Cabinet - Bracket Feet.pdf - plans - kagas1

O NLINE E XTRAS

B RACKET F EET

racket feet have just the right com-

bination of strength and elegance.

The thick blocks provide plenty of

support for a project like the blanket

chest in Woodsmith No. 145. But the

graceful contours of the faces and the

cur ves of the scalloped profiles keep

the feet from looking too heavy. All in

all, they’re pretty impressive.

On the other hand, if you’ve never

made bracket feet, it’s easy to be a

bit intimidated by all these cur ves.

Don’t be. They don’t require nearly

as much handwork as you might

expect — most of the shaping is

done at the table saw and band saw.

FROM ROUGH TO READY . Bracket feet

start out as 1 1 / 2 "-thick blanks. But as

you can see in the margin, I glue

two 3 / 4 "-thick pieces together, so I

don’t have to buy 1 1 / 2 "-thick stock.

The blanks are then cut oversized

(4 1 / 2 " x 16"), so the two halves of

each foot can be cut from one blank.

All of the work of shaping the face

profile is done while the blanks are

oversized. Then they’ll be cut in half

and mitered, and the cur ved scallop

will be cut (see the pattern on the

next page). Finally the halves of

each front foot will be glued together.

Roughing Out the Face Profile

{ Bracket feet look

like they were cut

from thick blocks

of wood, but these

blanks were made

with two pieces of

3 / 4 "-thick stock.

With the blanks in hand, you’re ready

to create the S-shaped profile on the

face of each blank. All the rough work

for this is done at the table saw, start-

ing with a simple cove (Steps 1-3).

COVE SET-UP . A cove is cut by push-

ing a board across the table saw at

an angle, guided by a pair of wood

fences. If you’ve never cut a cove

before, don’t worr y. Steps 1 and 2

will show you exactly how to set up

your table saw. And cutting the cove

is done in multiple passes, “nib-

bling” away only 1 / 16 " of material

with each pass (Step 3).

To find the correct angle of the

fences, I first mark the entr y and

exit points of the blade when it’s

raised to its full height, which is 5 / 8 "

for this cove (Step 1). Then I make a

posterboard “frame” (with a 1 3 / 4 "-

wide opening and a 3 / 4 " border) and

Blade tooth

exit

Raise

blade "

Second

fence

%/8

NOTE:

Lower blade

below table

surface

Blade tooth

entry

Align

template

with marks

on tape

16"

Blank

for

feet

Cut

cove in

multiple

passes

Tape

NOTE:

View from

back of saw

#/4"

First

fence

). Then

using tape, mark where the teeth of

the blade enter and exit the table.

final depth of the cove (

%/8"

inside window (the cove’s

final width). Then angle the template

so the long edges touch the marks.

#/4"

3 With both fences in place, set the

!/16"

increments and

repeat until cove is

%/8"

deep.

From Woodsmith Magazine

#/4

!/2

1 To begin, raise the blade to the

2 Next, make a template with a

high and make a pass.

Raise blade in

blade

angle it until it touches the entr y

and exit points (Step 2). Now the

first fence can be clamped in place.

To position the second fence, sim-

ply clamp it to the table with one of

the blanks sandwiched in between.

(The blank should slide smoothly.)

CUT COVE . At this point, you’re

ready to cut the coves (Step 3). Start

with the blade set 1 / 16 " above the

table, and don’t remove any more

than 1 / 16 " in one pass. Stop when the

cove is at its full height ( 5 / 8 ").

MAKE TEMPLATE . Now before you do

any more shaping, it’s a good idea to

make a template. (As you can see in

the photo below, I made mine out of

hardboard.) The pattern below is

the only one you need for the feet.

The cur ve on the end will help you

create the face profile. (The scal-

loped profile will be cut later.)

With your template in hand, set it

on the ends of each blank and align it

with the cove. Then trace around the

template, as shown in the photo

below. Now you’ve got a good guide

for what the profile will look like and

where to remove the waste.

FINISHED WIDTH . The next step is to

begin removing the waste by trim-

ming the edges of the blanks (Step

4). With the profile already drawn on

the ends, all you need to do is set the

fence so the blade aligns with the

profile lines. (You’ll end up trimming

about 1 / 4 " or so from each edge.)

COMPLETE COVE . Now you’re ready to

elongate one edge of the cove. You

could do this with a rasp or a file, but

I removed most of the waste much

quicker with a 1 / 2 "-wide stacked

dado set, as you can see in Step 5.

