kids-loft-bed.pdf

Loft Bed Cutting List

Loft Bed Plans

From four 2Ó by 8Ó

by 10Õ boards

Front legs (two 58Ó

boards)

Back legs (two 57 1 / 4 Ó

boards)

Outer frame sides

(two 78Ó boards)

Outer frame ends

(two 41Ó boards)

From two 2Ó by 3Ó

by 8Õ boards

Ladder sides (cut to

fit)

By Charlotte Meryman

Design by Kent Hicks

Play It Safe

Federal guidelines recommend

upper bunks only for children

age six or older. A night-light

is suggested in case they need

to get up in the dark. And of

course, kids should be taught

never to climb up or down

from the bed by any means

other than the ladder.

From two 1Ó by 8Ó

by 8Õ boards

Fixed shelf (cut one 38Ó

board)

Adjustable shelves

(cut three 37 1 / 2 Ó boards)

From one 2Ó by 8Ó

by 8Õ board

End support (one 41Ó

board)

From handrail (9 feet)

Ladder rungs (cut six

16Ó pieces)

From one 2Ó by 6Ó

by 12Õ board

Front inner frame

side (one 75Ó board)

Back inner frame side

(one 60 1 / 2 Ó board)

From three 5 / 4 Ó by 6Ó

by 8Õ boards

Rails (cut and sand

four 41Ó pieces in each of

the following widths: 3 1 / 2 Ó,

2 1 / 2 Ó, and 1 1 / 2 Ó)

From two 2Ó by 6Ó

by 8Õ boards

Inner frame ends and

crosspiece (three 36 1 / 2 Ó

boards)

Railing spacers (two

18 1 / 4 Ó and one 13Ó board;

you will cut the fourth

spacer to fit after the

others are in place)

From six 2Ó by 2Ó

by 4Õ balusters

Fixed railing posts

(21 1 / 2 Ó; cut and sand nine;

see step 12)

Removable railing

posts (20Ó; cut and sand

three; see step 12)

A Note on

Lumber Terms

Throughout this article

we refer to boards by

their conventional lum-

beryard names — 2” by

4”, 2” by 8”, and so on.

These are not the actu-

al sizes of these boards.

From 1 sheet 3 / 4 Ó plywood

Bed board (39 1 / 2 Ó by

Not Shown:

From one 2Ó by 4Ó

by 8Õ board

Rear support (cut one

76 1 / 2 Ó board)

75Ó)

F G H

From 1 / 2 sheet 1 / 2 Ó plywood

Puppet theater front/

chalkboard (30Ó by 41Ó)

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f a m i l y f un

Materials List

1 1 / 2 Ó

Back

of bed

Tools

Circular saw, power drill

with 1 / 8 Ó, 5 / 16 Ó, 3 / 8 Ó, and 1Ó

bits, power screwdriver,

socket wrench set, tape

measure, carpenterÕs

square, goggles, hammer

2 2Ó by 6Ó by 8Õ boards......$8

1 2Ó by 4Ó by 8Õ board........$2

2 2Ó by 3Ó by 8Õ boards......$4

2 1Ó by 8Ó by 8Õ

pine boards......................$15

9 feet of interior

handrail..........................$10

2 5 / 4 Ó by 6Ó by 8Õ lengths of

cedar decking ripped to

roughly 3 1 / 2 Ó and 1 1 / 2 Ó..$18

1 5 / 4 Ó by 6Ó by 8Õ cedar

decking ripped in half ..$9

6 2Ó by 2Ó by 4Õ clear cedar

balusters ......................$14

1 sheet 3 / 4 Ó birch plywood,

good two sides, cut to

39 1 / 2 Ó by 75Ó ..................$66

1 half sheet 1 / 2 Ó birch ply-

wood, good one side,

cut to 30Ó by 41Ó ..........$30

Subtotal ........................$221

3 / 4-inch lip

35Ó

3 / 4-inch lip

Hardware

1 pound of 2Ó decking

screws ..............................$7

1 pound of 2 1 / 2 Ó decking

screws ..............................$7

80 steel #8 finishing

washers ......................$3

16 3 1 / 2 -inch-long 3 / 8 Ó

carriage bolts ................$5

7 5-inch-long 3 / 8 Ó

carriage bolts................$3

2 8-inch-long 3 / 8 Ó

carriage bolts................$1

2 5-inch-long 3 / 8 Ó

hex bolts........................ $1

4 3-inch-long 3 / 8 Ó

lag screws ........................$1

8 4-inch-long 3 / 8 Ó

lag screws ..........................$4

12 5 1 / 2 -inch-long 3 / 8 Ó lag

screws ..............................$7

53 5 / 16 Ó washers ..................$3

27 3 / 8 Ó hex nuts....................$2

4 2Õ adjustable shelf

standards........................$5

12 shelf supports ................$4

42 1 / 2 Ó corner braces ........$2

1 sheet medium-grit

sandpaper........................$1

Subtotal ..........................$56

Front

of bed

3Ó

1. BUILDING THE REAR LEG SECTION

Boards needed:

