injector_install_howto.pdf

TDI Injector/Nozzle Swap Howto

Special thanks to KERMA for supplying the nozzles, to GeWilli for last-minute advice, to GoFaster, eidie2,

Betzel, Boundless, and The Ripster for constructive criticism and to the good folks of FredÓs

( http://www.tdiclub.com )

This document explains injector removal, nozzle swap, and injector reinstallation on a VW TDI. The car

used was a 2001 Golf (ALH engine). The instructions should be similar for earlier TDI engines (AHU and

1Z). I welcome email with comments or questions about the content of this howto!

Anything you do to your own car is AT YOUR OWN RISK! I deny any responsibility or liability for

anything that you may do to your car. I'm not a professional mechanic; I just like tinkering with my

car. Don't do any of this if you aren't comfortable with modifying your engine and be prepared to

deal with the consequences if you screw something up.

If you intend to use this document as a guide, READ THE WHOLE THING FIRST. Required tools and

procedures are sprinkled throughout, so make sure that you have all required tools beforehand, AND that

you are comfortable with every required procedure.

IÓve broken the job down into four sections: removing injectors, swapping nozzles, installing injectors, and

ECU adjustments. If you just want to install new injectors and arenÓt doing a nozzle swap, just skip that

part. ItÓs recommended that after installing nozzles you get them pop-tested by a local Bosch shop

( http://www.boschservice.com ) certified on VE equipment. Any shop knowledgeable about

Dodge/Cummins diesels should be able to help. They can set the spring preloads in the nozzles and make

sure that the spray pattern is good. These shops can only set one of the two springs in the injector, but

thatÓs better than nothing.

KERMA ( http://www.kermatdi.com ) has a tool that can set both spring preloads. If you want perfectly set

nozzles, heÓs the guy to get in contact with.

Before you start, make sure you have:

• 17mm wrench

• 15mm wrench

• 13mm socket

• 10mm socket

• Ratchet and various extensions

• Torque wrench

• Paper/shop towels. Lots of them if youÓre swapping nozzles.

• Diesel fuel or biodiesel for cleaning (if youÓre swapping nozzles)

• Toothbrush (if youÓre swapping nozzles)

• 4 new sealing washers (046 130 219 A)

It would be ideal to have (but not absolutely necessary):

• 17mm flare-nut (line) wrench Î This is the best tool to use on the brass fuel line fittings. A

standard 17mm wrench will work, but be careful not to round off corners. If you can get an offset

one, even better.

• 17mm crows-foot wrench Î For setting torque on the fuel lines

• Extra braided fuel line in case the stuff you have disintegrates

VERY IMPORTANT!!!! You must do this on a COLD engine! Be sure to let the engine cool for at least

four hours before removing the injectors.

Injector Removal

Pop your hood and remove the engine cover (the three 10mm bolts under the round plastic covers). You

should see something like the photo below.

Clean the nuts on the ends of the metal fuel lines, both at the injectors and at the pump. Cleanliness is

important here. You donÓt want dirt getting into the fuel system! Then, remove the two black plastic clips

holding each pair of fuel lines together. You need to use a flat screwdriver to pop them open, and then they

can be pushed off the lines. Remove the braided fuel return line going back to the fuel pump off of the

number 4 injector (on the far right). Be careful not to damage the nipple on the injector! Unclip it from the

plastic clip on the vacuum reservoir (sphere on the right) and put it somewhere out of the way. You might

want to put a paper towel around the end to catch any fuel that drips out.

Now, move the metal fuel lines out of the way in order to make room to do other thingsÈ

NOTE: At this point IÓll mention that there are two schools of thought in removing injectorsÈ doing all

four at once or two at a time. I discuss this in the installation section at the end. But thatÓs OK, because

youÓre going to read this whole document before taking anything apart, arenÓt you?!

Use a 17mm flare-nut wrench (or your regular 17mm wrench) to crack the fuel lines at the pump. You

wonÓt take these off the pump, youÓll just rotate the lines away from the injectors to get them out of the

way, so just loosen the nuts about half a turn. You might want to put a towel underneath the pump to catch

any drips. I didnÓt see any on mine, but thereÓs lots of rubber underneath there, so it would be a good

precaution.

Now do the same thing at the injectors. These are going to come off, but loosen them all first. You should

just need to crack them with the wrench and then loosen them by hand.

When all the lines are loose, lift them up and away from the injectors. Let them hang off of the pump. Be

VERY careful with the lines when you move themÈ some need to be moved before others due to their

shape. YouÓll see. ItÓs very important that the lines not be bent or stressed too much! Keep this in mind

during the next few steps as well.

Notice that the black bus bar for the glow plugs has been removed and put to the side. The glow plugs sit

in the head right next to each injector. If youÓve ever changed spark plugs on a gasser (ugh!), the connector

is very similar. Just pull on it and itÓll pop off.

Injector three is larger than the rest and has a wire coming off the top of it. This is the wire for the needle-

lift sensor. It leads to a brown connector, anchored to a metal clip, which is then plugged into the engine

wiring harness. If you look down underneath injector 3, youÓll see it next to a gray connector (the engine

speed sender). Disconnect the harness from the brown connector (you need to push in the metal retaining

clips on either side of the harness plug) and lift the brown connector out of the clip. This was very difficult

on my engine! I think that some pollen and gook had gotten in there and the brown connector wasnÓt

budging. Push up from below on both sides; wiggle it if necessary, but BE GENTLE. Breaking this means

buying a new #3 injector.

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