Cabinet - Kitchen Island - Leaf Table.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - amok10

leaf table

Leaves dropped, this traditional oak table makes an ideal kitchen island.

Leaves extended, it’s a small breakfast table

ditional favourite, but the

one I’ve designed takes a

few hidden, modern liber-

ties. The most helpful is

also the least obvious—ready-

turned legs. In today’s wood mar-

ket, it’s often only slightly more

expensive to buy high-quality legs

than it is to purchase thick wood at

retail prices, then turn them your-

self. I also used metal tabletop

clips to secure the top, instead of

under-table screw blocks or screws

driven into pocket holes. Clips

offer fast, easy, secure perfor-

mance, while letting the solid

wood tabletop move with the sea-

sons. Traditional furniture wasn’t

usually built with as much concern

for seasonal movement because

old-time woodworkers never

planned to accommodate the wide

humidity swings common in

today’s centrally heated homes.

Building new furniture exactly like

the old often leads to cracks

and trouble.

I planed my own 1"-

thick rough oak for

this table, creating the

7 ⁄ 8 " stock you see listed for most

parts on the materials list. Just

about any other wood will do fine,

too. This thicker-than-standard

stock looks much better than regu-

lar 3 ⁄ 4 " material for this project, and

it even costs less if you begin with

rough lumber bought directly from

the mill. This is just one advantage

of owning a thickness planer.

Maple, ash, cherry, and pine are all

excellent options. Whatever you

use, get the hinges and tabletop

mounting clips you’ll need before

making sawdust. The exact size of

this hardware will affect some

important steps along the way.

Gary uses a Ryobi JS048 jigsaw to cut the corner shape on each leaf. The piece is

securely clamped, and Gary uses his thumb on the base plate to guide the saw

position on top with a pencil. Next,

cut a 1 ⁄ 2 " x 1 ⁄ 2 " x 5 1 ⁄ 2 "-long mortise in

the centre of the four leg faces

that’ll join with the side skirts. It’s

best to do this operation with a car-

bide bit in a table-mounted router,

taking 1 ⁄ 4 "-deep passes. Even if your

router has the power to cut each

mortise in one go, you’ll get

smoother results if you take it in sev-

eral steps. Spiral-shaped bits do an

excellent job in this application.

The end frames span the short

distance between pairs of legs,

encasing the drawer fronts. Cut the

long and short end frame members

to size, then use glue and screws to

join them into rectangles measur-

ing 2" thick x 6" high x 13" wide.

Use glue and clamps to secure these

frames to the inner faces of the legs,

the back edges of the frames flush

with the inside leg corners.

the delicate beading that surrounds

each of the table’s end frame draw-

er openings. Start by cutting four,

48" lengths of straight-grained,

knot-free wood into 1 ⁄ 4 " x 1" strips,

then rout a half-round profile on

one edge using a table-mounted

router and featherboards. This

shape is called a bullnose, and it’s a

classic detail that’s seen most often

in old woodwork. It’s a wonderful

visual feature—just one of the great

things you can explore in a home

workshop. Install carefully mitred

strips of bullnose beading around

both drawer openings, and along

the bottom of the end frames,

between each leg. The strips’

rounded, outer edges should sit 1 ⁄ 8 "

proud of the frame. Although a

mitre saw is the ideal tool to cut

these parts, it’s not the best one for

fine-tuning the length of pieces that

are just a little too long. The easiest

way to shorten strips of bullnose

beading by just a few thousandths of

an inch is with a block plane.

Getting Started

Whether you buy or make your legs,

they need a 2 3 ⁄ 4 " x 2 3 ⁄ 4 " square top

end that extends 7" down before

hitting any turned profile. Grain

patterns will vary from leg to leg, of

course, so take a close look and

assign each one a particular spot in

the table’s final design. Mark the

Adding Details

It’s often the little things that make

a woodworking project shine, like

T he drop-leaf table is a tra-

Gary’s advice

I planed my own 1"-thick rough

oak for this table, creating the

⁄ 8 " stock used for most parts.

This thicker-than-standard stock

looks much better than regular

⁄ 4 " material for this project, and

it even costs less if you begin

with rough lumber bought

directly from a mill. This is just

one advantage of owning a

The view from underneath, showing the leg, skirt and drawer

undercarriage assembly. You can turn your legs, or buy them

factory-made, as long as the square ends are at least 7" long

thickness planer

Peeling a few curls of wood off the

back face of bullnose beading (not

the mitred end) is often the best

way to fit a mitre.

you rush ahead and join the skirts to

the legs, be sure to cut a 1 ⁄ 8 "-wide x 3 ⁄ 8 "-

deep groove along the inside face of

the skirts and end frames. The plans

show details. These grooves allow the

tabletop clips to connect to the

skirts. The other end of the clips

screw to the tabletop. Depending on

clip design, you’ll have to cut the

grooves 3 ⁄ 8 " or 1 ⁄ 2 " down from the

skirts’ top edges. Check your hard-

ware and adjust to suit.

Dry-fit the skirts, legs and end

frames now, and reassemble with

glue once you’re satisfied with the

fit. The framework should be

square and flat before setting it

aside to dry. Put the structure on a

flat floor, leg-bottoms down, then

measure and equalize diagonal

measurements taken across the top,

outside corners of the legs. When

diagonals are equal in length, the

frame will be square. Complete the

Bring Together the

Legs and Skirts

Make the two side skirts by cutting

them to size and preparing 1 ⁄ 2 " x 1 ⁄ 2 " x

5 1 ⁄ 2 " tenons on each end. You’ll find a

tablesaw or table-mounted router

the best tools for this job. But before

drop-leaf hinging: not as easy as it looks

It’s no coincidence that many drop-leaf tabletops

don’t operate smoothly. That’s because there’s more

to drop-leaf hinge installation than meets the eye. If

you simply cut mortises and install hinges as usual,

your table leaves won’t operate smoothly. There are

two secrets to success.