Back inner frame side (2Ó by 6Ó by 60 1 / 2 Ó)

Back legs (2Ó by 8Ó by 57 1 / 4 Ó)

Rear support (2Ó by 4Ó by 76 1 / 2 Ó)

Optional

1 4Õ by 6Õ cork

bulletin board ..............$32

1 6Õ tension shower

curtain rod ....................$8

1 38Ó tension curtain rod $4

17 5 / 8 Ó furniture tips..........$4

10 1Ó wooden plugs (to cover

ladder countersinks) ....$3

1 pint chalkboard paint ..$10

1 pint knot sealer ..............$6

1 quart white

primer paint ....................$7

1 quart white semigloss

interior trim paint ........$8

1 pint clear high-gloss

polyurethane finish ......$8

Subtotal ........................ $90

2. ASSEMBLING THE FRAME ENDS

Boards needed:

Inner frame ends (2Ó by 6Ó by 36 1 / 2 Ó)

Outer frame ends (2Ó by 8Ó by 41Ó)

Place the back inner frame side (G) horizontally on the

floor in front of you, then position the two back legs (B) on

each side, flush with the top of G. Attach G to the two B’s

by “toeing in” 2

inch-

es in from one end of D, 3 inches in from the other end, and

-inch decking screws (inserting them at a

diagonal) from the top of G. Don’t worry if it seems wob-

bly at this point — boards added later will provide support.

Position the rear support (J) across the two legs, 35 inch-

es down from G, as shown in the diagram. It should be flush

with the outer edge of the right leg and extend 1

inch in from what will be the top edge of D, as shown

above. ( Tip: To set this last distance, use a scrap of

inch

plywood as a guide, as shown in the photo.) Secure with six

¾-

-inch deck-

ing screws, as

illustrated.

The other

frame end

should be a

mirror image

of the first.

inches

-inch deck-

ing screws (it will later be bolted on). Square the frame by

measuring diagonally from corner to corner, adjusting until

the measurements are equal. Hold in place with a second

Lumber

4 2Ó by 8Ó by 10Õ boards..$33

1 2Ó by 8Ó by 8Õ board........$6

1 2Ó by 6Ó by 12Õ board......$6

Total ..............................$367

-inch decking screw on each end.

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f a m i l y f un

Construct the first of the two frame ends by laying an inner

piece (H) on top of an outer piece (D) so that H sits 1

past the outer edge of the left leg.

Temporarily secure it on each end with 2

Cut to fit

18 1 / 4 Ó

13Ó

38 1 / 2 Ó

3. COMPLETING THE FRAME

Boards needed:

Assembled rear leg section

Assembled frame ends (H and D)

Frame crosspiece (2Ó by 6Ó by 36 1 / 2 Ó)

Front inner frame side (2Ó by 6Ó by 75Ó)

4. ATTACHING THE FRONT LEGS

Boards needed:

Front legs (2Ó by 8Ó by 58Ó)

5. THE RAILING SPACERS

Boards needed:

Railing spacers (two 18 1 / 4 Ó and one 13Ó lengths of 2Ó by

6Ó; you will cut the fourth spacer to fit after the others are

in place)

Railing post (2Ó by 2Ó by 21 1 / 2 Ó)

With your helper holding the structure upright, attach

the front legs (A) to the inner frame (F) using one 2

-inch

inches in from the end of the leg.

The top edge of each leg should be level with the top of the

outer frame ends.

Square the front legs by measuring diagonally. Adjust as

needed, then secure each with a second decking screw,

placed above or below the first. ( Note: Be careful to place

the screws as shown so they don’t get in the way of bolts to

be added later.)

-inch decking screws from B into the end of H. Do the

same with the other frame end. Position the frame cross-

piece as illus-

trated and secure

it with screws as

well. Finally,

screw the front

inner frame (F)

in position.

The slots into which the removable front railing slides are

created by using spacer boards (I) of various lengths. Work

from the right side to the left, using a railing post (P) as a

guide. Begin by screwing a 13-inch spacer in position (using

-inch spacer in posi-

tion (see photo). Repeat

the process with the other

-inch piece. Finally,

hold the post up as a guide

again, measure the re-

maining distance to the

edge of the left leg, and

cut the final spacer to fit.

