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The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lourdes, by Robert Hugh Benson

The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lourdes, by Robert Hugh Benson

 

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Title: Lourdes

 

Author: Robert Hugh Benson

 

Release Date: July 1, 2006 [EBook #18729]

 

Language: English

 

Character set encoding: UTF-8

 

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               LOURDES

 

                 BY

 

       THE VERY REV. MONSIGNOR

          ROBERT HUGH BENSON

 

 

WITH EIGHT FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS

 

           ST. LOUIS MO.:

        B. HERDER, PUBLISHER

          17, S. BROADWAY

 

              LONDON:

           MANRESA PRESS

          ROEHAMPTON, S.W.

 

              1914

 

 

 

 

Nihil Obstat:

 

  S. GEORGIUS KIERAN HYLAND, S.T.D.,

      CENSOR DEPUTATUS

 

Imprimatur:

 

  GULIELMUS F. BROWN,

      VICARIUS GENERALIS,

        SOUTHWARCENSI.

 

_15 Maii, 1914._

 

 

 

 

PREFACE.

 

 

Since writing the following pages six years ago, I have had the

privilege of meeting a famous French scientist--to whom we owe one of

the greatest discoveries of recent years--who has made a special study

of Lourdes and its phenomena, and of hearing him comment upon what takes

place there. He is, himself, at present, not a practising Catholic; and

this fact lends peculiar interest to his opinions. His conclusions, so

far as he has formulated them, are as follows:

 

(1) That no scientific hypothesis up to the present accounts

satisfactorily for the phenomena. Upon his saying this to me I breathed

the word "suggestion"; and his answer was to laugh in my face, and to

tell me, practically, that this is the most ludicrous hypothesis of all.

 

(2) That, so far as he can see, the one thing necessary for such cures

as he himself has witnessed or verified, is the atmosphere of prayer.

Where this rises to intensity the number of cures rises with it; where

this sinks, the cures sink too.

 

(3) That he is inclined to think that there is a transference of

vitalizing force either from the energetic faith of the sufferer, or

from that of the bystanders. He instanced an example in which his wife,

herself a qualified physician, took part. She held in her arms a child,

aged two and a half years, blind from birth, during the procession of

the Blessed Sacrament. As the monstrance came opposite, tears began to

stream from the child's eyes, hitherto closed. When it had passed, the

child's eyes were open and seeing. This Mme. ---- tested by dangling her

bracelet before the child, who immediately clutched at it, but, from the

fact that she had never learned to calculate distance, at first failed

to seize it. At the close of the procession Mme. ----, who herself

related to me the story, was conscious of an extraordinary exhaustion

for which there was no ordinary explanation. I give this suggestion as

the scientist gave it to me--the suggestion of some kind of

_transference_ of vitality; and make no comment upon it, beyond saying

that, superficially at any rate, it does not appear to me to conflict

with the various accounts of miracles given in the Gospel in which the

faith of the bystanders, as well as of sufferers, appeared to be as

integral an element in the miracle as the virtue which worked it.

 

Owing to the time that has elapsed since the following pages were

written for the _Ave Maria_--by the kindness of whose editor they are

reprinted now--it is impossible for me to verify the spelling of all the

names that occur in the course of the narrative. I made notes while at

Lourdes, and from those notes wrote my account; it is therefore

extremely probable that small errors of spelling may have crept in,

which I am now unable to correct.

 

                                               ROBERT HUGH BENSON.

 

     _Church of our Lady of Lourdes,

                               New York,

                                     Lent, 1914_

 

 

 

 

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

 

 

     THE BASILICA. FRONT VIEW       _Frontispiece_

 

     DR. BOISSARIE                   _to face p._ 16

 

     BUREAU DES CONSTATATIONS               "          26

 

     THE GROTTO IN 1858                     "          36

 

     THE GROTTO IN 1914                     "          46

 

     THE BLESSING OF THE SICK               "          56

 

     THE BASILICA. SIDE VIEW                "          66

 

     BERNADETTE                             "          78

 

 

 

 

I.

 

 

The first sign of our approach to Lourdes was a vast wooden cross,

crowning a pointed hill. We had been travelling all day, through the

August sunlight, humming along the straight French roads beneath the

endless avenues; now across a rich plain, with the road banked on either

side to avert the spring torrents from the Pyrenees; now again mounting

and descending a sudden shoulder of hill. A few minutes ago we had

passed into Tarbes, the cathedral city of the diocese in which Lourdes

lies; and there, owing to a little accident, we had been obliged to

halt, while the wheels of the car were lifted, with incredible

ingenuity, from the deep gutter into which the chauffeur had, with the

best intentions, steered them. It was here, in the black eyes, the

dominant profiles, the bright colours, the absorbed childish interest of

the crowd, in their comments, their laughter, their seriousness, and

their accent, that the South showed itself almost unmixed. It was

market-day in Tarbes; and when once more we were on our way, we still

went slowly; passing, almost all the way into Lourdes itself, a

long-drawn procession--carts and foot passengers, oxen, horses, dogs,

and children--drawing nearer every minute toward that ring of solemn

blue hills that barred the view to Spain.

