widely used for

outdoor decking and trim, it's usually not kiln-dried and is

often sold with a high moisture content. For the best results

with this project, buy the material at least two to three

weeks before beginning construction. Stack the lumber in a

dry location with spacers between the boards, allowing for

good air circulation so the material will dry. And, be sure to

use a glue designated for exterior use. We used Titebond II

assemble our bench.

MATERIALS LIST--GARDEN BENCH

Key No. Size and description (use)

A 2 2-3/4 x 5 x 35-1/2" cedar (rear

leg)

B 2 2-3/4 x 2-3/4 x 23-1/2" cedar

(front leg)

C 2 1 x 3 x 51" cedar (back rail)

D 2 1 x 4 x 51" cedar (seat rail)

E 1 1 x 2-1/2 x 51" cedar (front rail)

F 2 1 x 2-1/2 x 17-3/8" cedar (side

rail)

G 2 1 x 3-1/4 x 17-3/8" cedar (side

rail)

H 1 1-1/2 x 3-3/8 x 17-3/8" cedar

(center rail)

I 22 3/8 x 1-1/2 x 6-1/4" cedar

(bottom slat)

J 14 3/8 x 1-1/2 x 8-3/4" cedar (back

slat)

K 6 3/4 x 2-1/4 x 54-1/2" cedar

(seat slat)

L 2 1 x 4-1/4 x 20-5/8" cedar (arm)

M 36 1-1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew

N 36 3/8"-dia. cedar plug

Misc.: Exterior glue; 120-grit sandpaper;

Cabot No. 1400 Decking Stain, Clear

(Samuel Cabot Inc., 100 Hale St.,

Newburyport, MA 01950;

www.cabotstains.com).

t o

Preparing The Legs

The 2-3/4-in.-thick legs are made by gluing

together thinner stock. To make each rear leg,

crosscut a pair of 2 x 6 cedar pieces to about 40

in. Use a roller to spread glue on the mating

surfaces of the boards (Photo 1) and clamp the

pairs together to form the leg blanks. For the front

legs, follow the same procedure with 30-in.-long 2

x 4 stock.

When the glue dries, rip the rear blanks to a width

of 5 in. and use a band saw to trim them to 2-3/4

in. thick. Then saw the front legs to 2-3/4 in.

square. Plane the cut surfaces smooth and

crosscut the front legs to finished length.

Apply glue to pairs of 2 x 6s, and then

clamp them together to form the rear leg

blanks. Use 2 x 4s for the front legs.

Lay out the side profile of the rear legs on the

cedar blanks (Photo 2) and cut to the waste side

of the lines with a band saw (Photo 3). Then

plane the sawn surfaces (Photo 4). Use a sanding

block or scraper to smooth the inside corner of

each leg where the plane won't reach.

Use a plunge router with a spiral up-cutting bit

and an edge guide to remove most of the waste in

each leg mortise (Photo 5). Square the mortise

ends with a sharp chisel (Photo 6).

Band saw the rear leg blanks to 5 in. wide

and 2-3/4 in. thick. Plane them smooth

and lay out the side profile.

Notice that the arm mortises in the rear legs are

cut at a 7-1/2° angle to allow the arms to be level.

To start the angled mortises, clamp a block with a

square end to the vertical face of a leg and use it

as a guide to drill out most of the waste (Photo 7).

Then, use a sharp chisel to finish each mortise.

Crosscut the top end of each rear leg so that it's

square to the angled face of the leg. Chamfer the

ends with a block plane (Photo 8).

Use a band saw to cut the rear legs from

the blanks. Be sure to keep the saw kerf

on the waste side of the layout line.

Use a sharp plane to smooth the sawn

surfaces. Switch to sandpaper or a

scraper at the back inside corner.

Mark the mortise locations on the front

and rear legs, and use a plunge router

and edge guide to make the cuts.

After the routing has been completed, use

a sharp chisel to square the rounded ends

of each leg mortise.

To cut the angled arm mortises, clamp a

board to the leg to act as a guide. Bore

holes, then finish with a chisel.

Crosscut the leg top so that it's square to

the angled face of the leg. Use a chisel or

block plane to chamfer the end.

Bench Rails

Rip and crosscut 1-in.-thick stock for the rails.

Also, cut a piece of 2 x 4 stock to size for the

center seat-support rail. Use a scrap stick as a

beam compass to mark the 39-3/4-in. radius on

the top side rails and center rail, but don't cut the

curves at this point. Install a dado blade in the

table saw and cut the tenons on the ends of the

side, front and back rails (Photo 9). Use the table

saw rip fence as a stop to ensure that the tenons

are of equal length. Readjust the blade height to

cut the shoulder at the top and bottom edge of

each tenon.

Use a dado blade in the table saw to cut

the rail tenons. The rip fence acts as a

stop to ensure tenons of equal length.

Clamp a scrap fence to the table saw fence and

position it so that only 1/2 in. of the dado blade

will be exposed. Turn on the saw and raise the

blade to a height of 7/8 in., and cut the tenons on

the top ends of the front legs (Photo 10). Readjust

the saw again to cut the tenons on the ends of the

center seat-support rail.

Bench - classic cedar garden.pdf

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