To remove the waste, you’ll need

to adjust both the angle and the

height of the blade, but there aren’t

any hard and fast dimensions to

work with here. The best way to set

up the saw is to crouch behind the

saw and eye down the saw blade

(with the blank behind the blade so

you can see the profile.)

Don’t attempt to cut right to the

line. The idea is just to get close

enough so the final shaping doesn’t

take a lot of time (or effort). And be

ready to make several passes, reset-

ting the fence and the angle of the

blade with each pass.

ROUNDOVER . After the cove is com-

pleted, the roundover located on the

top, outside corner can be roughed

out. Again I used the table saw to

remove much of the waste, but this

time, I used a regular saw blade tilt-

ed 45°, as shown in Step 6.

END VIEW

FIRST: Draw

profile on ends

NOTE: Set blade

to waste side of

profile lines

NOTE: Blade tilted 45º

SECON D :

Tr i m waste from

both sides

Waste

Top,

outside

corner

Profile

Remove waste

in multiple passes

Dado blade

ends of each blank (see photo

below), rip them to final width (4"),

trimming waste from each edge.

removing waste with dado blade

set at angle. Adjust rip fence and dado

blade between passes as needed.

each blank can be trimmed. To do

this, tilt a regular saw blade 45º. Then

sneak up on the final layout line.

Bracket Foot Pattern

Scalloped

profile

!/4"

grid

Face

profile

NOTE: See full size pattern on last page of this article.

{ Hardboard makes a good, reusable

template for the bracket feet profiles,

see pattern at left. To position the

template on the blank, just line it up

with the cove you’ve already cut.

From Woodsmith Magazine

5 Next, extend shape of cove by

6 Now the top, outside corner of

4 With the profile laid out on the

Face Profile: Clean-Up

Up to this point, all the work at the

table saw has been to get the face of

the blanks to rough shape. Now it’s

time to clean up all the unwanted

shoulder lines and saw marks left by

the saw blade so that you end up with

a smooth cur ve on the face profile.

This is where the handwork of

making bracket feet comes in, and

you’ll find there’s really not much to

it. Each blank only has a little mate-

rial left to remove, and the profiles

drawn on the ends will guide you.

But don’t be too critical. The bracket

feet end up far enough apart so that

no one will notice if the profiles

aren’t exactly identical.

OUTSIDE CURVES . The areas that

need the most shaping are the out-

side (convex) cur ves at the top and

bottom of the feet. I shaped them

with a block plane set to take a thin

shaving, as shown in Step 7. (But

Block plane

Sandpaper

wrapped

around

plumbing

insulation

Smooth

outside curves

with plane

Sand all

ridges and

saw marks

plane any hard lines, removing

enough waste to create a gentle curve

that matches the layout on the ends.

away, smooth out the curve using

a piece of sandpaper wrapped around

a short length of plumbing insulation.

you can also get the job done with a

rasp or a Surform-type plane, which

looks like a block plane but works

like a rasp.) Start by smoothing out

the noticeable shoulders. Then sim-

ply keep taking thin shavings, fol-

lowing the profile drawn on the end.

INSIDE CURVES . The inside cur ves

are even easier. All you need to do is

sand or scrape them (Step 8). I

wrapped sandpaper around a length

of plumbing insulation. It provides

just enough support and flexibility

to sand the cur ve efficiently.

Miter & Spline Joint

Now that the profile of each blank is

complete, they can be cut into indi-

vidual pieces and one end of each

front foot piece can be mitered.

LABEL BLANKS . But before you get

started, it’s a good idea to label the

pieces, as shown in the drawing

below. For each front foot, you want

to glue the ends you cut apart back

together — this time joining them

with splined miters.

There are two reasons for doing it

this way. For one thing, the grain on

the faces of the halves will match up

and “wrap around” the foot. Plus,

since you have already done the

final shaping, this technique will

ensure the profile of the pieces

match as closely as possible. (You

may still need to do some light sand-

ing after they’re glued together.)

MITER FRONT PIECES . With the parts

labeled and cut apart, the next step

is to miter one end of each front foot

piece, as shown in Step 9. The nice

thing here is you don’t have to

worr y about an exact length. That

will be taken care of when you cre-

ate the scallop profile later. But I still

added a stop block to the auxiliar y

miter gauge fence so the piece

wouldn’t shift as it was being

pushed across the blade.

After mitering the pieces, I low-

ered the blade and repositioned the

stop block to cut a kerf for a spline

(Step 10). These splines are added

mostly to keep the pieces aligned

when you glue them together.

