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The Medieval Tailor's Assistant
SARAH THURSFIELD
making common garments 1200 - 1500
Tailor,
1320-1330,
English
He is fashionably dressed in a loose surcole with peaked sleeves and fitchets
(side slitsi which give access to the belt and purse beneath. His titled cole
sleeves emerge al the wrists. He wears well-litted hose and plain shoes; a loose
hood with a long point is thrown back round his shoulders. He appears to be
cutting out and shaping a cote, using a large pair of shears (prctoably
exaggerated), and appropriating a remnant at the same time.
Hours ol Ihe Blessed ^rgm Mary. British Library MS Harley 6563.1. 65
The Medieval Tailor's Assistant
making common garments 1200 - 1500
SARAH THURSFIELD
RUTH BEAN
Carlton, Bedford
First published 2001 in the United Kingdom by
Ruth Bean Pubhshers
Victoria Farmhouse, Carkon, Bedford MK43 7LP
First pubhshed 2001 in the USA by
Costume & Fashion Press
an imprint of
Quite Specific Media Group Ltd
7373 Pyramid Place, Hollywood, CA 90046
© Sarah Thursfield and Ruth Bean 2001
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any
means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise,
without the prior permission of the publisher
r
ISBN 0 903585 32 4
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Design
Alan Bultitude
Photo styling
Caryl Mossop
Photography
Mark Scudder
&c
Les Goodey
Digital artwork
Personabilia Design & Print, Higham Ferrers, Northants
Printed in Hong Kong
Cover
Modern version of the chaperon, mid 15th century
The classic chaperon, seen here in black broadcloth, is made up of three parts - the
liripipe and shoulder cape (gorget), which are sewn to a padded roll. The roll
sometimes appears quite solid and may have been felted. The chaperon is often seen
slung over the shoulder where it would stay in place with a long enough liripipe.
Contents
List of plates
7
Lacing and eyelets 54
Garters 55
Buttons & buttonholes 55/58
Hooks and eyes 55
Decorations 59
Embroidery 59
Dagging 60
Small-wares & other techniques 61
Cords and laces 61
Tablet weaving 61
Netting 61
Knitting 61
Tassels 62
Mending 62
Materials
63
Wool 63
Choosing your material; Colours
63
Linen, canvas and cotton 64
Choosing your material; Colours
64
Silk 64
Choosing your silk
65
Buying fabrics 65
Materials to avoid; A note about selvedges
65
Fur
Acknowledgements
8
Introduction
9
How to use the book
10
Part
1
The techniques
Preparation
13
Sources of information 13
Collecting information ' 13
Establishing the date for your outfit 13
Defining the wearer 15
Selecting your garments: visual inventory 15
Wearing your outfit 22
Care and storage 22
The personal pattern Block
23
Planning directly from personal measurements
23
Measurements 23
Modelling a bodice toile 23
Modelling a toile for a man 25
Modelling a toile for a woman 27
From toile to Block 29
Transferring the toile to paper; The intermediate
pattern; From intermediate pattern to Block
29
The sleeve Block 34
Trying out the sleeve with the bodice Block 37
Cutting the sleeve
65
Choosing your fur
65
38
Threads
66
Choosing threads
66
Blocks for children
38
Tools for demonstrating sewing
66
From Block to working pattern
39
Enlarging the Block for outer garments
40
Part
2
The garments
Entries in
bold type
indicate patterns
Adapting the Block to add length,
width or fullness 40
Adapting the Block for long skirts 42
Making the working pattern for a garment 42
Methods
44
BODY LINENS
Braies, shirts and smocks
67
Making and laundering
67
Hand or machine stitching?
44
Materials
67
Sewing stitches
44
Cutting out
68
Making up
46
Sewing methods
68
Setting in simple sleeves
47
Braies
69
Finishing raw edges
48
The breech girdle
69
Slits for fitchets, slashes for
sleeves
49
Long-legged braies
- 69
Interlining (interfacing)
50
Short braies
70
Interlining flat pieces
50
Shirts and smocks
71
Lining
"
51
Lining close-fitting sleeves
51
Planning and cutting
71
Facings
51
Shirt
71
Collars and cuffs
52
Making up
72
Stomachers
53
Smock
72
Working with fur
53
Tapered sleeve
73
Fastenings
53
Neck finishes and collar
73
5
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