 

It is difficult to describe with what sensations I came to Lourdes. As a

Christian man, I did not dare to deny that miracles happened; as a

reasonably humble man, I did not dare to deny that they happened at

Lourdes; yet, I suppose, my attitude even up to now had been that of a

reverent agnostic--the attitude, in fact, of a majority of Christians on

this particular point--Christians, that is, who resemble the Apostle

Thomas in his less agreeable aspect. I had heard and read a good deal

about psychology, about the effect of mind on matter and of nerves on

tissue; I had reflected upon the infection of an ardent crowd; I had

read Zola's dishonest book;[1] and these things, coupled with the

extreme difficulty which the imagination finds in realizing what it has

never experienced--since, after all, miracles are confessedly

miraculous, and therefore unusual--the effect of all this was to render

my mental state a singularly detached one. I believed? Yes, I suppose

so; but it was a halting act of faith pure and simple; it was not yet

either sight or real conviction.

 

The cross, then, was the first glimpse of Lourdes' presence; and ten

minutes later we were in the town itself.

 

Lourdes is not beautiful, though it must once have been. It was once a

little Franco-Spanish town, set in the lap of the hills, with a swift,

broad, shallow stream, the Gave, flowing beneath it. It is now

cosmopolitan, and therefore undistinguished. As we passed slowly through

the crowded streets--for the National Pilgrimage was but now

arriving--we saw endless rows of shops and booths sheltering beneath

tall white blank houses, as correct and as expressionless as a

brainless, well-bred man. Here and there we passed a great hotel. The

crowd about our wheels was almost as cosmopolitan as a Roman crowd. It

was largely French, as that is largely Italian; but the Spaniards were

there, vivid-faced men and women, severe Britons, solemn Teutons; and, I

have no doubt, Italians, Belgians, Flemish and Austrians as well. At

least I heard during my three days' stay all the languages that I could

recognize, and many that I could not. There were many motor-cars there

besides our own, carriages, carts, bell-clanging trams, and the litters

of the sick. Presently we dismounted in a side street, and set out to

walk to the Grotto, through the hot evening sunshine.

 

The first sign of sanctity that we saw, as we came out at the end of a

street, was the mass of churches built on the rising ground above the

river. Imagine first a great oval of open ground, perhaps two hundred by

three hundred yards in area, crowded now with groups as busy as ants,

partly embraced by two long white curving arms of masonry rising

steadily to their junction; at the point on this side where the ends

should meet if they were prolonged, stands a white stone image of Our

Lady upon a pedestal, crowned, and half surrounded from beneath by some

kind of metallic garland arching upward. At the farther end the two

curves of masonry of which I have spoken, rising all the way by steps,

meet upon a terrace. This terrace is, so to speak, the centre of gravity

of the whole.

 

For just above it stands the flattened dome of the Rosary Church, of

which the doors are beneath the terrace, placed upon broad flights of

steps. Immediately above the dome is the entrance to the crypt of the

basilica; and, above that again, reached by further flights of steps,

are the doors of the basilica; and, above it, the roof of the church

itself, with its soaring white spire high over all.

 

Let me be frank. These buildings are not really beautiful. They are

enormous, but they are not impressive; they are elaborate and fine and

white, but they are not graceful. I am not sure what is the matter with

them; but I think it is that they appear to be turned out of a machine.

They are too trim; they are like a well-dressed man who is not quite a

gentleman; they are like a wedding guest; they are _haute-bourgeoise_,

they are not the nobility. It is a terrible pity, but I suppose it could

not be helped, since they were allowed so little time to grow. There is

no sense of reflectiveness about them, no patient growth of character,

as in those glorious cathedrals, Amiens, Chartres, Beauvais, which I had

so lately seen. There is nothing in reserve; they say everything, they

suggest nothing. They have no imaginative vista.

 

We said not one word to one another. We threaded our way across the

ground, diagonally, seeing as we went the Bureau de Constatations (or

the office where the doctors sit), contrived near the left arm of the

terraced steps; and passed out under the archway, to find ourselves with

the churches on our left, and on our right the flowing Gave, confined on

this side by a terraced walk, with broad fields beyond the stream.

 

The first thing I noticed were the three roofs of the _piscines_, on the

left side of the road, built under the cliff on which the churches

stand. I shall have more to say of them presently, but now it is enough

to remark that they resemble three little chapels, joined in one, each

with its own doorway; an open paved space lies across the entrances,

where the doctors and the priests attend upon the sick. This open space

is fenced in all about, to keep out the crowd that perpetually seethes

there. We went a few steps farther, worked our way in among the people,

and fell on our knees.