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f a m i l y f un

decking screw, placed 3

With a helper, lift up the rear leg section you constructed

in Step 1. Place the back end of a frame end so the inner

frame (H) is flush on top with the leg (B) and the outer frame

(D) extends beside and above the leg (see photo). Sink two

inch decking screws), flush against the right leg with their

top edges even. Holding the railing post against the end of

that first spacer, screw the

½-

Rear View

6. BOLTING ON THE FRONT

OUTER FRAME

Boards needed:

Front outer frame side (2Ó by 8Ó by 78Ó)

8. ATTACHING THE REAR FRAME

AND SUPPORT

Boards needed:

Rear outer frame side (2Ó by 8Ó by 78Ó)

Rear support (2Ó by 4Ó by 76 1 / 2 Ó)

Mark the front outer frame (C) for drilling, as shown on

the diagram (holes located 4 inches in from the left end, cen-

tered vertically; 7 inches in from the right and left ends, 2

inches from top and bottom; and 39 inches in from both

ends, 2

7. LAYING IN THE BED BOARD

Boards needed:

Bed board ( 3 / 4 Ó plywood, cut to 39 1 / 2 Ó by 75Ó)

inch

bit as shown in diagram (holes located 4 inches in from each

end, centered vertically; 7 inches in from each end, 2 inches

from top and bottom). Continue holes through the legs and

secure with 3

Mark and drill the rear outer frame (C) with a

K-

inches from the top and bottom). With a helper,

position C over the railing spacers, flush with the top of them.

Temporarily secure it in place with decking screws or clamps.

Using a long

Lay the bed board (R) on the inner frame and secure with

-inch decking screws, tightening them down to below the

surface of the wood.

-inch-long carriage bolts, with washers and

nuts on the inside. Mark and drill the rear support (J), holes

centered 2 and 5 inches in from the edge of each leg, drilling

just through the support itself with the

-inch bit, drill the holes all the way through

to the inside of the structure, then secure with 5-inch-long

carriage bolts, attaching a washer and hex nut on the inside.

Remove clamps when done.

-inch bit.

Continue the holes into the back legs with a

-inch bit

and secure J with 3-inch lag screws and washers. You can

then remove or putty over the decking screws from step 1.

Þ/ ¹ß

Hole-drilling Pattern (for both front and rear frames)

Page

39"

Drill for Front Frame only

2 1 / 2 "

Drill for Rear Frame only

f a m i l y f un

Place bolt 4Ó

in from end

8 Ó

3Ó

Centerlines

Countersunk washers

and nuts

9Ó

9. THE PUPPET THEATER

AND BOOKCASE

Boards needed:

Puppet theater front/chalkboard ( 1 / 2 Ó plywood, cut to

30Ó by 41Ó)

Fixed shelf (1Ó by 8Ó by 38Ó)

3 adjustable shelves (1Ó by 8Ó by 37 1 / 2 Ó)

10. THE LADDER

Boards needed:

Ladder sides (2Ó by 3Ó, cut to fit)

Ladder rungs (six 16Ó lengths of handrail)

inch-long carriage bolts, with

washers and nuts countersunk on

the back side. Position the ladder

against the bed, 4 inches in from

the end. Draw guidelines on the

ends of the top rung, as shown in

the bottom photo, and hold the

rung so the lines match up with

your earlier marks on the sides of

the 2 by 3’s. Drill through the rung

into the frame with a long

Place a ladder side (K) in position against the bed frame at

roughly the angle shown in the photo. Cut the bottom at the

appropriate angle so it rests squarely on the floor, then mark

and cut the top angle so it meets the bed (see photograph, top

right). Cut the second ladder side to match. Lay the two sides

next to each other on the floor with the back edges up and draw

a centerline down each, from top to bottom, as shown in dia-

gram. Mark the rung holes, spaced 9 inches apart and begin-

ning 3 inches down from the top. (The first one will fall on

the angle. Extend that mark along the side of the 2 by 3. You

will need it later when attaching the ladder to the bed.) Using

a 1-inch bit (for a countersink for the nuts), drill

Square the legs on the puppet theater end by measuring

diagonally. Position the plywood front (S) — painted with

chalkboard paint, if desired — 1 inch above floor level and

secure with 2

-inch

bit. When you have sunk the bit in as far as you can, remove

the ladder and continue the hole through to the inside of the

frame. Secure the ladder in

place with 8-inch-long car-

riage bolts. ( Tip: If the ladder

attachment bolts don’t reach

all the way through on the

inside, you can countersink

the nuts with a 1-inch bit or

get 9-inch bolts and trim

them with a hacksaw.)

-inch

bit) and finishing washers. Attach the fixed shelf (L) flush

with the top edge of the plywood using four corner braces.

Secure S to L with additional 2-inch decking screws and fin-

ishing washers.

Attach two 2-foot shelf standards to the inside of each

leg, insert 12 shelf supports, and place the three adjustable

shelves (M) in position.

-inch decking screws (pre-drill with

inch in at

each spot where the rung and centerlines intersect, except on

the topmost one. ( Tip: Wrap masking tape

inch up the bit

-inch bit to drill through the center

of these holes and out the other side of the 2 by 3.

Drill the holes in the rungs (N)

inch in from each end

with the

-inch bit. Attach the bottom five rungs using 3

Page

f a m i l y f un

as a guide.) Then use a

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