Build A Shower Cubicle.pdf

BUILD A SHOWER CUBICLE

Building a shower cubicle requires some experience in

carpentry and tiling. You also need a degree of expertise in

wiring and plumbing in order to install a shower unit.

By all means construct the shower cubicle yourself, but it is

safer to hire professionals if you are not competent to install

electrical wiring and plumbing.

A second shower is almost a necessity in a busy household.

It is rare to find a home these days that does not boast at

least one shower, but if you have a large family or

frequently entertain house guests, a second shower will take

the pressure off the bathroom. You could build a shower

cubicle into the corner of a bedroom, in a downstairs toilet

or utility room, or even under the stairs. And if space is

limited, there's no need to install a purpose-built cubicle -

just screen off the bath and fit a shower unit to the wall

above.

2 - Fitting a shower screen

The simplest way to screen

off a bath shower is to hang a

simple waterproof curtain

that is long enough to drape

inside the bath rim. However,

unless you remember t

the curtain against the w

each time you take a shower,

you always seem to end up

spraying the bathroom w

water. A rigid shower screen

overcomes the problem.

choose from. Some are

designed to shield just the end of the bath where the showe

is located (1). Others enclose the entire bath. To provide

access, complete screens have hinged or sliding doors (2).

Hinged screens take up space when open and need good

flexible seals.

o tuck

all

ith

There are various screen kits to

screws. Apply sealant behind the channel before tightening

up the screws, or run a bead of sealant down the joint after

fixing. Fit the glazed panel and seal between it and the bath

rim.

instructions, making sure you correctly install the seals

provided with the screen.

t a hinged or sliding screen following the manufacturer's

o erect a fixed screen, fasten the channel to the wall with

- Shower cubicles

Shower-cubicle components

come in practically every

combination imaginable, fro

self-contained cabinets to

screen panels for enclosing

alcoves, building into

or against a flat wall (3).

a corner

bi-fold doors are available t

fit all the various shaped

shower trays on the market

(4).

the house, must be at least 2.5m (8ft) from the nearest

electrical socket - move the socket if necessary.

shower cubicle, fitted in a bedroom or some other part of

taking into consideration the pipe runs for supply and was

Check also on the electrical-wiring requirements for

instantaneous electric showers and pumped power showers.

cide on the most convenient position for your shower,

te.

- Building a stud partition

You can incorporate any existing wall in

cubicle, provided it is sound enough to be lined with cer

tiles.

to your shower

amic

by building a stud partition to enclose the third side.

Measure your shower tray carefully to ensure you can make

a good fit all round. It is usually best to remove the skirtings

and, if necessary, hack off some of the plaster from the

existing walls. This will enable you to set the rim of the tray

into the walls to make a waterproof seal after tiling.

A stud partition provides a convenient wall on which to

is easy to construct an alcove in the corner of your room

mount the shower unit, because all the services can be r

within the frame.

onstruct the partition from 100 x 50mm (4 x 2in) softwood

A range of sliding, hinged and

d wit

similar-size piece of wood, known as a sole plate, screwed to

the floor. Nail them at the top to a head plate screwed to the

ceiling. Screw into the joists whenever possible. If need be,

fit timber bearers between the joists to provide fixing points.

h preservative. Erect four uprights nailed to a

similar-size piece of wood, known as a sole plate, screwed to

the floor. Nail them at the top to a head plate screwed to the

ceiling. Screw into the joists whenever possible. If need be,

fit timber bearers between the joists to provide fixing points.

Fix noggings between the

uprights to stiffen the frame,

- Fitting the shower tray

Shower trays are usually

om moulded plastic or

made fr

are cast with a gel coat. Mo

trays have an integral side

skirt that is made to stand on

the floor. Others have a

wooden or metal underframe

fitted with adjustable feet

(6). A separate plinth panel

fitted to this type of showe

tray to conceal the

to the waste system.

underframe and provide access

The most imp

ortant aspect when fitting a tray is to ensure

at the tray is level and that it is correctly bedded down.

anufacturers generally suggest a sand/cement mix of 5:1.

This is to ensure that the tray is fully supported and also

helps with levelling.

The next issue to add

ress is whether or not the tray will

eed raising off the floor. This will depend on w er

stallation is onto a timber or solid/restricted access floor. If

heth

it is a timber floor, there should be sufficient room to allo

for the waste, trap and pipework. If the floor is solid or there

is restricted access, a plinth will need to be constructed

which is capable of accommodating the trap which is to be

used.

treated with preservative. Erect four uprights nailed to a

but leave a clear path for th

plumbing (and wiring) down

the centre (5).

epipe must have sufficient fall (slope) for the water

roperly. Access must be provided in order to clean

ut the shower trap.

e wast

drain p

You can fit a shallow-seal

trap (7) when draining into a

two-pipe waste system, but if

If this gives you problems with clearance under e shower

fit a deep-seal running trap in the pipe run. Cut an

ccess hatch in the floor.

tray,

Some traps have a twist-out grille that provides access to

detachable chamber for removing blockage

ttach a 40mm (1.5in) plastic wastepipe to the trap

wastepipe can be run through the wall and dischar

he hopper head of a two-pipe

. The

ged into

waste system, or you can

connect the pipe directly to the soil pipe of a single-stack

drainage system.

Try to run the wast

epipe between the floor joist roviding

fficient fall - 6mm (1/4in) for every 300mm (1ft) run -

therwise you may have to build a support frame to raise

s, p

the shower tray to a higher level. If this results in the rim of

the shower tray being more than 225mm (9in) above the

floor, you should construct a step to provide safe access to

the cubicle.

Having establ

ished the exit point for the wastep e, use a

ower drill fitted with a core bit to bore a hole t ugh the

all of the house.

hro

Connect an elbow to

the end of the pipe to discharge water

to a hopper. Use a pipe boss to join the waste to a

lastic soil pipe. Mark where the shower waste meets the

pipe

soil pipe and cut a hole of the appropriate size, using a hole

saw. Smooth the edge of the hole with abrasive paper.

you are connecting directly

a soil pipe you must use a

deep-seal trap.

6 - The waste system

Following the manufacturer's

instructions, apply solvent

cement to the joint and strap

the boss in place (8).

When the cement has set, push the rubber seal into the boss

and insert the wastepipe.

7 - Joining plastic wastepipes

Domestic wastepipe systems are lightweight and easy to

assemble. The pipes come in standard lengths and in three

sizes - 32mm (1.25in) diameter for washbasins, and 40mm

(1.5in) for sink, bath and shower wastes. A 21mm (3/4in)

pipe is also made for cistern overflows. The metric sizes

refer to outside diameters, the imperial sizes to inside.

When buying plastic pipes and fittings make sure they are

compatible - there may be slight variations in size between

the ranges. For even the simplest run of wastepipe, you will

have to fit joints that enable the pipe to change direction. A

range of straight connectors, bends or elbows, T-joints and

adapters are available for joining straight lengths of

wastepipe and for connecting pipe to appliances.

Joints are connected to the pipe using various methods:

A welded joint (9) is made by applying a solvent cement to

the mating parts just before the joint is assembled. The

solvent softens the plastic, causing it to fuse together and

create a waterproof seal. Welded joints are best for

inaccessible pipe runs.

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