 

Overhead, the cliff towered up, bare hanging rock beneath, grass and

soaring trees above; and at the foot of the cliff a tall, irregular

cave. There are two openings of this cave; the one, the larger, is like

a cage of railings, with the gleam of an altar in the gloom beyond, a

hundred burning candles, and sheaves and stacks of crutches clinging to

the broken roofs of rock; the other, and smaller, and that farther from

us, is an opening in the cliff, shaped somewhat like a _vesica_. The

grass still grows there, with ferns and the famous climbing shrub; and

within the entrance, framed in it, stands Mary, in white and blue, as

she stood fifty years ago, raised perhaps twenty feet above the ground.

 

Ah, that image!... I said, "As she stood there!" Yet it could not have

been so; for surely even simple Bernadette would not have fallen on her

knees. It is too white, it is too blue; it is, like the three churches,

placed magnificently, yet not impressive; fine and slender, yet not

graceful.

 

But we knelt there without unreality, with the river running swift

behind us; for we knelt where a holy child had once knelt before a

radiant vision, and with even more reason; for even if the one, as some

say, had been an hallucination, were those sick folk an hallucination?

Was Pierre de Rudder's mended leg an hallucination, or the healed wounds

of Marie Borel? Or were those hundreds upon hundreds of disused crutches

an illusion? Did subjectivity create all these? If so, what greater

miracle can be demanded?

 

And there was more than that. For when later, at Argelès, I looked over

the day, I was able to formulate for the first time the extraordinary

impressions that Lourdes had given me. There was everything hostile to

my peace--an incalculable crowd, an oppressive heat, dust, noise,

weariness; there was the disappointment of the churches and the image;

there was the sour unfamiliarity of the place and the experience; and

yet I was neither troubled nor depressed nor irritated nor disappointed.

It appeared to me as if some great benign influence were abroad,

soothing and satisfying; lying like a great summer air over all, to

quiet and to stimulate. I cannot describe this further; I can only say

that it never really left me during those three days, I saw sights that

would have saddened me elsewhere--apparent injustices, certain

disappointments, dashed hopes that would almost have broken my heart;

and yet that great Power was over all, to reconcile, to quiet and to

reassure. To leave Lourdes at the end was like leaving home.

 

After a few minutes before the Grotto, we climbed the hill behind, made

an appointment for my Mass on the morrow; and, taking the car again,

moved slowly through the crowded streets, and swiftly along the country

roads, up to Argelès, nearly a dozen miles away.

 

FOOTNOTES:

 

[1] The epithet is deliberate. He relates in his book, "Lourdes," the

story of an imaginary case of a girl, suffering from tuberculosis, who

goes to Lourdes as a pilgrim, and is, apparently, cured of her disease.

It breaks out, however, again during her return home; and the case would

appear therefore to be one of those in which, owing to fierce excitement

and the mere power of suggestion, there is a temporary amelioration, but

no permanent, or supernatural, cure. Will it be believed that the

details of this story, all of which are related with great

particularity, and observed by Zola himself, were taken from an actual

case that occurred during one of his visits--all the details except the

relapse? There was no relapse: the cure was complete and permanent. When

Dr. Boissarie later questioned the author as to the honesty of this

literary device, saying that he had understood him to have stated that

he had come to Lourdes for the purpose of an impartial investigation,

Zola answered that the characters in the book were his own, and that he

could make them do what he liked. It is on these principles that the

book is constructed. It must be added that Zola followed up the case,

and had communications with the _miraculée_ long after her cure had been

shown to be permanent, and before his book appeared.

 

 

 

 

II.

 

 

We were in Lourdes again next morning a little after six o'clock; and

already it might have been high noon, for the streets were one moving

mass of pilgrims. From every corner came gusts of singing; and here and

there through the crowd already moved the _brancardiers_--men of every

nation with shoulder-straps and cross--bearing the litters with their

piteous burdens.

 

I was to say Mass in the crypt; and when I arrived there at last, the

church was full from end to end. The interior was not so disappointing

as I had feared. It had a certain solid catacombic gloom beneath its low

curved roof, which, if it had not been for the colours and some of the

details, might very nearly have come from the hand of a good architect.

The arrangements for the pilgrims were as bad as possible; there was no

order, no marshalling; they moved crowd against crowd like herds of

bewildered sheep. Some were for Communion, some for Mass only, some for

confession; and they pushed patiently this way and that in every

direction. It was a struggle before I got my vestments; I produced a

letter from the Bishop of Rodez, with whom I had lunched a few days

before; I argued, I deprecated, I persuaded, I quoted. Everything once

more was against my peace of mind; yet I have seldom said Mass with more

consolations than in that tiny sanctuary of the high Altar.... An

ecclesiastic served, and an old priest knelt devoutly at a prie-Dieu.

 

When the time for Communion came, I turned about and saw but one sea of

faces stretching from the altar rail into as much of the darkness as I

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