BACK FEET . Because a project like

the blanket chest is usually against a

bed or wall, only the front feet are

mitered. The back feet are simply

supported with a small triangular

brace in back (refer to Step 17).

Stop

block

FIRST:

Cut blanks

in half and

label pieces

Kerf for

spline

!/8"

Miter these ends

for best profile

and grain match

Front

foot

Hardboard

spline

NOTE:

Leave blanks at

least 7 " long

#/8"

!/4

SECOND:

Miter two blanks

for front feet

(Steps 9 & 10)

the blanks in half. (See drawing

at left.) Then miter the four pieces

that will be used for the front feet.

each mitered end for a spline

to help align the pieces. Then cut a 1 / 8 "

hardboard spline to fit in the kerf.

From Woodsmith Magazine

7 On the blank’s outside curves,

8 Once the ridges have been planed

9 With the profile complete, cut all

10 Now cut a 3 / 8 "-deep kerf in

Scalloped Profile

Template

NOTE: Back

feet are

mirrored

Before you can glue the feet together,

there’s still one more profile to cut. It’s

cut on the end of the blank (instead

of on the face), and the work is done

at the band saw and drill press

(instead of the table saw). But the first

thing to do is lay out the profile.

LAY OUT PROFILES . You’ve already

made the template for this cur ve,

refer to the pattern on page 2. But

this time, the front and back legs are

slightly different. The front feet are

7" long overall (Step 11), while the

back feet are only 6 1 / 2 " (Step 12).

For both feet, I laid out a line across

the back side of each blank and then

aligned the template with this line.

With the back feet, the thing to

keep in mind is that they’re not iden-

tical. With their contoured faces,

they’re mirrored images of each

other, so make sure you end up with

both a right and a left back foot.

SHAPE PROFILE . These profiles are

easier to create than the face pro-

files. I roughed out the profile at the

band saw (Step 13). Then I sanded

as much as possible with a drum

sander (Step 14) before finishing

them with a little hand sanding.

F ront

foot

L ay out

line 7” from

tip of miter

Back

foot

Lay out line

6 " from end

of blank

!/2

pattern onto back side of the

mitered pieces. Position the template

so the feet will end up 7" long.

12 Lay out scallop on each back

foot blank so it will end up

" long. Flip template for second

foot so back pieces are mirrored.

!/2

Waste

Drum

sander

Cut to waste

side of line

13 Cut out scalloped shape on

each foot, sand the scalloped

profile to the layout lines, using a drum

sander in the drill press.

Foot Assembly

Now that the profiles are complete,

the feet are ready to be assembled.

FRONT FEET . To join the halves of the

front feet, I wanted to use clamps,

but there’s no good place to position

them. So I glued small clamping

blocks to the top and bottom edges

parallel with the mitered end. And to

make sure I could remove them eas-

ily, I used plywood for the blocks

and liquid hide glue to attach them,

as shown in the margin photo. The

plywood can be split fairly easily

between the bottom two plies, and

then by applying a little hot water to

the plywood, you can loosen the

bond of the hide glue. Then the foot

can be scraped clean, and the spline

can be trimmed flush.

BACK FEET . To provide plenty of sup-

por for the back feet, I cut small tri-

angular braces and glued and

screwed them to the back of the

feet, as shown in Step 17 below. W

FIRST: Glue

plywood clamp blocks

parallel with miters

Hardboard

spline

FIRST: Remove

plywood above

bottom ply

Back

foot

Bracket

foot brace

{ These clamping

blocks are ply-

wood so they’ll

split easily along

the plies. And

they’re glued in

place with hide

glue, which can

be loosened with

a little hot water.

SECOND:

Glue two

halves

together

SECOND:

Pare away waste

and sand smooth

#8 x 1 "

Fh screw

!/4

ing blocks to the pieces par-

allel to the mitered ends (see margin).

Then glue halves together.

pry away at bottom ply. Then

loosen glue with hot water, pare away

ply with chisel, and sand smooth.

and drill counterbored shank

holes. (Use handscrew to hold brace.)

Then glue and screw to foot.

From Woodsmith Magazine

11 Transfer scalloped part of the

both the front and back feet

using the band saw, staying to the

waste side of the layout line.

14 To complete the shaping of

15 Using hide glue, attach clamp-

16 To remove clamping blocks,

17 For back foot, make a brace

Bracket Foot Pattern

Woodsmith No.139 - Bedside Chest

No. 145 - Paneled Blanket Chest

4 "

WASTE

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