Woodsmith #142-polyurethane-glue.pdf

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T OOLS &
T ECHNIQUES
P OLYURETHANE G LUE
When it comes to building any out-
door project, you want to use an adhe-
sive that stands up to the weather.
Here in Iowa, that can mean lots of
rain in the spring, humid heat in the
summer, and dr y, frozen winters.
I’ve tried a number of different
glues on outdoor projects in the past
(plastic resin, resorcinal, and epoxy).
But this time, I decided to use one
that’s relatively new: polyurethane
glue. (This glue is readily available at
woodworking stores and catalogs and
many home centers.)
When you hear “polyurethane,” you
probably think of the popular finish-
es first. But polyurethane glue has lit-
tle in common with these finishes. In
fact, it doesn’t even have much in com-
mon with other outdoor glues.
For one thing, the outdoor glues
I’m used to working with are all two-
part concoctions. But there’s no mix-
ing necessar y with this glue, it’s ready
to go right out of the bottle.
APPLICATION . But more importantly,
polyurethane glues cure differently
than other glues. Instead of curing
by evaporation or by a reaction that
takes place when two chemicals are
mixed together, these glues simply
react with the moisture in the wood
(which should be at least 8%). To be
on the safe side, I usually add a little
water to one of the workpieces, mist-
ing it on with a spray bottle.
I apply the glue to the mating work-
piece. Here again, polyurethane glue
requires a different approach. With
other glues, you don’t want to “star ve”
the joint (not apply enough glue). But
polyurethane expands as it cures, and
the tendency is to apply too much. In
fact, figuring out how little glue to
apply takes some getting used to. I
found it easiest to spread the glue thin
with a plastic spreader, see photo.
This way, I was sure the wood was
covered without too much excess.
WORKING TIME . With most other
glues, things start to get a little fran-
tic as I tr y to get the clamps in place
before the glue sets up. That’s anoth-
er reason I like using this glue.
There’s no rush. You have 20-30 min-
utes to get the clamps in place and to
make sure the assembly is square.
Of course, the down side to this is
you have to leave the clamps on a
while longer. I typically like to keep
them on anywhere from 4-6 hours.
As I mentioned earlier, these glues
expand as they react to moisture. But
“foam” may describe it better, see
inset photo. When I saw this bubbly
mess oozing from the joint line, my
first reaction was to wipe it off right
away — before it hardened. But actu-
ally, polyurethane glue is much easi-
er to remove after it has dried. Unlike
other glues, this glue will scrape or
sand off easily. (I like to use a cabinet
scraper.) That’s because the glue
doesn’t cure rock hard. You can even
dent it with a fingernail.
DRAWBACKS . Polyurethane glue def-
initely deser ves a place on the wood-
worker’s shelf. But don’t leave it there
too long. After the bottle has been
opened, the glue has a shelf life of
about 6 months to a year.
That’s not too unusual. Other glues
have a limited shelf life too. But
polyurethane glue is a bit more expen-
sive than other glues. So when buy-
{ One unique characteristic of
polyurethane glue is that it
foams as it reacts with the
moisture in the wood.
ing some for a project, I tr y to get just
what I think I’ll be able to use.
There’s one more drawback to
note. Because this glue reacts with
moisture, it will react with the mois-
ture in your skin, so it’s a good idea
to wear gloves when applying the
glue, see photo. And even though
polyurethanes have little or no sol-
vents in them, you should have ade-
quate ventilation, too. (Also, if you
have respirator y problems, be aware
that these glues contain isocyanates.)
So what’s the bottom line? For most
projects, I’ll probably still rely on
trusty old yellow glue. Polyurethane
glue is a little too pricey to replace it.
But I’ll definitely be using poly-
urethane glue again — on my next
outdoor project or when I need a lit-
tle extra assembly time. W
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Woodsmith
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