33optionalbase.pdf

O NLINE E XTRAS

Optional Base

The bracket feet that I put

on the blanket chest are

really distinctive, but this

simpler, “ogee” base

makes a great alternative.

It’s just a mitred frame

that’s set in 8mm from

the edges of the bullnose

base frame. (The ogee base should

line up with the base moulding above.)

After the pieces are mitred, I cut

kerfs and splines that will reinforce

the joint. Then the profile shown in

Fig. 1a can be cut and smoothed. This

isn’t hard, but work carefully so you

end up with clean, smooth lines.

Before attaching the frame, you’ll

need to add some mounting cleats to

the front and sides of the base frame.

And two triangular brace blocks rein-

force the base frame at the back. W

8g x 38mm

c/s screw

8g x 32mm

c/s s crew

Brace

block

mounting

cleats

1124

NOTE: Base is

flush with back

and centred

side to side

473

3mm

spline

160

25mm-rad.

NOTE:

Profiles are

identical

on sides

and front

100

45mm-rad.

120

Mortising Chest Hinges

There’s no big secret to mortising

butt hinges. I’ve found that all it takes

is a little know-how and a dose of

patience. And like any job, I like to

use any shortcuts that are available.

LAYOUT . For the blanket chest in

issue No. 33, I started with the case.

The first step here is to lay out the

mortise. Once you’ve marked the

position of the hinge, just set it in place

and score around it with a sharp util-

ity knife, as in Fig. 1. The sharp cuts

are easy to see and will give you a

head start when it’s time to clean out

the mortise. (Remember that the bar-

rel of the hinge should sit proud of

the case, as shown in Fig. 2a.)

ROUTER SHORTCUT . You could start

chopping out the mortise with a sharp

chisel, but I like to use a small hand-

held router with a straight bit to rough

out the mortise. (I used a 10mm-dia.

bit.) This method gives you a smooth

bottom and a consistent depth and

just makes the job just a bit easier.

But there are a couple of simple

tricks to this method. First you need

to set the router bit to cut to the right

depth. Fig. 2a. shows what you’re after

here — the same depth mortise in

the lid and the case. I just measured

the thickness of the hinge barrel and

then split the difference, subtracting

a little (0.75mm) so I’d end up with

clearance between the lid and the case.

Next, to safely use a router on the

narrow edge of the case, you’ll need

a little help. As you can see in Fig. 2,

I used a 100 x 50 block clamped flush

with the top edge of the case to give

the router base more surface to ride

on. (A rebate in the block just pro-

vides clearance to start the cut.)

Once you’re set up, just take it slow.

First test the depth of the cut, and

when you’re satisfied, sneak up close

to the scored lines with the bit.

CLEAN-UP. After you’ve roughed out

the mortise, a sharp chisel will com-

plete the job. Just deepen the scored

lines you made earlier with the utili-

ty knife and then carefully pare away

the waste, as shown in Fig. 3.

LID MORTISES . Now the case mortis-

es can be used to locate the mortis-

es in the lid. But this time, you won’t

need the support block. And finally,

tr y to make sure the pilot holes for the

screws are centred so they don’t move

the hinges in the mortises. W

R e bate in

suppo r t

block

provide s

clearance for

router bit

SIDE

SECTION

FIRST: Deepen

score lines

Score

around

the hinge

with a

sharp

knife

Mortise roughed

out with router

Hinge

mortised

same depth

into case

and lid

100 x 5 0 clam p ed

to case helps

sup p ort router

base

SECOND: Pare

away waste

Australian Woodsmith No. 33 Online Extras

25 x 18

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