The first is the need to install hinges so their cen-

tre of rotation is 1 ⁄ 32 " towards the leaf side. This

moves the leaf away from the tabletop as it tilts

down, assuring freedom from friction.

The second secret has to do with the hinge pins

up-and-down location relative to the curvature of

the routed profile on the table edge. The plans show

how the centrepoint of the hinge pins Gary used

must be slightly less than 1 ⁄ 2 " down from the top of

the rounded tabletop edge. This 1 ⁄ 2 " figure varies

depending on the radius of the router bits used to

cut the interlocking table edge details. A larger bit,

say 3 ⁄ 4 " radius, would require the hinge pin be locat-

ed slightly less than 3 ⁄ 4 " from the top of the curve.

Take a look at the plans for details.

But even with these details in mind, there’s no

substitute for practice. When you rout the edges of

your tabletop and leaves, mill the same interlocking

profile on some scrap. When it comes time for hinge

installation, take a few practice shots. There’s noth-

ing like experience to boost your confidence and

increase the quality of your work. —Steven Maxwell

plans for leaf table

1 1 / 4 " wide x 3" long

drop leaf hinges

DRAWER GUIDE

DETAIL

outside corner

moulding

long drawer

frame member

table top

leaf

WEDGE DETAIL

wedge

1" L-bracket

3 / 4 "

/ 8 "

drawer

top guide

/ 2 " x 1 / 2 " x 5 1 / 2 "

tenon

long end

frame member

drawer

guides

drawer

stop

skirt

short

drawer frame member

long

drawer frame

member

wedge glued

to underside of leaf

swing arm

10 3 / 4 "

beading strips

short end

frame member

21"

3 3 / 4 "

leg

DRAWER BOX DETAILS

drawer front

frame by adding bullnose beading

to the bottom edges of the side

skirts, between the legs.

A 14-volt cordless drill has plenty of power to drill the pilots and drive the screws

for the support-wing hinges (shown here) and the special drop-leaf hinges

Build the Drawer and Frame

The drawers rest on a frame inside

the table. Cut the long and short

drawer frame parts you’ll need and

assemble them with two #8 x 2 1 ⁄ 2 "

screws per corner and glue. The

rectangle should measure 7 ⁄ 8 " x 11 1 ⁄ 4 "

x 40" when you’re done. Fasten the

drawer stop strip across the top of

this frame, using one screw at each

intersection point, as shown in the

plans. Slide the frame into position

from underneath the table, butting

the drawer frame’s ends to the

inside faces of the lower end frames.

Secure the drawer frame to the end

frame with screws, counterbored to

accept tapered wooden plugs. Be

sure the drawer frame is centred

between the side skirts. You can now

strengthen the assembly by fasten-

ing the drawer stop strip to the side

skirts with a pair of 1" L-brackets.

Although the drawers are sup-

ported on the frame you just

installed, drawer travel is guided by

two pieces of commercially milled

outside corner moulding nailed to

the top of the frame. Cut and install

these four drawer guides now, out-

side edges flush with the outside

edges of the drawer frame. Silky

drawer action depends on smooth

guide surfaces, so spend some time

sanding. Applying a finish to these

guides later will make the drawers

work even better.

Measure the space between draw-

er guides and build a pair of drawer

boxes to suit. The size in the mate-

rials list is theoretically correct, but

you should custom-build drawers

for your table. Aim for a 1 ⁄ 16 " total

side-to-side clearance between

drawer and guide. Any less and you

run the risk of drawers sticking in

humid weather; any more and the

drawers could wobble as they move.

Complete the drawers by making

the two drawer faces and cutting

25° bevels on their edges. The outer

edge of each face should measure

1 ⁄ 2 " thick. Wait until later to join the

drawer boxes and faces.

part material size qty

Legs oak 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" x 29" 4

Long end frame members oak 7/8" x 2" x 13" 4

Short end frame members oak 7/8" x 2" x 4 1/4" 4

Beading oak 1/4" x 1" x 16' (total length required) 1

Side skirts oak 7/8" x 6" x 41" 2

Long drawer frame members oak 7/8" x 1 1/4" x 40" 2

Short drawer frame members oak 7/8" x 1 1/4" x 8 3/4" 2

Drawer stop oak 7/8" x 1" x 14 7/8" 1

Drawer guides outside corner moulding 3/4" x 3/4" x 20 5/8" 4

Tabletop oak 7/8" x 20 1/2" x 48" 1

Leaves oak 7/8" x 8 1/2" x 48" 2

Drawer top guide oak 7/8" x 1 1/8" x 40" 1

Swing arms oak 7/8" x 3" x 8" 4

Wedges oak 1/4" x 1" x 2" 4

Drawer boxes plywood 3 3/4"H x 10 3/4"W x 21"L 2

Drawer fronts oak 7/8" x 3 11/16" x 10 11/16" 2

Knobs oak 1 1/4" diameter 2

L-bracket metal 1" 2

Table legs: Woodturners Inc. (877-603-9663) TL-800-29. Support-arm hinges: 3" cabinet

hinges, National brand #N146-852. Drop-leaf hinges: Workshop Supply (800-387-5716)

4025-0125A. Tabletop clips: Lee Valley Tools (800-267-8767) 13K01.01

Recommended Power Tools: Tablesaw, Belt Sander, Table-mounted Router, Hand-held Drill,

Jigsaw, Bandsaw or Scrollsaw,Thickness Planer, Jointer

materials

Cabinet - Kitchen Island - Leaf Table.pdf

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