Chair - Armchair.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - borys.karawaning

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ARMCHAIR

839

It's becoming more and more ex-

pensive these days to own good

handcrafted furniture. This project

enables you to make your own

armchair at a fraction of the retail

cost. What's more, you'll be sure of

the craftsmanship and quality, be-

cause you made it yourself.

1. Cut the pieces to size according

to the dimensions given. When

ripping the back cleat (L) to width,

cut a 16° bevel on the ripped edge.

Also, cut tapers on the ends of the

back supports (K) as shown.

2. Drill 1-3/8"-deep x i"-wide x

2-1/4"-long mortises in the arms

(A) and legs (B) as shown. Remove

any excess stock with a hand chisel.

3. Use a router or hand chisel to

make the 1/2"-deep x 3/8"-wide x

2-1/2"-long mortises in the edges

of the back rails (G, H). Leave the

corners round.

4. Mark the locations for cutting

tenons in the ends of the side rails

(C), front rail (E), and back rails. To

mark, score the wood with a knife

to prevent splintering.

5. Use a dado blade to cut the 1"-

thick x 2-1/4"-wide x 1-1/4"-long

tenons.

6. Drill dowel holes in the arms,

side rails, side panels (D), and back

stiles (F), and rails. Drill these holes

1" deep.

7. Round the side edges of the

slats (J) with a router and rounding

over bit. This will enable them to fit

the mortises in the back rails.

8. Sand all pieces smooth with 150-

grit paper. Dry-assemble the arm

chair to check for fit.

9. Assemble the side frames. Begin

by fitting the side rails between the

legs, then install the side panels

and the arms. Use glue in all joints

and clamp until dry.

frames, then remove the front rail

while you install the side cleats.

Glue the front rail in place after

that.

12. Fit the back cleat in place

against the tail ends of the side

cleats, making their upper edges

flush. Fasten the back cleat to the

side cleats using #10 x 2-1/4" flat-

head wood screws set in pilot holes

counterbored to a depth of at least

1/2".

13. Hold the back frame in posi

tion between the sides with its

lower rail pressed firmly against

the back cleat. Mark the side

frames along the rear edge of the

back. Remove the back frame and

install the back supports using glue

and #8x1-1/4" flathead wood

screws, countersunk or slightly

counterbored. Then fasten the

back frame in place by running

screws through its bottom rail into

the back cleat and through the

supports into its stiles.

14. Doallfinalsanding,thenfinish

the chair frame as desired.

15. When the finish has dried,

mount band irons to the cleats

with

10. Fit the slats between the top

and bottom back rails. Fasten the

rails to the stiles using glue and

dowels. Clamp and set aside for the

glue to dry.

11. Assemble the front rail and the

side frames using glue in the mor

tise and tenon joints. Clamp the

assembly, then immediately install

the front (M) and side (N) cleats.

Butt the side cleats against the back

of the front rail and set them 1/16"

to 1/8" below the upper edges of

the side rails. Drill pilot holes coun-

terbored at least 1/4" deep, then

fasten the cleats to the frames us

ing glue and #10 x 2-1/4" flathead

wood screws. If you prefer, dry as

semble the frames and rail while

drilling pilot holes in the cleats and

840

#6 x 3/4" panhead screws. Do not

screw the irons tight against the

cleats; leave a 1/16" gap to pull the

rubber webbing through. 16.

Mark the proper spacing of the

rubber webbing strips. Starting on

one side, pull one strip through,

double the end over, and tack fast.

Repeat for each strip.

17. Stretch the strips across to the

other side, and feed the end be

tween the iron and cleat. Pull tight,

then double the ends over and

tack. Repeat this procedure for

stretching the strips from front to

back. Remember to interweave the

webbing as shown.

18. Buy or make cushions to fit

the

armchair.

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