Little+Charmer.pdf

Little Charmer

perfect ted to snuggle up to

made with pile going forwards

along the gusset in order to

give him a fringe-effect - you

may choose to mark yours out

in the opposite direction

which would achieve a more

traditional appearance. Draw

round all the pattern pieces

on the reverse side of the

mohair using a pencil or

marker pen, remembering to

mark the points for the joints.

Do the same for the foot pads

and the paws.

2 Cut out the pads and

centre mark on the gusset to

the seam on the side head

pieces and sew in place. With

right sides together, pin and

stitch around the ear, leaving

open where indicated. Pin and

sew the paw pads to the

inner arm pieces, then attach

the inner arms to the outer

arm, leaving a gap as

indicated for jointing and

filling.

4 With right sides

together, pin and sew

the leg pieces together,

leaving a gap for filling, and

the feet open in order to

attach the foot pads. To

attach the foot pads, line up

the centre front and back

markings on the pads with

the front and back leg seams

and pin in place. Pin all the

way round the foot pad. Place

the leg pad downwards (as

the bear is standing up) on

the sewing machine plate,

and sew in place.

5 Pin and sew the darts A

paws. Then cut out the

pattern pieces using

sharp, pointed scissors. Cut the

backing only, not the pile.

Once the pieces are cut out,

trim away approximately 1 / 4 "

of mohair around each one.

This may seem a bit laborious,

but it does ensure that the

minimum amount of mohair

gets trapped in the seams,

allowing the seam to lay flat

and neat once sewn. You

should have the following

pieces 1 head gusset, 2 side

head pieces (1 reversed), 4

ears, 2 bodies (1 reversed), 4

legs (2 reversed), 2 arms (1

reversed),2 inner arms (1

reversed), 2 foot pads, 2 paws

(1 reversed).

3 With right

Sam is so

cute and

cuddly that

he's sure to

win the heart

of every arctophile. Standing

30cm (12") tall, he is made

from wonderfully wavy

mohair and has a distinctive

pronounced face. Follow

these step by step instruc-

tions and Sam could soon be

shaking paws with the other

members of your hug!

have used bonded nylon thread)

• Nose thread - colour and

thickness of your choice

• Polyester filler

• Pellets for the tummy

• Paw pad material (I have

used German wool felt, but you

may choose to use ultrasuede or

suedette instead)

• A 3mm ( 1 / 4 ") seam allowance

is included on all the pattern

pieces

to B at the top and

bottom of each body

piece. With right sides

together - pin and sew the

body pieces together, leaving

a gap as shown for stuffing.

Leave the neck open.

6 Comb out all

sides

together,

stitch the side

head pieces

from the tip of

the nose to the

neck. Pin the

head gusset in

place

matching

the

the seams from

the wrong side

first of all - this

ensures that no

unnecessary tufts of hair

poke through to the

right side. Turn all

the pieces the

right way out

and repeat

the process.

Step by Step

1 Read through all the

You Will Need

• A sewing machine

• 1 / 4 metre of mohair

• A pair of 38mm cotter pin

joints for the head

• Two pairs of 38mm cotter pin

joints for the legs

• Two pairs of 25mm cotter pin

joints for the arms

• One pair of 5mm glass eyes

• Sewing thread to match the

backing of the mohair

• Strong thread for finishing the

seams and putting in the eyes (I

instructions carefully

before you begin. Trace

all the pattern pieces and

transfer to thin card, remem-

bering to mark the points

indicated for the joints, and

seam openings. Identify the

direction of the pile of the

mohair you have chosen, and

place the pattern pieces on

the material following the

direction of the arrows. I have

not indicated the pile direction

on the head gusset. Sam was

March 2001

11 Sew a running stitch

12 Stuff the paws, feet

7 Using polyester filler

10 Tidy up Sam's

and a stuffing tool,

stuff the head firmly -

fill the nose area first with

small bits of filler. Assemble

one half of the cotter pin

joint and place in the neck

using doubled strong

thread. Pull up tightly to

encompass the joint. Make

several tight back stitches

around the gathered area

and tie off.

8 Using two glass-headed

muzzle by

trimming away the

fur around the nose and

mouth. Many different looks

can be achieved by trimming

either more of less hair

away. Using the nose thread,

mark out the position of the

nose with a few horizontal

stitches to give yourself a

guide. Fill in the nose area

stitching from the top to

the bottom, finishing with

the mouth - you may choose

to give your bear a big smile

or a more serious look.

around the neck

edge of the body,

pull up tightly and fasten off.

Make a hole in the middle of

the gathered area with the

awl and pass the cotter pin

from the head through the

hole in the neck. Secure the

joints from the inside of the

body with long nose pliers.

Make small holes on the

points you marked on the

inside of the body and attach

each arm and leg securing

from the inside of your body

with your pliers.

and top of the

limbs (the joint

area) quite firmly. Fill out the

rest of the limb using strong

thread, ladder stitch the

openings together and fasten

off securely. Using polyester

filler, stuff the bear's bottom

and neck area firmly and fill

his tummy with pellets. Now

that Sam is complete, you

may wish to add a matching

ribbon around his neck or to

dress him in a suitable outfit.

pins, experiment with

different positions for

the eyes. Once you have

decided where you want

them, make two holes with

an awl and attach them.

9 Again experiment until

Bear Facts

For more information on

April Bears call 01525 210 200.

you get the right look

for your bear, pinning

the ears in at a variety of

angles. Once you are happy

with them, attach them to

the head using ladder stitch.

Work along the inside of the

ears and then down the

outside - once in place,

release any trapped fur with

the needle or a comb.

March 2001

Your Templates

At actual size

Side Head

Cut 2

(1 reversed)

Foot Pad

Cut 2

Ear

Cut 4

Joint Position

•

Head Gusset

Cut 1

Body

Cut 2

(1 reversed)

Joint Position

•

March 2001

Joint Position

•

Inner Paw Pad

Cut 2

(1 Reversed)

Inner Arm

Cut 2

(1 Reversed)

Outer Arm

Cut 2

(1 Reversed)

•

Joint Position

Leg

Cut 4

(2 Reversed)

March 2001

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